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I've seen these floating around the forum and various people have mentioned they are buying them on ebay and at home depot.
Nut Tool accessory Clamp Household hardware Tool


I have walked the aisles at the HD and Lowe's (not that I cataloged every item and memorized it's location) but I did not see anything resembling them and I have no idea what to ask for.

Anybody?
 

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I doubt HD or lowes will have CNC machined aluminum bar clamps at varying thicknesses.

I found some on ebay and some listed on webpages. The addy's are on my work computer though. All of them were 10 bucks. And yes, these will support the weight of the hi-lift. Make sure you buy all stainless steel hardware. I bet the bolts that secure the clamp should be replaced with SS as well.
 

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Maybe I misunderstood and they are just buying the carriage bolts or wingnuts locally?
Yes, the hardware can be bought locally. I have not seen the clamps at any store in my area. I believe they are built to be used to hang lead ballast in vehicles. That is what i was told when i inquired to a vendor selling these on ebay.

I don't know where you can find a bolt that doesn't have a head on it. (so that the hi-lift can slide on) I would just take a regular bolt, loctite that sucker in place, then hacksaw off the end of it.
 

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I know you can get threaded rod and I guess weld it in there or loctite or whatever.

Thanks for the help. I will search the fleabay.
Oh, that would work better than the hacksaw:cheers:

I would worry about trying to weld SS to aluminum. Loctite is cheap and easy. i just did a quick search. Scroll down the page and you have some options
aluminum racing clamp, Parts Accessories, eBay Motors items on eBay.com

i am 95% sure the FJ roof rack is 1.75" in diameter.
 

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I've bought them a couple of times off of the ebay vendor. She gives very fast service and the clamps are awesome! She was giving free shipping of you buy $50 worth. You have to call to get that tho...

cheers,

dale
 

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I have those and haven't even bothered with the Loctite. Once you cut the threaded rod to length, screw it into the clamp, then add the "spacer" (looks like a very long nut) and just tighten that down good (with a wrench). I've used mine for two trail runs now and they haven't come loose. The tension between the clamp threads and the spacer threads keeps it all in place.

The spacers are at Home Depot right next to the threaded rod. Stainless steel is a good idea for the spacers, washers and wing nuts, although I'm not sure if you'll find SS threaded rod.

I sanded the sharp edges of my clamps to reduce scratches on my roof rack (the coating of which scratches pretty easily). I've also experimented with lining the clamps with tape (electrical and Gorilla) and most recently sprayed them with rubberized undercoating. None of those has really accomplished much functionally, but I actually really like the look of having the entire clamp/spacer/rod with the nice even black texture.
 

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Can anyone confirm the diameter of the stock rack? Nothing against you layonn just want to be sure.
The OEM roof rack is 1 3/4" or 1.75" for sure because the clamps are 1.75" and they fit snuggly on the roof rack tubing.:bigthumb:
 

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I have those and haven't even bothered with the Loctite. Once you cut the threaded rod to length, screw it into the clamp, then add the "spacer" (looks like a very long nut) and just tighten that down good (with a wrench). I've used mine for two trail runs now and they haven't come loose. The tension between the clamp threads and the spacer threads keeps it all in place.
I think we are talking about different places to put Loctite. I am referring to where the threaded rod inserts into the clamp. I believe you are talking about where the wingnut goes.

Can anyone confirm the diameter of the stock rack? Nothing against you layonn just want to be sure.
How dare you!? :lol: just kidding, no worries.

I don't have the best memory in the world.
 

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The rack is 1.75" tube.

The aluminum piece that clamps onto the bar is called a "weight clamp" and although they can be had on ebay, you might as well check any supplier that sells to sprint car builders. That's what they're made for... tube-chassis home build racers. Lead weights are bolted to the underside of the frame in order to stabilize and lower the center of gravity on these lightweight cars. 1.75" tube is a common tube size for their frames.

Forget the all-thread rod. Get a socket head set screw. The hole in the weight clamp is for a 1/2-13 bolt and you can get a 1/2-13 socket head set screw that's 1.5-2" long. Then get a 1/2-13 wingnut and you're done.

Lowes or Home Depot will have all-thread, but Ace Hardware locations are much better for various connectors. They're more likely to have a socket head set screw in that size.

If you don't mind putting a nick in the paint on your roof rack, then assemble the set screw into the hole loosely, put the partially assembled brackets with set screws and wing nuts onto your Hi-Lift as a template, and then tighten the clamps onto the rack. Next, remove the Hi-Lift and use allen wrenches to tighten the clamps and then drive the set screw down. Once it bites metal, it will both stabilize the stud AND help stabilize the bracket against twisting. No Loctite is needed... unless you want to.
 

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I think we are talking about different places to put Loctite. I am referring to where the threaded rod inserts into the clamp. I believe you are talking about where the wingnut goes.
I was talking about the same location. I've found that once you tighten down the "spacer" nut with a wrench, it locks the threaded rod into the clamp just fine.
 
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