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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone!

I have been reading online for the last 16 hours about audio setups for the FJ. I have a 2007 with the speakers in the dash, door and the crap in the ceiling. I know to disconnect the junk in the ceiling, and I have a pretty good idea of what I'm putting back in the doors and dash. I just can't figure out what amp I need. I have already replaced the factory HU with a Pioneer AVH-P3200BT Something I've had for the last 4-5 years from another vehicle. I have decided on the following speakers.

Infinity Reference 3002CFX 3-1/2" Two Way Car LoudSpeakers in the dash (Mids/Highs?).

Infinity Reference 9632cf 6x9-Inch, 300-Watt High Performance Two-Way Loudspeaker for the doors (Low/Mids?).

2 Polk Audio DB840 8 inch Voice Coil Subwoofers to be mounted in sealed boxes on both sides of the cargo area.

Please bear in mind that I know very little about all of this and am trying to piece together everything I have read today. I trying to spend as little as possible but still get a decent bang for my buck. Thank you in advance for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have 2 Audiobahn AW800 subwoofers already but the foam surrounds are cracked on both of them. I have been unable to find anything that's even close to fitting them. I may find the closest size I can to the original and try to fix them vs buying new ones.


Product Type:Subwoofer driver - For car - wired
Speaker SystemNominal (RMS) Output Power:300 Watt
Speaker Type:passive
Speaker Diameter:8"
Magnet Type:Strontium
Sensitivity:89.8 dB
Nominal Impedance:2/8 Ohm
Response Bandwidth:34 - 1000 Hz
Speaker System DetailsDriver Details:Car subwoofer driver : 1 x subwoofer driver - 8"
Speakers Included:Car subwoofer driver - 8" - 300 Watt - 34 - 1000 Hz - 2/8 Ohm - wired
Cutout & Mounting DimensionsDiameter:8.5 in
Depth:4.2 in
 

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another option in the dash is just using tweeters only , the brand is fine, other options is getting a 2 way component speakers system since you just getting front speakers and want a sub, which BTW you just need one good sub (you don't need back speakers) lets figure out your speaker/sub set-up first then we can talk about amps, in which case a 3 channel amp is looking like what you need , look at this JL XD500/3

XD500/3v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

JL Audio XD500/3 500W 3-Channel Class D XD Series System Car Audio Amplifier at Onlinecarstereo.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
another option in the dash is just using tweeters only , the brand is fine, other options is getting a 2 way component speakers system since you just getting front speakers and want a sub, which BTW you just need one good sub (you don't need back speakers) lets figure out your speaker/sub set-up first then we can talk about amps, in which case a 3 channel amp is looking like what you need , look at this JL XD500/3

XD500/3v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

JL Audio XD500/3 500W 3-Channel Class D XD Series System Car Audio Amplifier at Onlinecarstereo.com
I was wondering about running the doors on separate channels from the dash to have more control over the highs, mids and lows. I wasn't planning on using rear speakers due to the advice you had given in other threads. Will components raise the soundstage up off of the floor better than using 2 separate coaxial speakers wired separately? Thank you for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have 2 Audiobahn AW800 subwoofers already but the foam surrounds are cracked on both of them. I have been unable to find anything that's even close to fitting them. I may find the closest size I can to the original and try to fix them vs buying new ones.


Product Type:Subwoofer driver - For car - wired
Speaker SystemNominal (RMS) Output Power:300 Watt
Speaker Type:passive
Speaker Diameter:8"
Magnet Type:Strontium
Sensitivity:89.8 dB
Nominal Impedance:2/8 Ohm
Response Bandwidth:34 - 1000 Hz
Speaker System DetailsDriver Details:Car subwoofer driver : 1 x subwoofer driver - 8"
Speakers Included:Car subwoofer driver - 8" - 300 Watt - 34 - 1000 Hz - 2/8 Ohm - wired
Cutout & Mounting DimensionsDiameter:8.5 in
Depth:4.2 in
I think that I am going to have to buy new subs as I'm unable to find replacement surrounds due to their odd size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
another option in the dash is just using tweeters only , the brand is fine, other options is getting a 2 way component speakers system since you just getting front speakers and want a sub, which BTW you just need one good sub (you don't need back speakers) lets figure out your speaker/sub set-up first then we can talk about amps, in which case a 3 channel amp is looking like what you need , look at this JL XD500/3

XD500/3v2 - Car Audio - Amplifiers - XD - JL Audio

JL Audio XD500/3 500W 3-Channel Class D XD Series System Car Audio Amplifier at Onlinecarstereo.com
I was thinking about running the door speakers and the dash speakers on separate channels so I could control the highs, mids and lows appropriately, plus I wanted to get the raise the soundstage up a bit so it wasn't on the floor. Since you are suggesting components I will assume my line of thinking was incorrect. I am not going to use rear speakers due to your advice on other threads about them. Fire away with your ideas. I am on a budget of around $500.00, less preferably to keep the wife off of my back.
 

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Your other post didn't show up on the speakers /amp? But yeah you could do that run 2 channels to the 6x9s and 2 channels to the dash speakers a use the crossover points on the amp to adjust for the highs in the dash but you would need a 5 channel amp then if you used a sub , look at a JL 10 W3 sub , I like the 2 way components speakers idea better though
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have made 3 posts on here that haven't posted yet quoting my intentions. I can't see it but it looks like you have it. So what components, sub and amp would you recommend ZoSoIV? I see your recommendations for and amp and sub but is that based off of my original idea or your component idea?
 

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The JL are a little more flater natural sounding speaker where as the Focals have a brighter tweeter and better SQ and the Image Dymanics are are a really accurate speaker with very good SQ and loud

 

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I like the Focals but lean more toward the Image Dynamics if i had to pick between the two , now the higher end Focal are a different story which i have Focal 165 KRX3, 3 way components, mine vvv

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you NW FJC, I will give them a call. I did find something about rubberizing the foam since it's not dry rotted, just cracking. I may give it a try first.


ZoSoIV I saw that picture in another post of yours and I have to say that I am jealous. I'm not sure I could give $200.00 for them, but man they're nice. I looked at the Image Dynamics but found a few reviewers that had problems with poor performance and build quality. If you say that they are good I will go with them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here is the link for the DIY repair I mentioned in the previous post. My subs aren't dry rotted to the point that they are falling apart, They are cracked just above where the connect to the cone with a few 1/8-1/4 holes in the same areas. I figure that it's worth a shot and if it works then I have saved some money.

Cracking foam surround patching help! - diyAudio

Post #5

I am not a professional speaker repair person, but I did not want to hassle with finding and replacing the surrounds, and I wanted to hear my new speakers right away! The high end was OK, but the woofer surrounds were in pieces, but still holding the cone in alignment. It was an odd value 28 ohm woofer with rotten foam, so I figured it was going to take awhile to find and get a replacement, so I elected to try a repair first, and then start the search for a replacement. (that was 1 1/2 years ago)

3M makes a black contact cement adhesive for door trim. The black is nice since it blends in somewhat with the original colors. I was able to buy it at an industrial supply in a medium size tube. It was recommended somewhere, maybe a speaker vendor, as the best adhesive to glue rubber surrounds to polypropylene cone material. Search for Dynaudio surrounds. Someone, somewhere mentioned the door trim adhesive. Most just said the white glue was OK but it does not seem to adhere well to the poly cone material.

I diluted the contact cement with MEK, in small batches, maybe a teaspoon or so, and then with a small model brush, painted the mix onto the foam. Eventually, after a few applications, on both sides, the surround was basically now rubber. The first coat was diluted quite a bit, and it soaked in. When the first coat dried, there was a noticeable improvement in the strength of the foam. Towards the last coats I did not dilute as much - just enough to allow smooth brushing.

The foam in my case was so bad that the weight of the wet adhesive would cause additional breakthroughs. Several of the real bad spots I laminated on a single thickness of cheesecloth, to hold it together till the first layer of adhesive set. I suppose patches of very thin similar foam would also work, maybe better.

The end result does not look great, and it had to change the characteristics, but mine was down firing. It seems to sound fine. Someday it will be properly repaired or replaced.
If your foam is in better shape, a single application may be enough, and not add to much additional weight. It shouldn't hurt anything, and is cheap, and I can still remove the repaired surround if I find one that is a perfect fit, or piece one close in size together, so not much to loose except a 9.00 tube of adhesive, which you will need anyway if you have poly cones, and a bit of time. It actually was completed during one weekend, so went pretty quick.
good luck,
Dave

Post #7

Here is the stuff.
It is actually Loctite 30540. I got the MEK at the local hardware store.
Judging by the condition of my "repair" after 1 1/2 years, I would say it is going to hold up for quite some time. The rotten foam is basically encapsulated by the rubber. You might also try regular contact cement like "Goo" from a hobby shop, but some products may remain tacky. This stuff feels like rubber when dry.

Loctite® Black Contact Adhesive, distributed by R.S. Hughes - Industrial Distributor - Tapes, Adhesives, Abrasives, Safety, and Electronic Products
( I actually used this Loctite product)


Shop 3M: 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive, 08008, 5 oz tube, Black
(this is probably the same stuff by 3M, and I found it listed in auto parts shops)


Post #11

I ran into this problem a number of years ago. After much investigation, I ended up using modified acrylic latex caulk from the hardware store. If I recall correctly, it was DAP brand, though I’m not 100% certain which one I used. DAP ALEX PLUS Clear would seem a likely candidate.

The material I used was milky white as a liquid but dries essentially transparent on the surround. Add enough water to thin (not too thick, you want the solution to penetrate the foam), then paint the surround repeatedly with thin coats allowing sufficient tine to dry between applications. If accessible, do the back side of the surround also. The result is a tough, flexible film which impregnates the deteriorating foam. I used this method on several Infinity subwoofers which are still in daily use some eight years later.

Not having performed any before or after measurements, I can’t document any changes to the driver performance, but empirically speaking, the coating does not appear to have significantly altered the drivers parameters.

Keith
 

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