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I have two 55W generic lamps that I want to mount on the rear of the roof rack. I want an independant switch, not patched into reverse.

Will this work? I want to minimize cable runs from the rear to the front. In this diagram, I will have a single power lead from the battery and the positive coming off of the switch. I don't want to have all the ground wires and such up front as well.

1) Can I put the relay in the rear jack compartment somewhere?
2) Can I combine the two positive wires on the lights into the one relay post?
3) Are there problems if I don't ground everything in the engine compartment?
4) Do I need to add fuses with a relay?

Also, let me know of any problems with this in any way. I'm a wiring rookie.

 

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1) Can I put the relay in the rear jack compartment somewhere?
2) Can I combine the two positive wires on the lights into the one relay post?
3) Are there problems if I don't ground everything in the engine compartment?
4) Do I need to add fuses with a relay?
1) Sure, I've got one or two back in there.
2) Sure, that's not a problem at all. Just make sure the connections are solid and the wire is sized appropriately and you'll be fine.
3) No, but there will be problems if you don't ground everything properly. Just make sure your grounding point is solid (I believe there's a bolt you can use back there in the jack compartment) and you'll be 'seeing the light.' :lol:
4) Always. Fuse as close to the source as possible (so if your battery is the source, fuse close to the battery -- not in the jack compartment). Fuse your positive coil line to the relay as well (usually this is taken care of with an add-a-circuit if you're going into the fuse box).
 

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Certainly a workable solution, but I'd suggest this for the ultimate flexability in rear lighting choices:

SPDT (center off) switch

reverse lamp wire---------------> 1

to lighting relay <---------------- 2

+12 switched from "tap"---------> 3

Using a SPDT (center off) switch lets you put the lights on manually (3), have them come on in reverse only (1), or have them off all the time (center).
 

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:bigthumb:Good thought Steve
 

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Heck yea, that's an excellent idea! I second that motion. I might just have to do that myself... :bigthumb:
 

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Careful guys - off road is ok but many states have restrictions on both height and wattage for reverse lights.

Having them tied into the reverse lights so they come on whenever you put it in reverse can be a pretty good ticket, especially if the cop is sitting behind you when you slap it into reverse :D
 

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Careful guys - off road is ok but many states have restrictions on both height and wattage for reverse lights.

Having them tied into the reverse lights so they come on whenever you put it in reverse can be a pretty good ticket, especially if the cop is sitting behind you when you slap it into reverse :D

That is precisely why I used the switch described in my earlier post! (well, that and the benefit of having the manual switch to "flash" the tailgaters :ninja:)
 

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That is precisely why I used the switch described in my earlier post! (well, that and the benefit of having the manual switch to "flash" the tailgaters :ninja:)
We think alike! :flame: :lol:

KD7NAC_07FJ, I'd honestly leave them off unless specifically needed. In most situations, I can't see the need for all that wattage back there!
 

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We think alike! :flame: :lol:

KD7NAC_07FJ, I'd honestly leave them off unless specifically needed. In most situations, I can't see the need for all that wattage back there!

I do use mine on the trail but at night behind the hanger gets really dark and it sits on top of a hill so backing up can be "interesting" :) I definitely use the overhead rear lights often just not on public roads.

Oh and flashing tailgaters will definitely get you a very expensive ticket if you get caught. I believe it is even a criminal offense in WA. The best action for a tailgater - pull over.
 

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Because I need a picture for everything I do, I decided to draw up a diagram for wiring the SPDT switch.
 

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