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Re: Off Road Switch Pin Config?

I believe this post might help some:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...ight-switch-oem-part-number-2.html#post822057

Hey, I was about to do the same mod on my FJ.... Did you use the switch harness that is for the auxiliary lights with that roof light switch??? I have bought that same roof light switch, and I bought the auxiliary switch harness (as well as relay)... But when I received them, I noticed the roof light switch is 5 pin, and the auxiliary switch harness is 6 pin, so I was wondering if it would work correctly....

OK, first off, the harness for the 35070 switch (AUX) and the 35072 switch is the same.

As for teh 35072 (Off Road) The missing pin on the 35072 switch is because the pin that provides latching power (pin 3) for the relay also provides power to the illumination bar of the switch. In the case of the 35070 switch (AUX) you need to power the illumination bar (pin 2). To do this you jumper between the out to relay pin and the power to the illumination bar. They just made it easier for you with the Off Road one. Here is a recap based on my old Aux wiring post that provides switch backlighting when parking/headlamps are on (same as other backlit fj switches):

AUX Switch

1.Illumination Circuit Power-splice into wire 4

2.Illumination circuit Ground- ground it

3.Switch power – Spliced into marker/headlamp tap

4.Line out to relay- wire to relay

5. Ground for Backlight- ground it

6.Power for backlight – splice into wire 3

To make a long story short there are three circuits

Illumination Circuit (Pins 1 and 2)
Switch circuit (Pins 3 and 4)
Backlight Circuit (Pins 5 and 6)



Off Road Switch

1.Illumination Ground – Ground it

2. Missing

3.Line out to relay- wire to relay

4.Switch power – Spliced into marker/headlamp tap

5. Ground for Backlight- ground it

6.Power for backlight – splice into wire 4



Here you also have really only two circuits

Illumination and Switch Circuit (Pins 1, 3 and 4)
1 provides ground for the actual bulb, 3 provides line to relay and 4 provides switch power
Backlight circuit (Pins 5 and 6 )

Hope this helps
Jay
 

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Re: Off Road Switch Pin Config?

Thanks for your reply Jay!!! Great info!!! I really just have one additional question that a little clarification on would be great... Is there any adjustments that I need to do to the switch harness, since it is in a 6 pin configuration and the Off Road switch will only be in a 5 pin configuration??? Or will it work correctly without any changes in the wiring on the switch harness??? I will be attempting to run a different set of lights, but wanted the factory switches to operate them.... Thanks!!!
OK now time to confuse everyone. When i posted 2 years ago there was no off road switch yet. Had there been this would have been my wiring instructions for both switches:
AUX Switch

1.Illumination Circuit Ground-ground it

2.Illumination circuit Power- Splice into Wire 3

3.Line out to relay- wire to relay

4.Switch power – Spliced into marker/headlamp tap (Bypass Diode)

5. Ground for Backlight- ground it

6.Power for backlight – splice into wire 4

To make a long story short there are three circuits

Illumination Circuit (Pins 1 and 2)
Switch circuit (Pins 3 and 4)
Backlight Circuit (Pins 5 and 6)



Off Road Switch

1.Illumination Ground – Ground it

2. Missing

3.Line out to relay- wire to relay

4.Switch power – Spliced into marker/headlamp tap (bypass diode)

5. Ground for Backlight- ground it

6.Power for backlight – splice into wire 4



Here you also have really only two circuits

Illumination and Switch Circuit (Pins 1, 3 and 4)
1 provides ground for the actual bulb, 3 provides line to relay and 4 provides switch power
Backlight circuit (Pins 5 and 6 )

Now you can wire both harnesses the same and they will work. The only difference for the offroad switch and aux switch other than the fancy logo on the front of the switch is the fact that Toyota has made it easier for us for the Off Road switch. What they have done is essentially join pins 2 and 3 IN the switch. That means whenever there is power out to the relay the illumination bar automatically lights. In the AUX switch you basically had to jumper pins 2 and 3 together to get it to work.

So to make this story short, if you wire it like above it will work. I looked at my old post and there is a diode in the harness on red/green line, and in order for this to work with aftermarket lights you need to wire around it if you wire both switches . The diode prevents relay power from getting to the switch so you need to make sure you have it wired right. Someone who has the FJ wiring diagrams could tell you more about the logic of the factory wiring circuit. I have more switches coming for my new FJ so I can post current info when I get them wired up.

Good luck
Jay
 

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Re: Off Road Switch Pin Config?

WV_FJ,

I think pin 1 is the power for illumination and pin 2 is the ground. Pin2 is a black wire that runs all the way down to the driver side kick panel to be bolted to the ground.
You may be correct if using Toyota's approach. I did not want to be constrained by Toyota's desire only to have the lights on when my hi beams were on. In order to do this, I bought the Toyota harnesses and cut the end off that didnt mate to the switch and wired it to my own relays, ground, and power source. Now I control what happens when. If you are using Toyotas wiring you shouldnt have to worry just plug and play.

I responded to your PM, but if you guys still have questions, you can email me at [email protected].

Later
Jay
 

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Re: Off Road Switch Pin Config?

Thanks for your time and your help. I have been trying to figure out how to turn the OEM AUX lights at will and without the highbeams.

Test:
I cut the wire in pin 4 location between the diode and the switch and then hooked it up to a direct 12v source.

Outcome:

Lights turn on and off by the switch at will BUT when I turn on the highbeams then the Aux light turns off.

Problem: Adding the 12v source to pin4 should have eliminated the headlamps from the circuit?

Thanks,
A few questions. First does the illumination bar on the switch (the green bar) light when the lights come on and go off when the lights are off if the highbeams are off? Does the switch backlighting work (meaning when the other switches like ATRAC, Parking are backlit is this one too?)?

How are you at electrical stuff? I can help you work around it, but you will need to check some things. Depending on your answers above, I can help you work around to get it to work. I bypassed all the Toyota wiring and it was pretty quick.

Jay
 

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If you chase down the wires going to pins 1 and 2 find which Toyota uses as the ground. In your PM I think you said you did this. If you cut the wire of those two that is NOT the ground, and splice into the wire on Pin 3 of the harness I think your switch should work as you want. In this case when the switch is made you send 12V that comes in on pin 4 out to the relay on pin 3. When you send 12V out on pin 3 it also will send 12V to the wire that you clipped and spliced in and the green illumination bar should light.



As an added question, are you trying to wire up a set of IPF lights? If so you should have gotten all the stuff you need to make it work. If that is the case, I would use the IPF relay and just use the Toyota switch and harness sliced into the IPF harness. If this is what you are trying to do, I would go about it differently.

Later
Jay
 

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I need to reiterate for those that might look at this post later that my wiring diagrams i have posted are for wiring aftermarket lights using either the AUX or OFFROAD switch. I purchased the toyota harness so that I didnt have to solder to the switch but in all cases I did not use a Toyota relay, etc. I used the relay and harnesses that came with the IPF, Hella, PIAA lights and figured out how to wire to the factory switches. I never tried to figure out Toyota's logic since I didnt want my lights to work the way they wanted them too, so I figured out how to make it work my way. I am glad to help, but I have even rewired the AUX bumper mounted lights that came with my Trail Teams FJ to work as I wanted. To do this, I used a new 12V relay (not the Toyota one), the OEM switch and harness and spliced into it behind the switch.

Again I will help anyway I can, but if you are trying to wire up aftermarket lights different than Toyota way, I think you are better off doing it yourself with the materials supplied rather than try to modify Toyota's approach. In my opinion, it is easier and faster in the long run.

Thanks
Jay
 

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Pin 2 is the ground that connects to the chassis. The IPF with OEM off road switch was a separate project that worked fine. I am using all OEM factory switches and wire harness for the AUX lights.

Pin 1 is the illumination so if I read your post right you are saying that this wire should be connected to the relay switch located on pin 3. This would would work fine for the illumination switch but that is not the problem. Something in circuit is cutting the power or rerouting the power to turn off the illumination light and aux lights when the high brights are on.

My question is how is the circuit knowing that the highbright is on or off if PIN4 already has a constant 12v source? Isn't pin4 where the current is coming from for the high brights?

Let me think about this a bit. Please confirm you are trying to "rewire" the FJ Bumper mounted lights with the OEM AUX on demand. Is your plan to run constant 12V to the switch to do this?

Jay
 

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In the case you are trying to "rewire" the AUX lights to work different than Toyota's intent, here is an excerpt from a different post of mine: In your case if you want the lights to work on demand, you will run constant 12V to pin 3 rather than a headlamp/marker tap. Just dont forget to turn them off:)


I did what you guys are trying to do. While there are probably a number of ways to do it, here are some options. It depends how reversible you want to make it.

Ulimate reversibility
Purchase 12V 30A relay at auto store for $5 or less
Purchase lamp harness Pt297-35070LH $20
Switch harness PT297-35070SH $30

Medium reversibility
Purchase 12V 30A relay at auto store for $5 or less
Switch harness PT297-35070SH $20

I chose the medium option. Remove the radio bezel to get at the switches in the center switch bank. Disconnect the plug from the back of the AUX switch. Wire the new switch harness per directions in this post or original post which is linked to in this post. Essentially you need to tap power off the head/marker lamp. This becomes the power used for the backlight of the switch and power used to latch the relay. Find the connector bewteen the harness coming from the firewall and the harness coming from the lights (located on the driver's side right over the wheel well). Cut the harness on the LIGHT side of the connector leaving you enough to splice the connector back on later if needed. If you dont like this option buy a new lamp harness and cut the connector off it. There are two wires in the lamp harness. These are power and ground. The ground I think has a black stripe. Ground the ground to a body ground. Take the power wire for the lights and connect to the light terminal on the relay. You should have 3 more terminals on your relay. One is ground, ground it. The other two are power from battery, so connect to red side of battery. Last terminal is line from switch. Here is it in words:

SWITCH
Pin 1: Illumination Power for "Lights On" indicator light
Pin 2: Ground for Illumination circuit
Pin 3: Switch Power (taken from Marker Lamp Tap)
Pin 4: Line Out to Relay
Pin 5: Ground for Backlit Illumination Circuit
Pin 6: Illumination Power for Backlight

Pin 3 and 6 are taken from marker light tap. Pin 2 and 5 are grounded. Pin 1 and Pin 4 spliced together and then out to relay.

The only thing you have to be careful of is the red/green trace wire. It looks like there is a diode shrink wrapped in line. I expect this is to prevent feeding power to the switch from the relay. If you swap the Pin 4 and Pin 3 wires it will not work since the 12V switch power that comes from the marker lamp tap wont get to the switch if you try to feed it through the red/green wire. So if you think you got it right make sure you didnt swap them.

RELAY Terminals
Terminal labeled 30 wire to positive side of battery FUSE IT!
Terminal labeled 85 wire to ground
Terminal labeled 86 wire to line from switch
Terminal labeled 87 wire to power side of light harness you found earlier

Now aux lights function by way of switch whenever marker or headlamps are on. That way if you forget to turn them off it also means you forgot your headlamps which will turn off automatically also turning off your aux lights so your battery isnt dead

Like I said lots of ways I am sure, but this is a fairly easy, relatively cheap, fairly reversible way.
 

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I see.. You are saying pin 3 is the power and not pin 4? I have the 12v going to pin4 and it turns on the Aux lights on demand except when the high brights are on. So maybe in my current configuration I am creating a short that is allowing the pin 3 to act as my relay instead of pin 4 since I snipped that wire from the factory harness?

Thanks in advance for you help. I am sure this is a bothersome for you.
If you can feed 12V into pin4 and it lights the lamps, then you have it right. The only thing that doesnt make sense is that I know for the OFFROAD switch has pins 2 and 3 spliced in the switch. Since the harness is that same for both the AUX and OFFROAD, I am not sure why one switch woud be one way and the other the other.

I just need to think why the high beams would make it go off. I need to try to dig up a wiring diagram. I looked in the AUX lights install info, but it doesnt have any wiring info.

I know the approach I posted as an excerpt from one of my older posts will work because it is what I did on mine.

Later
Jay
 

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My guess is that Pin1 is the Highbeam power link that not only illuminates the LED but some how in the switch when pressed in sends power from pin 1 to the relay(pin 3) to trip the lights on.

So putting 12v to pin4 links pin 4 and 3 (to relay) to give power to the relay and it works all the time except for when the highbeams are on.

When the high beams are on then it must put pin 1 (power from highbeam) and 4 (12v constant) in the loop and somehow send the power to pin 3 but since the relay is already tripped to on then the extra power from pin 1 shouldn't turn the lights off UNLESS when the high beams are on it is looking for some voltage from diode portion of Pin 4 that was set to the side to complete the circuit?

Maybe instead of cutting the wire I should have probably jumped the 12v source to Pin4 so that power flows to the switch and to the wire harness back to the system?

If I just feed 12 v only to the illumination pin1 then it might work like I wanted BUT the LED light will always be on.
Here is what I would do. Hook wire 4 back up to the harness temporarily. Go through your exercise again with a voltmeter, measuring each pin of the harness against a chassis ground for your different scenarios. It may shed some light on exactly what is going on. In particular what changes from switch activated, headlamps on to switch activated, headlamps on, highbeams on.

If my hunch is correct, the easiest fix to me is to supply 12V to Pin 4, clip the wire going to pin 1 (assuming that pin 2 is the ground, which you can confirm using your meter) and splice the wire coming from pin 1 on the switch into the wire coming from pin 3. In this case, you supply 12V to pin 4, you make the switch which puts 12V to pin 3 that fires the relay. It also then puts 12V to pin1 and lights your illumination bar. The only thing that concerns me is that your lights go out when your high beams go on, meaning maybe there is some interconnect between the highbeams and the line out to the relay. Without a diagram, the only way to figure it out is to troubleshoot with a meter.

Report back and we can go from there.

Jay
 

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I don't think it is the wiring which is why I stated that I need to stop thinking about my IPF wiring with the OEM switch which is setup the same way you are describing.

It is an interconnect somewhere in the ECU maybe?

I need to take the schematic and figure it out. Thanks,
If you meter it you can at least confirm what is going on. I think perhaps (and this is a guess) based on what you saw in your tests that there is some interconnect between the line from the switch to the relay and the high beams. Something like a situation where if the high beams are on the power to the relay coil is cut off.

I will try to look at the wiring schematics this weekend. I have the pdf that someone linked on this thread, but the info on Aux lights looks a bit sketchy.

Jay
 
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