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You sure about that? Adding a spacer above or below the spring will cause the piston inside the shock to move proportionally. Making it's neutral postion closer to either the top or bottom of the shock housing. If your shocks can't account for that offset you'll still max it out.
I believe that you are right. I need to put a slightly longer shock on the truck. I hear a clicking noise regularly now when I change direction or turn. One short click and then nothing more. I have a feeling it is coming from my maxed out rear shock since it began after I lifted the vehicle. Any thoughts on all that?
 

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You sure about that? Adding a spacer above or below the spring will cause the piston inside the shock to move proportionally. Making it's neutral postion closer to either the top or bottom of the shock housing. If your shocks can't account for that offset you'll still max it out.
If you're talking spring isolator type spacer, then it will change the piston valve position, because the at this point the top and bottom of the shock is still attached to the original mounting point on the truck. This almost simulate adding longer spring to a shock to get the lift, therefore you will need a longer shock absorber to accomodate the changes in the shock valve position. If you're using a spacer lift that attached to the top of the shock mount (top-hat), then the shock valve will change very little, as the lift is borrowed from the added spacer, sort of like changing the top suspension mounting point down 2" to get the lift. So the difference between the two types of spacer lift do have some differences on the shock length. I thought he has the spacer lift that goes on top of the shock mount and not the spring isolator type. :)
 

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If you're talking spring isolator type spacer, then it will change the piston valve position, because the at this point the top and bottom of the shock is still attached to the original mounting point on the truck. This almost simulate adding longer spring to a shock to get the lift, therefore you will need a longer shock absorber to accomodate the changes in the shock valve position. If you're using a spacer lift that attached to the top of the shock mount (top-hat), then the shock valve will change very little, as the lift is borrowed from the added spacer, sort of like changing the top suspension mounting point down 2" to get the lift. So the difference between the two types of spacer lift do have some differences on the shock length. I thought he has the spacer lift that goes on top of the shock mount and not the spring isolator type. :)
PM'd you
 

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If you're talking spring isolator type spacer, then it will change the piston valve position, because the at this point the top and bottom of the shock is still attached to the original mounting point on the truck. This almost simulate adding longer spring to a shock to get the lift, therefore you will need a longer shock absorber to accomodate the changes in the shock valve position. If you're using a spacer lift that attached to the top of the shock mount (top-hat), then the shock valve will change very little, as the lift is borrowed from the added spacer, sort of like changing the top suspension mounting point down 2" to get the lift. So the difference between the two types of spacer lift do have some differences on the shock length. I thought he has the spacer lift that goes on top of the shock mount and not the spring isolator type. :)
Sorry, early in the morning.. discription is a bit fuzzy..lol Let me try to put some visual on the differences on the two types. Try to visualize both..
Spring Isolator Spacer Lift - You add a spacer either on top or bottom of the spring. What will happen to the shock? It extends its overall length as the shock is being pulled further apart to accommodate the added length to the spring. Now since the overall length of the original shock from end to end is now longer as a complete assembly, this is where you get the lift. The down side of this, it affects the stroke length effectiveness. The stock shock casing and piston rod is calculated to work within certain range of the stock suspension travel and not intended to accommodate the added length, thus you're at threat of the shock to bottom out. This lift system does achieve what a buyer is looking for, a lift, but when your suspension travel moves beyond the intended shock travel length, this is where bottoming out would occur. If you mostly drive on city streets or hwy this might be ok, but god forbid if you hit a pothole or big speed bump or when vehicle leans during moderate to sharp cornering, you may very well bottoming out your shock.
Top-Hat Spacer Lift - Try to visualize taking your shock assembly out and bolt up a spacer on top of it. Not at the spring, but the very top of the shock assembly. Now the overall length has change, but not the same as the isolator type. The end to end length has changed, but physically the original shock length stays the same, it’s the mounting point from end to end has changed due to the added spacer on top of the original shock assembly, this is where you get the lift. Now, you still get the shocks full travel, but now you’re limited by the limits of your upper and lower ball joint movement.
Both types achieve the “lift” one want to achieve, but best to think about how you plan to drive and use your FJ. I hope this helps! :)
 
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