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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings all. I've been doing some recent upgrades to the audio in my 2007 FJ. My goal was to get all the modern features I needed, and improve the overall listening experience in the cabin. I had no desire for a competition audio setup, just something that sounds really good when I'm driving. I bought the truck with the factory Jammer system, complete with OEM subwoofer.

I started by adding a Kenwood double DIN reciever so I could have Bluetooth and SiriusXM; I used the ASWC adapter to keep the steering wheel controls working. Overall, it was a fairly drama-free installation. The sound improved noticeably just with the new head unit, mostly of the additional power, and because I could EQ back the mids and get rid of the "shouty-ness" from the 3 1/2 dash and pillar speakers. The bass through the factory sub was loud enough for ordinary listening, but was boomy and flabby. The OEM sub enclosure and internal amp leave a lot to be desired, but it is nice from a space standpoint... I wanted to see if a simple speaker upgrade could improve the situation. If not, I would go the whole way with a new enclosure and sub amp.

I tracked down this Dayton 8" sub from Parts Express... $29 plus shipping. I've had good experiences with their speakers in the past, and the specs looked like they could work with the factory enclosure. I wanted something with dual voice coils so I could use both halves of the wimpy factory sub amp inside the enclosure.

Dayton Audio SD215A-88 8" DVC Subwoofer

Installing it into the factory enclosure was easy. The push-on connectors for the negative wires were too small for the new sub tabs, so I clipped them off and crimped on some bigger connectors. Also, the mounting holes didn't line up, so I had to drill four new ones. Here's how it looks:


So how does it sound? Much better than the stock speaker! Most of the flab is gone, and the bass is much more punchy and defined. I'm still experimenting with EQ and whether or not to plug the ports and use it as a sealed enclosure, but right from the start it was a noticeable improvement over the factory speaker.

Now that the subwoofer flab is controlled, I'm noticing that the 6x9's in the door are also very flabby in the bass. I might try high-passing them, but it will probably be better overall to just trade out the speakers for something a little better.
 

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Anything other than the factory gear/speakers will be a lot better aftermarket 6x9s in the doors and you can use tweeters in the dash as an option to the 3-1/2 , sound deadening it the doors will make a HUGE difference also
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Any opinions on whether it's better to go with full-range coax speakers in the doors and dash, or components with the mid bass in the doors and the tweeter in the dash? As a general rule, I don't like to have the tweeter that far from the mid bass driver. On the other hand, the 3 1/2 inch full range speakers all look a lot less efficient that the comparable 6x9's that would go in the door, and that are wire in parallel. Typically 86-87dB for the 3 1/2 vs. 92-93dB for the 6x9.
 

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That's why I mention tweeters in the dash instead of the full range speakers . On the components you would need a amp the do it right, the head unit only just isn't enough power to run components and make them sound good and with components up front not sure that sub will cut it at the very least you would need a better enclosure so to do it right you would need a 3 channel amp to run the system 2 channels to run the components up front and 1 channel for the subwoofer
 

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Looks like a nice, inexpensive upgrade. Ive considered replacing the factory sub for some time. May have to go with one of these. I see its an 8 ohm dvc, I assume you bridged parallel? Any thoughts of bridging a 4ohm dvc? Should maximize the stock amp, but may be too much for it to handle.

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Parts Express has lots of great deals on Daytons

Nice to see cheap mods that actually work :bigthumb:
 

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My experience with the factory speakers and just replacing them was not so good. The issue is both the doors and dash are wired together meaning you have to use 8 ohm speakers. So mine sounded weak sauce since they didnt have enough power to run them. Otherwise you could try separates like ZOSO stated above. I think I went too high end and the demand for power to run them was too much. Maybe a less power hungry speaker with more efficiency would have been better like a 6 1/2" in the door and tweeters in the dash

TacoTunes makes adaptors for the 6 1/2" speakers. Most just reuse the mounts from the factory 6x9" to mount their new ones as its the cheapest option. I used TacoTunes set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like a nice, inexpensive upgrade. Ive considered replacing the factory sub for some time. May have to go with one of these. I see its an 8 ohm dvc, I assume you bridged parallel? Any thoughts of bridging a 4ohm dvc? Should maximize the stock amp, but may be too much for it to handle.

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I used the factory amp that is inside the enclosure. It takes the high level input from the rear speakers, and outputs two pairs of leads (one for each 2 ohm voice coil of the factory speaker). I have no idea how the amp is designed, but here's my guess... I'm assuming that it sums the input signals to mono. That cheap little amp doesn't look like it could swing much current, so I would be surprised if the 2 ohm factory voice coils were wired in parallel, for 1 ohm. More likely they are wired in series for 8 ohms.

I have the Dayton speaker hooked up exactly like the factory speaker was hooked up. If the amp outputs in series like I suspect, then it's seeing 16 ohms. If it outputs in parallel, it's seeing 4 ohms.

Update on the sound... this thing rocks. I'm actually kind of amazed at how good it sounds. I didn't put it in to wake up the neighborhood, but I'll say this. I had some hard rock on last night on my way to my beer league hockey game, turned up pretty loud. When I pulled up to the stop light, everyone around turned to look. For my needs, this is more than enough bass.
 

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I just replaced the factory 6x9 with Boston Pro's, full range, and bought another pair of Boston tweeters up on the dash. Used factory brackets and they actually angle them for pretty decent imaging and reflection. Wrapped the underside of the door speakers in those poly enclosures. Haven't missed my sub since.
 

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I just replaced the factory 6x9 with Boston Pro's, full range, and bought another pair of Boston tweeters up on the dash. Used factory brackets and they actually angle them for pretty decent imaging and reflection. Wrapped the underside of the door speakers in those poly enclosures. Haven't missed my sub since.
yeah if you use good aftermarket speaker you don't need the factory sub good call and just tweeters in the dash is the way to fly
 

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So much misinformation.

Factory sub amp is in fact two amps(basically stereo) so they use two small and cheap amps to double the power to the sub instead of needing a voltage boosting mono amp with expensive power supply(expensive for oem I mean) This is the cheapest way to get 50wrms.

The factory speakers are not 8 ohm in the door. They are 4 ohm Panasonic 6x9's and 8 ohm TWEETERS in the dash, The dash speakers have a 4.7uf capacitor on them making them work above 5000hz only. They are not simply wired in parallel. This is essentially no different to an every day 6x9 with a tweeter on top(coaxial) which just has the 4 ohm woofer running full range in most cases with a simple capacitor usually between 3.3uf and 6.8uf on the tweeter(which can be any impedance really)

Think of the factory door and dash speakers as a basic split system.
 

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I don't suppose you have a picture of where you ran the wires from the truck to the sub? I ordered the same sub as you and it's been about 10 years since I got out of car audio and don't remember how to hook this thing up. :bigthumb:
 

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If you take the factory sub out and look at it it is actually exactly like the one he suggests buying. I ordered the sub and installed it and it's a night and day difference. Took about 10 minutes to change it out.
 

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The link provided in the OP thread goes to a 4ohmDVC sub, not an 8 ohm. Is this right?
 

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Thanks. Any opinions on whether it's better to go with full-range coax speakers in the doors and dash, or components with the mid bass in the doors and the tweeter in the dash? As a general rule, I don't like to have the tweeter that far from the mid bass driver. On the other hand, the 3 1/2 inch full range speakers all look a lot less efficient that the comparable 6x9's that would go in the door, and that are wire in parallel. Typically 86-87dB for the 3 1/2 vs. 92-93dB for the 6x9.

Got pics of the Dayton sub install? Any wiring to do?
 
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