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I just installed this sub in my 07 FJ. Question..
So far it's not firing. Being an 8 Ohm speaker could there be an impedance issue? Did your install start up with no changes?
I soldered the connections.
 
I did this same drop in from PartsExpress. I just wired up all 4 wires. +/- for each side. I don't remember the colors for each wire but I believe the positive leads are slightly thicker.

I used wire quick slide connectors on mine. Once they were on, I tested before screwing the speaker back in place.

Check your wire connections and also make sure your subwoofer button is on. Before soldering them, I just electrical taped the connects just to see if the sub would work.

By the way, this sub wasn't as loud as the OEM but I just turned the bass a little higher. It sounds way better. To me it seemed this sub can hit a wider range of frequencies.
 
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By the way, this sub wasn't as loud as the OEM but I just turned the bass a little higher. It sounds way better. To me it seemed this sub can hit a wider range of frequencies.
What did you mean by this? Is it or is it not louder than the OEM sub? The wider range of frequencies makes sense but did you mean once you turned up the bass EQ it got louder? It's worded a little confusing. :lol:
 
By the way, this sub wasn't as loud as the OEM but I just turned the bass a little higher. It sounds way better. To me it seemed this sub can hit a wider range of frequencies.
What did you mean by this? Is it or is it not louder than the OEM sub? The wider range of frequencies makes sense but did you mean once you turned up the bass EQ it got louder? It's worded a little confusing.
Oops. That's correct. I turned the bass EQ up on the head unit. I'm guessing the 8ohm coil vs the 2ohm (stock sub) made the initial impression sound weaker.
 
I installed this Dayton sub in my system. But it would not play with my Pioneer head unit. I'm guessing the 8 + 8 ohm speaker is exceeding the 4 ohm system. Did you experience this? I'm setting it aside till I can install a new sub Amp. Gotta finish installing the rear pillar speakers. I've replaced the door, and dash speakers.
 
Hoping to revive this thread as I also have an '07 FJC with the system which includes the sub. (Not going to the garage now, but pretty sure mine includes an amp under the passenger seat.)

First, a little background. I am so happy with my FJC. Bought this cherry manual 6 speed when I worked in the oilfield in ND for 8 mo in 2014. Currently 190k miles, and knock on wood, the most amazing vehicle ever. I have done minimal mods:

-added air horns wired to the steering wheel, and added a switch in one of the available slots to keep the OG horn for "light work". LOL

-added a Bluetooth backup cam, mounted into the bumper between the spare and hitch (has its own screen I chose to Velcro in the empty space to the left of the steering column)

-added this Bluetooth unit for connecting my phone to the stereo:

https/www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

(since my Jammer 6CD changer died like everyone else's, I have a magnet mount for my Pixel phone plugged into the CD slot and use my phone nav and music...this Bluetooth unit gave my whole stereo new life!!!! But I want a little more...)

Now, based on this and the seemingly infinite other stereo threads I have been researching, I purchased the replacement sub yesterday from this thread's OP.

I plan to upgrade the front door 6x9s also, and likely the dash speakers per Zoso's suggestions. However, I haven't decided on upgrading the HU. I have been heavily considering it, but from the minimal mods mentioned above, you can see I don't need or care about SiriusXM or in-HU-nav or Bluetooth calling or in-HU-backup cam, as I basically have all that covered. (I don't care about wires, I keep things clean enough.) Also, I don't really use any steering buttons other than volume occasionally. (My FJC only has the buttons on the left side.)

Bottom line, do I need to purchase a new HU for this new sub and the other new speakers I would purchase? A few of the threads talking about losing some of the whole system "pre-programming" makes me hesitate. (Don't want to go thru the efforts to install a HU and have everything sound worse. I would definitely do it myself, BTW.)

But maybe I need some more power? If I do get another HU, that would likely be the only reason...if the speakers need the power boost. Likely would get the simplest Kenwood, etc. that would serve that purpose.

Please advise, and thanks in advance!
 
A aftermarket headunit is going to sound way better , and actually the factory headunit May have a hard time driving aftermarket speakers via ohm and build quality of the aftermarket speakers compared to the stock speakers , you should be able to buy an adapter to use with the stock sub and a aftermarket headunit check with a car stereo shop or Best Buy etc. You can go single din or double din on a aftermarket headunit , I would recommend a aftermarket headunit yes , if you want more volume the Alpine Power Pack amp is a good choice
 
Thanks for the response!

Follow up: does the aftermarket HU sound better due to added power (i.e. could I instead keep the Jammer and just add the Alpine amp, like the guy in the other thread who installed your suggested amp + door + deck speakers and ran the new amp for both doors and stock sub...I am aware he already had a new HU), or is there more to it than just the power?

If I can get away with keeping the Jammer and still improving significantly, I'd likely go that way. Purchasing the HU, door speakers, deck speakers, and amp is likely a bit more than I want to spend ideally.
 
aftermarket amp won’t hookup to the factory headunit , you could try using the stock headunit with the aftermarket speakers first to see if it works for you just don’t except much volume , doing it steps at a time speakers first then at some point get a aftermarket headunit then maybe add the amp if you think you need it
 
I hope I am not too much of a bother to you on this Zoso...thank you for all your insight, both for me and everyone else.

I think you have convinced me I need a head unit. I found this locally on Craigslist refurbished for $110...do you mind giving your thoughts if it would do the trick? (Obviously, per the link, I checked it at Crutchfield and it is compatible. I am asking you more based on your amp as well as tweeter and front door speaker recommendations.)

 
While I was waiting for your response, Zoso, I called Crutchfield. Here is the package they put together:

1. 109CT9631G JBL Concert Series 9631 6" x 9" 3-Way Speakers w/Grilles (front doors)
2. 158XAV10BT Sony XAV-V10BT Digital Multimedia Receiver (head unit)
3. 120958202 Toyota Kit 2000-Up, DD
4. 541RP4TY11 PAC RP4.2-TY11 Toyota/Lexus Interface, retains SWC
5. 264PASCON ReadyHarness Service Connect Passive Harness to Radio

For $390, this includes the upgraded head unit to the discontinued Sony I mentioned above from Craigslist (minus the features I don't want/need, and with more power output and better EQ, and for only $80 more), the wiring harnesses needed for my '07 FJC (including steering controls) pre-configured and connected to the head unit on arrival (basically plug and play when I get it and with a $50 savings for buying the HU from them), custom mounting brackets and wiring harnesses for the front door speakers (current upgrades to the discontinued JBL GTO939 GTOs you suggested in another thread years ago), and custom installation instructions for everything.

The prices on the individual components and free shipping match Amazon (with the custom brackets, speaker wiring, and custom vehicle specific instructions included free). For the moment I plan to purchase and install these with the $45 sub upgrade (Dayton Audio SD215A-88 mentioned in the OP, simply swapped in my stock woofer box) and see how it sounds.

Fingers crossed I get what I am hoping for...just a nice boost for a minimal investment up front. I can later come back and upgrade the tweeters, sub amp, and add an amp for the door speakers down the road as I see fit (or as the new set-up blows out the remaining stock components). Please let me know if you see any mistakes in my logic or set-up.

I can't speak enough about how your insight over multiple threads thru the years empowered me to tackle this! And Crutchfield is definitely the way to go (if you are cool with installing yourself...maybe even if not). Not only are the prices spot on as well as getting the harnesses, custom brackets, and instructions...but when I called in to ask questions, I gave the guy a code from my open web page, and he could see everything I had searched and look up compatible upgrades. Then he emailed me a link to a pre-configured cart with everything we discussed. Pretty awesome shopping experience!

I hope this detail helps someone else along the way. Thanks again so much! Be back soon with an update and pics...
 
It seems those Kickers are the way to go. They handle up to 150 watts (300 peak) vs 75 on the JBLs (225 peak), so also better when I add the amp for them later, yes? Plus, they don't even seem to require custom mounts...I may be wrong.

Pretty sure I can easily justify an extra $50. Looks like I owe you yet another thanks!
 
The best thing you’ve done is contact Crutchfield. They’re a fantastic merchant that has a knowledgeable sales staff. They also stand behind what they sell, and give lifetime help and advice with product knowledge or installation. They also help with the gear you’ll need to complete your installation. Trust their advice. That said, as I’ve mentioned to others on here when it comes to speakers “you need to hear them first hand”. Best thing you could do is go into your local Car Toys or similar car audio store and listen to the speakers you’re looking at. Both amplified and un-amplified. This way you can choose the speaker that best fits your musical taste and budget. Truth is you could ask 5 different people what speakers you should buy and get 5 different answers. When in truth the only person that would know best is you. Also don’t get caught up on the numbers. They don’t apply in most cases and can be misleading at times. Purposely so, as it’s part of the manufacturers advertising. More handling power makes people think it’s a better speaker, when that’s anything but true. A good quality, efficient speaker with lifelike sound is what you’d really want. But again pop into a car audio store and listen to them. Then you can either purchase them there if you like the store (I believe in supporting brick and mortar stores) or you can pick them up from Crutchfield. The other best advice already given to you, is that you can do things in steps to keep cost more manageable. The only thing you want to do for certain is have an end goal in mind that you’re working to. So design the entire system, then break it up accordingly to cost and function. Beyond that, I’d avoid Sony for anything car audio. They make amazing TV’s, to be honest all I own are Sony or Samsung TV’s. But they make terrible car audio products. Every manufacturer has certain things they do well. For car audio head units stick with Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood you’ll be far happier. Oh, and return that $30 sub, lol. You’ll be much happier with the route you’re going now.
 
Awesome once again, and thank you for taking so much time for me. Definitely will go into a store and listen as you suggest.

Do you have/see a recommendation for an Alpine, Kenwood, or Pioneer HU with similar functionality to the Sony suggested for a similar price? That is my biggest limitation right now...
 
It seems those Kickers are the way to go. They handle up to 150 watts (300 peak) vs 75 on the JBLs (225 peak), so also better when I add the amp for them later, yes? Plus, they don't even seem to require custom mounts...I may be wrong.

Pretty sure I can easily justify an extra $50. Looks like I owe you yet another thanks!
a few guys I know have used those Kickers and like them a lot very good bass response , sound deadening sure helps a lot to in the front doors I’d consider that , you can get an idea what they sound like at a store but its not an end all speakers are going to sound different in different Applications but it will give you a general idea and good chance they won’t have what your looking to buy
 
Actually there are several on Crutchfield that are within the same $200 price point as the Sony you linked with similar features. The main feature I see missing from the less than $200 options, that the Sony has is the ability to play FLAC files and built in SiriusXM. Workable options for what you want though, start from Pioneer at $150 and up, from Kenwood $200 and up and Alpine while my personal favorite unfortunately starts at $300 and up. The main selling point with the Alpine is you can add a power pak to it later. It’s like a mini amp for your mids & highs. (It’s really just for the convenience of not having to install an amp though.) But truthfully you could just save the $100 on the radio put that towards a small 5ch amp and power everything better than what the power paks provide. While Alpine is a favorite among most, the Pioneers and Kenwoods will serve you just as well. I’ve personally owned and sold all for well over a decade in the past, and they all preformed well. The main thing you’ll want to find out, and I don’t know the answer to this myself. Is which of them will work with your Pixel phone. For the most part they all work with Apple or Android, but I’m unfamiliar with Pixel. Crutchfield could tell you for certain though, just make sure to ask. You’ll also want a cam input, that again most comparable units have. This way if your Bluetooth cam has a coaxial connection you can feed it into the head unit, if not there still may be a work around to get it to work. These two options will allow you to get rid of the extra things you currently have plugged into your radio and dash. As for SiriusXM not being built into some options. If the radio supports your phone or even apps, you should be able to use the app on your phone to play SiriusXM as a work around. And for USB you can connect into the factory USB or add an aftermarket port in one of the many pop outs along the lower dash. (So no need for it on the front of the radio like the Sony has). Other than that if you can afford a radio with FLAC files it’s a nice plus, as it’s HiRes compressed audio. (Basically better sound quality from your compressed music). But I wouldn’t make it a deal breaker as most people don’t use it anyway, and are perfectly happy with standard compressed sound they get from most apps. I’ll include a few head units you can look at for yourself, and ask Crutchfield about.

I added the Sony to every list to easily compare.

This last group is comparing the $300 price point, but to be honest I don’t see any reason why $200 or less won’t work just fine for what you’re trying to do as long as they support your phone.

Remember too, you can save money buying close outs, open box or scratch & dent from Crutchfield. They’re great about standing behind everything they sell including open box & scratch & dent. Or through sales and packages they offer. As long as the items in the package are items you want.
 
AMAZING! This is a most excellent adventure! The time you all are spending helping is just absurd, and so greatly appreciated.

You are spot on. I don't care about SiriusXM in the radio, rarely use it, and can thru my phone when I do. Great catch on the Pixel compatibility. I will ask specifically, but really it is just Android. FLAC what? Not an issue...I am not that much of an audiophile, nor a technophile. I placed my backup cam screen on the left side of my steering, and actually enjoy it there and separate, but appreciate the consideration of including it if desired. I wasn't even thinking about using, nay, updating the pop outs. My '07 doesn't even have a USB, only the Aux. Love this idea, and don't need USB on the face.

I will check out your links later today, see where I can go listen to some options, and call Crutchfield again to wrap things up.

Can't thank you all enough! Pretty excited!!!
 
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