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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Gravygrabber's 30K service thread

Okay so my 08 FJ cruiser is up for it's 30K service interval and I thought about making this thread for forum member's who don't know what's involved, are not mechanically inclined or on the fence about doing the service. I will be basically going off the maintenance guide and adding a couple of extra little things which I'll note as I go out of the normal maintenance. I will load the sections of the service one at a time as I do them and it may take awhile so please be patient. I'm a full time mechanic so customer's cars come first!



First let's see what's involved. Go to Toyota Owners - Official Toyota Owners Website This is a great website for Toyota owners. If you register you can log all your maintenance you do yourself and all warranty and regular work at the dealer will be logged as well. If you ever have to sell in the future having accurate records of all work done makes the sale a lot easier and alternatively if you have a problem with your FJ and Toyota wants maintenance records before paying a warranty claim it's as simple as printing it out.



Find the tab on the top of the page that says "Manuals" then to "Warranty & Maintenance"




A new screen will pop up with the year/model tabs. Enter your year in the year tab and FJ Cruiser in the model tab and it will pop up the maintenance guide and warranty guide for your FJ. Click the maintenance guide and a .pdf file comes up which is the guide



I've gone ahead and skipped over to the 30K service interval. Notice the regular items then below Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions. My FJ has towed in the last 30K AND Toyota has changed the weight of the diff. oil in TSB so I'm going to be doing the additional maintenance items. *NOTE: This info is in the owner's manual as well I just wanted to show you guys the owner's link site and why I find it to be a good resource



Here is a link to a thread about the diff. oil change,
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/maintenance-tech/60405-differential-gear-oil-tsb.html

Here she is ready to enter the shop!


Going up!
 

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Been waiting for this for some time.

Thanks for taking the time to put all of this up :bigthumb:
 

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What took you so long... :lol:

I hit 30K last year and basically had all the fluids replaced in mine. Tranny, Front and Rear Diff, Transfer Case and Oil. Cost $460 and all of it was synthetic since my truck requires it (2010). Oh almost forgot, had all the zerk fittings greased for the drive shaft.

Other wise the air filters been replaced every 5-7K (worked in dusty environments) and now is replaced with a TRD. Tires rotated every 5K.

All that info is also in your owners manual supplement.

:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
What took you so long... :lol:

I hit 30K last year and basically had all the fluids replaced in mine. Tranny, Front and Rear Diff, Transfer Case and Oil. Cost $460 and all of it was synthetic since my truck requires it (2010). Oh almost forgot, had all the zerk fittings greased for the drive shaft.

Other wise the air filters been replaced every 5-7K (worked in dusty environments) and now is replaced with a TRD. Tires rotated every 5K.

All that info is also in your owners manual supplement.

:cheers:
I got my 08 (new) in 09 it was still on the lot so Toyota gave me a great interest rate and a nice rebate so technically the truck is 3 years old but only in use 2 years. At 2 years I've driven it about 15K a year which is a little higher than average so I'm a little early.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Many of you won't be using a lift but I thought I would go ahead and show the proper lifting points. It's going to be the same lift points if you use a jack and jack stands (speaking of jack stands DON'T EVER USE A JACK WITHOUT JACK STANDS!) Hydraulic jacks have seals that fail and mechanical jacks can drop a vehicle if you start moving the vehicle while working under it. Jack stands are there for a reason USE THEM.


Here's a couple pictures showing where you want to be. Once you have it on the lift completely or have it on jack stands give the vehicle a good jounce on the front or rear bumper to make sure it's sturdy and supported. Better to find this out before you get under it.





I'm not going to put all four corners on here I think you guys get the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Manual Transmission drain/refill


I have a manual transmission so that's what I'm going to show. As this article progresses I'll either do another FJ with an automatic transmission when one comes in or find a member to do it and add to this thread.



The service manual calls for 75W-90 GL-4 or GL-5. I'm going to be replacing my manual transmission oil with Redline synthetic oil in this weight for my FJ.
Mainly because it's avail. locally and it's slightly cheaper than the Toyota factory oil which is neither cheap nor avail.




These pictures are not that great but I just wanted to show the weight and the GL rating




The first thing you need to find is the drain and fill plugs. A little advice about this type of system. ALWAYS take out the fill plug FIRST. The reason why is if you remove and drain the drain plug first and then you discover the fill plug won't come out you are stuck without a way to put oil back in. This doesn't happen often but if you follow my advice you'll never have this problem.
Here's what the manual transmission looks like from under the truck. The bottom is the fill plug and the one on the upper side of the case is the fill plug. I've circled them in red and green. The red is drain and green is fill.





The plugs are the same size. I loosened the fill plug a little then took out the drain plug









Notice the debris in the magnet which is in the drain plug itself. This looks like alot of debris but it's not unusual. It's there to catch the shavings that occur as the transmission wears and to keep them from moving around in the fluid. You need to clean this stuff completely off. I used brake clean to clean mine. It's avail. at any auto parts store. It removes oil based chemicals and leaves no residue which is ideal for this type of cleaning






All clean and ready to go back in. Toyota states to replace the aluminum crush washer seal. You can get away with flipping it over and using it again but if you're completely by the book you'll want to change it.





Install the clean drain plug with a new crush washer gasket and torque it with a torque wrench to 27 ft. lbs. once the old fluid is completely drained out.




Time to refill it with fresh oil. You'll need some sort of pump to pump it in. The transmission sits high under the truck and you can't use a funnel or pour it directly in so a hand pump is pretty much a must. I used a cheapo hand pump for this sort of job. It's my buddy's pump so it has some ATF in it from it's last use. I went ahead and cleaned it out throughly with brake clean and shop air before using it to pump in oil on my truck!



Once I had it cleaned up the pump I opened a bottle and found that the hand pump wouldn't screw down onto the threaded neck of the bottle of Redline. I ended up holding it and manually pumping. The manual transmission holds almost 2 quarts of oil so this took quite a while to pump in by hand with a pump that wasn't quite working right.




Route the pump hose and pump away!
Like I said before it took awhile to pump in. It's 1.9 quarts so you're hands will get tired of pumping. I took a couple breaks. In this type of refill you want to fill the fill hole until fluid pours out of the fill hole. You want the fluid level even with the fill plug opening. I usually pump until the fluid streams out then I let it drain until it stops then install the plug.Here's some pictures to help show what I mean








Last step is to install the fill plug when the fluid stops coming out and torque it. I couldn't find any spec for the fill plug but since it's exactly the same size with the same washer as the drain I torqued it to 27 ft.lbs.

\





When the oil drains out filling it the transmission case gets a little oil on it. To be able to tell if something is leaking in the future I go ahead and clean off the case and frame rail, etc.. with brake clean and a rag to get it clean again. All done!
 

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Are the drain plugs the exact same size for all compartments - engine oil, differentials?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cabin filter


FJ's have a cabin filter to filter the incoming air that comes into the cabin. It removes pollen and dust as the air comes into the cabin. To get to it you need to take out the stuff in the glove box then find the little shock absorber thing on the right side of the box and push the tabs in at the bottom so the shock thing comes off the box





Once that's off the tab you can then grab both sides of the box and compress them slightly and pull forward until it releases. It sounds worse then it is. It's actually not a big deal. If it's not coming out don't force it. Just bend in the sides slightly more and try again. It shouldn't be at the point of breaking or take a lot of force FYI. You are basically pulling in the stop tabs that keep the glove box door from opening completely out. I only had my Droid when I did this so pictures are limited.



Once the box comes forward you don't really need to remove it. All the instructions say to unclip it. I'll pass since I can get it out without any more work. Behind the glove box is a white box behind it that holds the filter. Just release the two clips on either side and pull it forward to take out the filter.

Here's my old filter on my box drawer along with a new filter from Toyota. Notice the old filter is pretty dirty and it isn't as thick as the new one. The reason why is Toyota uses crappy filters and makes you pay a premium for a "premium" filter they sell later. I have no idea why they do this. I worked for Honda as a dealer tech and they put in quality HVAC filters and don't make you spend extra for a good one. Regardless I wanted the best filter so I opted for the "premium" one. It's got charcoal in it to absorb odors and do a better job filtering. It's a better filter for sure. It's heavier, not as flimsy and fits the holder much better. I would get this one if I had the choice everytime.







Here it is installed in the holder and ready to go back in the box





I just wanted to point out that this is another example of why it's important to know what's going on the truck on a 30K at the dealer. Is it the cheap filter or the premium one? There is a difference! I'm not saying dealers are all bad but they could be using the cheap filter to lower the quote for this service.

Once it's installed back into the box (just slide it in until it locks) you can bend back the sides of the glove box and push it back up to where it goes normally. Don't forget to fill out the sticker and install it in the inner lip of the glove box door.


 

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Good thread. I'm only at 10k, but good info for future reference.
 

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Wanted to add this info from another thread; good to have it all in one spot:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/47399-drain-plug-torque-specs-gaskets.html

Rear Diff:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 36 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 12157-10010
Tools needed: 24mm Socket

Front Diff:
Fill Plug: 29 ft/lbs.
Drain Plug: 48 ft/lbs.
Fill Plug Gasket: 12157-10010
Drain Plug Gasket: 90430-24003
Tools Needed: 10mm Hex Socket

Transfer Case:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 27 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 90430-18008
Tools Needed: 24mm Socket

Manual Tranny:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 27 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 90430-18008
Tools Needed: 24mm Socket

Engine Oil:
Drain Plug: 30 ft/lbs. (according to my local Toyota service department)
Drain Plug Gasket: 90430-12028 or 90430-12031
Tools needed: 14mm Socket with small extension, A flat screwdriver to remove the plastic oval from the stock skid plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wanted to add this info from another thread; good to have it all in one spot:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/47399-drain-plug-torque-specs-gaskets.html

Rear Diff:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 36 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 12157-10010
Tools needed: 24mm Socket

Front Diff:
Fill Plug: 29 ft/lbs.
Drain Plug: 48 ft/lbs.
Fill Plug Gasket: 12157-10010
Drain Plug Gasket: 90430-24003
Tools Needed: 10mm Hex Socket

Transfer Case:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 27 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 90430-18008
Tools Needed: 24mm Socket

Manual Tranny:
Fill & Drain Plugs: 27 ft/lbs
Fill & Drain Plug Gaskets: 90430-18008
Tools Needed: 24mm Socket

Engine Oil:
Drain Plug: 30 ft/lbs. (according to my local Toyota service department)
Drain Plug Gasket: 90430-12028 or 90430-12031
Tools needed: 14mm Socket with small extension, A flat screwdriver to remove the plastic oval from the stock skid plate.

I thought it was 24MM too but it's loose compared to 15/16". 15/16" fits better so I was assuming that's the correct size.
 

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What price should I expect for my 30K service? I called the dealer yesterday to get an appt and they told me it was $360 for the service. They didn't have the time I wanted available so I had to shuffle my schedule and call them back. I called today, and now they are telling me it's $645!

Holy He!! that is a huge price jump in 24 hours.
 

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What price should I expect for my 30K service? I called the dealer yesterday to get an appt and they told me it was $360 for the service. They didn't have the time I wanted available so I had to shuffle my schedule and call them back. I called today, and now they are telling me it's $645!

Holy He!! that is a huge price jump in 24 hours.
Sounds like you got a hold of two different service writers. Read your Owner's Manual and ask for a quote for exactly what's stated in the manual. No more, no less. That way, you know what they are quoting for and you can compare apples to apples. You can't just go by something a service write throws off the top of their head. Each vehicle is different and none of them require fuel injector service or muffler flushes or any of that other bogus stuff.

DEWFPO
 

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I paid 245 bucks for my service I think thats a fair price.
 

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Sounds like you got a hold of two different service writers. Read your Owner's Manual and ask for a quote for exactly what's stated in the manual. No more, no less. That way, you know what they are quoting for and you can compare apples to apples. You can't just go by something a service write throws off the top of their head. Each vehicle is different and none of them require fuel injector service or muffler flushes or any of that other bogus stuff.

DEWFPO
Called a local Toyota specialist and went over just that list with them. Brought it down a few hundred bucks. Since I am planning on keeping this thing till the wheels fall off, I figure I'll go ahead and do it instead of breaking it up into multiple services like I was going to and forgetting about it (like I was likely going to).
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
This thread is for DIY 30k service not for discussing the price at various dealers but I wanted to respond because I'm seeing quite a bit of prices thrown around on the forum and net.

Here's what you need to be careful of,

The bulletin states the diffs. take 75W-85 now. That fluid when I priced at which was 10% over the dealers cost was $33 a quart for non LSD diffs. and $62 a quart for LSD diffs. Let's say you have a 4X4 no lsd diff because you have a locker like mine. That's $165 just in diff. fluid. Add the cabin filter, manual tranny fluid, oil filter and oil (some FJ are synthetic now) and spark plugs and you have no real room for labor at all which makes me question prices like $245.
Having worked for several dealers in my career I'm afraid many FJ owner's are getting 80W-90 weight instead of the correct fluid and probably the lower quality cabin filter, no drain plug washer replacement, etc. It's really the only way a dealer could make a profit at $245.

EDIT, I'm doing severe service too so that adds the diff. change almost forgot that. You may get away with a lower price for the 30K on normal service interval.
If you are going off road in an FJ I'd recommend the severe service interval though.



If you think I'm full of it I worked at a Honda dealer that used aftermarket cabin filters and spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, drain plug washers on EVERY service they performed. Oil was cheap as you could buy (Chevron generic)
Just think about this when you are getting a quote. If you aren't being oversold on services which aren't required by the factory and you are getting a cheap quote there is a reason why.

This is why I created this thread. I want to show how easy it really is and hopefully help you get quality parts/fluids installed
and keep your hard earned money.
:bigthumb:
 
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