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Here is my setup:

Alll OEM from AUX switch to harness underneath the dash and in the engine compartment. Fuse and Relay are located in the same location that Toyota recommends.

Here are the pics.

Add a fuse located on a constant power source (one with the red add a fuse) and pin 4 was snipped and this wire connected in its place to the wire coming from the switch.



Test one:
Picture with the light switch pressed (lower left OEM Aux switch), LED green light on, and the lights on. PLEASE Note that the headlights are NOT on because I routed the 12v source to PIN4.





Test 2:

headlights on, Backlight on, switch pressed in, led on (shows red in pic but it is green) and the Aux lights are still on with the headlights now.






Test3:

Now same setup as test 2 but with the high brights on and you will notice that the LED on illumination has turned off and the Aux lights are off.






I hope this helps in helping me.
 

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I see.. You are saying pin 3 is the power and not pin 4? I have the 12v going to pin4 and it turns on the Aux lights on demand except when the high brights are on. So maybe in my current configuration I am creating a short that is allowing the pin 3 to act as my relay instead of pin 4 since I snipped that wire from the factory harness?

Thanks in advance for you help. I am sure this is a bothersome for you.
If you can feed 12V into pin4 and it lights the lamps, then you have it right. The only thing that doesnt make sense is that I know for the OFFROAD switch has pins 2 and 3 spliced in the switch. Since the harness is that same for both the AUX and OFFROAD, I am not sure why one switch woud be one way and the other the other.

I just need to think why the high beams would make it go off. I need to try to dig up a wiring diagram. I looked in the AUX lights install info, but it doesnt have any wiring info.

I know the approach I posted as an excerpt from one of my older posts will work because it is what I did on mine.

Later
Jay
 

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TEST 4: Swap Aux with Off Road switch on the OEM AUX wire harness.
.

For grins sake I took out my OEM "off road" switch and installed it in the Aux location. Here is what happens.

1. Switch pressed in and the lights turn on but NO LED illumination.

[/IMG]

2. Switch pressed in, headlights turned on, backlight turns on and the lights are still on but NO LED illumination.



3. Switch pressed in and highbeams on, backlight still on, lights are now turned OFF but the LED illumination is ON!



Summary
Highbeams on and the LED illumination is on with the Aux lights OFF ;High beams off and illumination switch light is off and the Aux lights is ON.



Picture of OEM AUX wiring with pin 1 starting from Right.



Picture of OEM off road wiring with pin1 starting from the top.





Hope this helps.
 

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My guess is that Pin1 is the Highbeam power link that not only illuminates the LED but some how in the switch when pressed in sends power from pin 1 to the relay(pin 3) to trip the lights on.

So putting 12v to pin4 links pin 4 and 3 (to relay) to give power to the relay and it works all the time except for when the highbeams are on.

When the high beams are on then it must put pin 1 (power from highbeam) and 4 (12v constant) in the loop and somehow send the power to pin 3 but since the relay is already tripped to on then the extra power from pin 1 shouldn't turn the lights off UNLESS when the high beams are on it is looking for some voltage from diode portion of Pin 4 that was set to the side to complete the circuit?

Maybe instead of cutting the wire I should have probably jumped the 12v source to Pin4 so that power flows to the switch and to the wire harness back to the system?

If I just feed 12 v only to the illumination pin1 then it might work like I wanted BUT the LED light will always be on.
 

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I keep trying NOT to think about how I wired my IPF harness to the "off road" OEM switch because I am sure that the OEM harness has some "other" wire running that is taking into account other variables to make the light work in the factory mode.
 

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My guess is that Pin1 is the Highbeam power link that not only illuminates the LED but some how in the switch when pressed in sends power from pin 1 to the relay(pin 3) to trip the lights on.

So putting 12v to pin4 links pin 4 and 3 (to relay) to give power to the relay and it works all the time except for when the highbeams are on.

When the high beams are on then it must put pin 1 (power from highbeam) and 4 (12v constant) in the loop and somehow send the power to pin 3 but since the relay is already tripped to on then the extra power from pin 1 shouldn't turn the lights off UNLESS when the high beams are on it is looking for some voltage from diode portion of Pin 4 that was set to the side to complete the circuit?

Maybe instead of cutting the wire I should have probably jumped the 12v source to Pin4 so that power flows to the switch and to the wire harness back to the system?

If I just feed 12 v only to the illumination pin1 then it might work like I wanted BUT the LED light will always be on.
Here is what I would do. Hook wire 4 back up to the harness temporarily. Go through your exercise again with a voltmeter, measuring each pin of the harness against a chassis ground for your different scenarios. It may shed some light on exactly what is going on. In particular what changes from switch activated, headlamps on to switch activated, headlamps on, highbeams on.

If my hunch is correct, the easiest fix to me is to supply 12V to Pin 4, clip the wire going to pin 1 (assuming that pin 2 is the ground, which you can confirm using your meter) and splice the wire coming from pin 1 on the switch into the wire coming from pin 3. In this case, you supply 12V to pin 4, you make the switch which puts 12V to pin 3 that fires the relay. It also then puts 12V to pin1 and lights your illumination bar. The only thing that concerns me is that your lights go out when your high beams go on, meaning maybe there is some interconnect between the highbeams and the line out to the relay. Without a diagram, the only way to figure it out is to troubleshoot with a meter.

Report back and we can go from there.

Jay
 

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I don't think it is the wiring which is why I stated that I need to stop thinking about my IPF wiring with the OEM switch which is setup the same way you are describing.

It is an interconnect somewhere in the ECU maybe?

I need to take the schematic and figure it out. Thanks,
 

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I don't think it is the wiring which is why I stated that I need to stop thinking about my IPF wiring with the OEM switch which is setup the same way you are describing.

It is an interconnect somewhere in the ECU maybe?

I need to take the schematic and figure it out. Thanks,
If you meter it you can at least confirm what is going on. I think perhaps (and this is a guess) based on what you saw in your tests that there is some interconnect between the line from the switch to the relay and the high beams. Something like a situation where if the high beams are on the power to the relay coil is cut off.

I will try to look at the wiring schematics this weekend. I have the pdf that someone linked on this thread, but the info on Aux lights looks a bit sketchy.

Jay
 

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WV FJ,
I finally got around to tearing the counsel since I was hard wiring my CB.

1. Snipped number 1 wire. No change in functionality other than losing the indicator light now which I knew it would but this was a test before connecting it to the relay out wire.

2. Connected it to the relay out wire to give the indicator light back its functionality but the lights still cut off when I hit the high beams.

Since the number 1 wire is just the indicator and did not improve the functionality I re-attached it as it was before.

I have concluded, for the OEM AUX lights setup, that the mechanism that is killing the lights has to do with something else outside of the switch and wire. There must be a second relay sensor or something.
 

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I tried this wiring solution posted by WV FJ (aka Jay) but could not get it to work when I went to wire a of PIAA 1500 back up lights using the off road switch and harness.

When I attached the red wire with blue trace (PIN 1) to a ground, the green wire with purple trace to the power out of the relay, and the red wire with green trace both the green LED indicator light and the 1500's stayed on indepent of switch actuation.

The solution that I found for my set up was this:

redwire with blue trace (PIN 1) goes to power out from PIAA rely
PIN 2 missing
Green wire with purple trace disconnected/capped off/ not in use
red wire with green trace (PIN 4) connected to return power from switch.

Now everything works fine. Green LED comes on when OFF road switch pressed on and PIAA light come on as well.

The backlight feature works when the grey wire at the switch end of the harness is grounded and the green wire with silver/grey dots from A-Trac switched is tapped. Any feed back welcomed.

kroley
 

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Need some help here.....

I'm trying to wire some Rugged Ridge HID's to the offroad switch that is pictured below. The Rugged Ridge has a red power wire that connects directly to the battery and then feeds back into a inline fuse and then into the relay. Then there is a black wire that comes out of the relay and is used to attach to a 3 prong switch that comes with the rugged ridge HID kit. I can attach a ground wire and this black wire to get the Rugged Ridge switch to work and operate the light. However, the offroad OEM switch becomes a problem for me. I wired in this configuration:

Off Road Switch

1.Illumination Ground – Ground it

2. Missing

3.Line out to relay- wire to relay

4.Switch power – Spliced into marker/headlamp tap

5. Ground for Backlight- ground it

6.Power for backlight – splice into wire 4

I tried taking PIN 3 and tapping into the relay wire and then taking PIN 4 and placing it into the open Marker/headlamp fuse location in the fusebox. However, this just supplies constant power to the lights and I can't turn them off.

I also tried running the BLACK wire from the HID lights and attaching it to PIN #3 and again using the fuse location in the fuse box. However, when I turn the HID lights on the head lights cutoff.

So, what am I doing wrong? Should I not use the fuse box location and tap into the headlamp wire? I'm trying to add the switch to one of the two slots that are located on the left side of the steering wheel. If I do need to tap into a wire to make the lights function properly what color is the wire that I should be looking for?

I'm tempted to just use a 3 prong switch and forget the OEM switch but i'd prefer the stock look if possible.

 
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