[Vegas_Nick]

West Marine used to stock these in their stores as well.

 

[jakobreid]

ODU has discontinued this connector (spoke with them today). :flame:

Anyone have a solution? I thought about inserting pins w/ leads into the female connector, then silicone around it.

Who in burning hell would choose a one-off connector for a mass-produced vehicle? assinine.

 

[FJ Zilla 2011]

Okay I read thru this whole thread and have learned alot.

I currently have an '11 TT with OEM roof lights / air dam installed. The wiring / plug comes out of the roof next to the roof rack connection.

I am wanting to know switch to an LED bar type setup (3 separate LEDs that are daisychained together.)

What would be easiest way to proceed? In the end I think plugging the existing hole and wiring a new switch is what is going to be best. I don't want to run a new plug thru the existing hole incase it leaks.

 

[jakobreid]

Okay I read thru this whole thread and have learned alot.

I currently have an '11 TT with OEM roof lights / air dam installed. The wiring / plug comes out of the roof next to the roof rack connection.

I am wanting to know switch to an LED bar type setup (3 separate LEDs that are daisychained together.)

What would be easiest way to proceed? In the end I think plugging the existing hole and wiring a new switch is what is going to be best. I don't want to run a new plug thru the existing hole incase it leaks.

Let me know if you'd like to sell your air dam. I need that 2-pin male connector

 

[Briareos]

ODU has discontinued this connector (spoke with them today). :flame:

Anyone have a solution? I thought about inserting pins w/ leads into the female connector, then silicone around it.

Who in burning hell would choose a one-off connector for a mass-produced vehicle? assinine.

I also want to be able to go through the roof with the wiring, but have it "plugged in" rather than "passed through". After a lot of research, I am going to use switchcraft/conxall products, which are for harsh environment use:

Switchcraft : Sealed Circular Connectors 0.875" OD

Panel mount: 4182-4PG-3ES (size 12 contacts, 4 pin (male) with solder cup attachment, epoxy filled)
Cable connector: 3182-4SG-3DC (size 12 contacts, 4 socket (female) with solder cup, and multi-size daisy chain grommet)
Weather cap: 4295

Just placed my order with Mouser Electronics for the connector parts, so will see how this all comes together...

I would have preferred to use lemo connectors, but it is difficult to find a domestic distributor that has them in stock in the larger wire gauges...

 

[Baserock]

I also want to be able to go through the roof with the wiring, but have it "plugged in" rather than "passed through". After a lot of research, I am going to use switchcraft/conxall products, which are for harsh environment use:

Switchcraft : Sealed Circular Connectors 0.875" OD

Panel mount: 4182-4PG-3ES (size 12 contacts, 4 pin (male) with solder cup attachment, epoxy filled)
Cable connector: 3182-4SG-3DC (size 12 contacts, 4 socket (female) with solder cup, and multi-size daisy chain grommet)
Weather cap: 4295

Just placed my order with Mouser Electronics for the connector parts, so will see how this all comes together...

I would have preferred to use lemo connectors, but it is difficult to find a domestic distributor that has them in stock in the larger wire gauges...

Exactly what I was thinking. If you terminate to a waterproof connector, you don't have a path for the water to get inside the vehicle, plus if you want to unplug the lights you can.

Did these connectors arrive yet? I'm curious if you like them for this application. I know switchcraft makes good products.

 

[Briareos]

Exactly what I was thinking. If you terminate to a waterproof connector, you don't have a path for the water to get inside the vehicle, plus if you want to unplug the lights you can.

Did these connectors arrive yet? I'm curious if you like them for this application. I know switchcraft makes good products.

The connectors did arrive, and would probably serve the expected purpose. I am not very thrilled with them however, because the plastic seems rather thin around the flange area, and I am concerned about the small grip area on the sheetmetal of the roof. The plug end will end up being rather long, and if the plug is pulled sideways, it could easily bend the roof sheetmetal...

Here is a pic attached. I decided to use amphenol connectors instead (second pic attached). They are mil-spec, and look that way (perfect for anyone running an army green FJ), but I feel I can trust these no matter how much rain or solar load they receive...they also mount to the roof in a much more robust fashion (and I will be fabricating an additional internal backer plate using the rubber gasket as a pattern). I will remove the chain from the cap, which would only be used when the plug is not connected. A bit more discussion about these in my build thread, which also contains the Amazon links for the amphenol stuff...
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/member-build-ups/362386-briareoss-build-2-a-6.html#post5915594


When you start spec'ing out these connectors, you have many options. After thinking it through, I decided to use the female pins on the roof and male pins on the light harness side, that way when the lights are not plugged in, there is less chance of possibly shorting a hot pin to ground on the roof connector side.

Thanks
shawn