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Discussion Starter #1
After years of talking about rear bumper options with others and with my fellow wheeler and fabricator buddy Mat, he finally took on the change of designing and fabricating something that would incorporate

- Improved Ground Clearance
- Improved Approach angles
- Incorporated Tailor Hitch
- Integrated swing out with the rear door
- Relocate spare tire to swing out
- Mount 2 (5gal) fuel cans
and much more

Here are a few photos the Prototype bumper after our final fitting before sending it out to get powder coated. Next is to finalize the mounting of the spare tire and fuel cans on the swing out.

CLICK here for full details






 

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Good idea.
 

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Been done before and I love it, but a mass produced cheaper option would be the sparkling unicorn shizznit!
 

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Good idea. But, I would consider a sloped plate of some sort under the spare tire. Wouldn't want the tire to be hung up when 4wheeling and damage the rear door.
The tire will be on the swing out^^^. :D
 

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I like, nice sleek bumper. Just a few questions..

1) will the backup sensors work with it?

2) are you going to make one without the swing out option? may be an antenna mount instead?

3) how does chopping the rear frame affect pull strength. are those holes where the bumper will mount?

4) apart from the frame chop are there any other modifications needed for this to fit?

5) what's your estimate on price?


ps: nice to see one made in Canada.
 

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so you cut the end of the frame off or are you just shortening it?
Good question on the frame chop, do you re weld a crossbeam? the last option I saw re welded the square tube on the chop for structural strength. Can you tell I'm excited about this? hahhaha
 

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Good question on the frame chop, do you re weld a crossbeam? the last option I saw re welded the square tube on the chop for structural strength. Can you tell I'm excited about this? hahhaha
No clue really act more excited next time LMFAO :rofl:
 

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Looks good!

Just remember, the rear cross member is an important structural component of the frame, and it's not just a bumper liner. It's part of the resistance to frame twist.

I think it's a great idea to chop it and move it forward... you just have to make sure to replace it with something equally structural, and perhaps a bit moreso since it's closer in and may have less leverage against twist.

Frankly, a good bumper build is going to be much stronger than a thin cross member, so if you make a beefy bumper that bolts to even a light cross member, I bet you end up stronger than you started.
 

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I always wanted to bob the rear frame on my FJ, my buddy James bobbed his 6". I could not do it as I use mine to display bumpers that bolt on a stock FJ. I am interested to see how it all comes out.

If you plan to repeat this process on other rigs I would suggest one change. I would bob the frame first, for conversation lets say 6". Weld the cross member back in. I would knock out the OEM weld nuts and weld back in washers and nuts for a more available hardware, I welded in 1/2-13 grade 8 while it is apart.

If you do this you have a repeatable process. Those 6 mounting points in the center will do you well. You could also cut in a 2" reveiver while you have it off the rig. No matter how you set it up, it is the same on every rig, you know where the bolt holes will be. AND you can sell it.

Good luck with it:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
so you cut the end of the frame off or are you just shortening it?
shortened the bottom




I like, nice sleek bumper. Just a few questions..

1) will the backup sensors work with it?

2) are you going to make one without the swing out option? may be an antenna mount instead?

3) how does chopping the rear frame affect pull strength. are those holes where the bumper will mount?

4) apart from the frame chop are there any other modifications needed for this to fit?

5) what's your estimate on price?


ps: nice to see one made in Canada.
1) Yes the Backup sensors will still work
2) I can't see why he couldn't make one with out the swing out
3) Should have no affect on the pull strength, and no you can't see the mounting holes in any of the photos
4) We had to shorten the tail pipe as well
5) TBD but should be about the same ball park as some of the other options out there.

Looks good!

Just remember, the rear cross member is an important structural component of the frame, and it's not just a bumper liner. It's part of the resistance to frame twist.

I think it's a great idea to chop it and move it forward... you just have to make sure to replace it with something equally structural, and perhaps a bit moreso since it's closer in and may have less leverage against twist.

Frankly, a good bumper build is going to be much stronger than a thin cross member, so if you make a beefy bumper that bolts to even a light cross member, I bet you end up stronger than you started.
The bumper replaces the rear cross member and is much stronger.

I always wanted to bob the rear frame on my FJ, my buddy James bobbed his 6". I could not do it as I use mine to display bumpers that bolt on a stock FJ. I am interested to see how it all comes out.

If you plan to repeat this process on other rigs I would suggest one change. I would bob the frame first, for conversation lets say 6". Weld the cross member back in. I would knock out the OEM weld nuts and weld back in washers and nuts for a more available hardware, I welded in 1/2-13 grade 8 while it is apart.

If you do this you have a repeatable process. Those 6 mounting points in the center will do you well. You could also cut in a 2" reveiver while you have it off the rig. No matter how you set it up, it is the same on every rig, you know where the bolt holes will be. AND you can sell it.

Good luck with it:)
See the notes below from Mat that he posted up on MUD

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Hi all,
I don't own an FJ Cruiser but my buddy Drew does (I'm sure some of you know him). I've mostly done custom fab for 60 series but I was up to the challenge of giving Drew something that would stand up to his type of wheeling as well as be clean, strong and gain ground clearance.
The rear cross member has been removed and an additional several inches have been cut from the frame. The trailer hitch (class 5 equivalent) has been sucked up as high as it will go with extra reinforcements. Overall gain ended up being about 20* more on the back from the stock set up with the trailer hitch attached to the rear cross member - YES, 20 degrees more!

It's built tougher than any trail you'll take your truck on.

The main bumper is made from 1/4" steel bent with gussets, the frame mounts are 1/2" and the mounting system is done so it fits inside the frame and on the outside as well. That way it limits the amount of stress on the frame in pulling situations.
The outside wings are done out of 3/16" and reinforced in strategic places to handle sliding off rocks without doing damage to the body and still maximizing clearance.
The swing out is rated for 2000lbs. (the design on this is almost finished to hold a 35" tire and 2 fuel cans), and will have a double lock that is extremely easy to open (one finger) but safer then anything else out there. The swing out also gets linked to the rear door to control and simplify the opening of it.
Everything is designed to be sleek, complement the lines on the truck, be practical, simple, and most importantly be tough and increase clearance.
The prototype is almost finished and Drew will be putting it through hell at Moab this year.

Mat R.
 

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Good to see some Canadian content/fabricators.
Although I am not clear why the rear cross member is being cut. When I had my swingout made, it was not necessary and the departure angle is more than adequate...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Definitely like it.

What mounting points are you now using to attach?
Mounting system is done so it fits inside the frame and on the outside as well. Some new mounting holes need to be drilled.

Good to see some Canadian content/fabricators.
Although I am not clear why the rear cross member is being cut. When I had my swingout made, it was not necessary and the departure angle is more than adequate...
We have a few great fabricators in the Vancouver area that specialize in cruisers.

The cross member was removed to make room for the trailer hitch assembly, improve the clearance and departure angle.

Everyone's requirements are a little different, I know the normal departure angles are not adequate for a lot of the trails I have done and in talking with fellow FJ Cruiser owners I have wheeled with that this is something many of us where looking at options to improve.
 

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Just for reference
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
hot out of the oven and back from the powder coater. We will be mounting it for it's final time on Sunday and will post up photos once it's done.

Notes from the fabricator, Mat

these are just my crappy phone pics I'll be posting much nicer ones once it's done.
I have already started doing some revisions (sorry Drew). and will be raising the side wings to cover the plastic caps on the sides of the body. changing around a little of the mounting and the thickness of material being used to lower the weight a bit (by no means will the quality and durability be affected!) This one will be finished soon and I have another one soon to be in the works with the new revisions











http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=502904&stc=1&d=1300514584
 

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Nice!
 
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