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As far as the 80W-90 comment like I said I called 3-4 local dealers around me and they all stated they use 80W-90 and only one even knew about the TSB. It came with 80W-90 if you have an older FJ (mine looked like 80W-90 when it came out) You have to understand at most dealers they don't care about things like this. They have a ton of the 80W-90 in bulk so they continue to use it.
Just went and looked at the TSB and I just got my numbers confused, meant to say 75W-85. Haven't seen anything about 80W-90.

Hmm, makes me question just using 75W-90 now...gas mileage is important to me, but being a college student I don't really have the money to shell out for a case of 75W-85. Guess I'll just keep using the 90 and switch it to 85 when I have a real job :clap:

And is it supposed to be 75W-85 for front diff, rear diff, and t-case?
 

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Just went and looked at the TSB and I just got my numbers confused, meant to say 75W-85. Haven't seen anything about 80W-90.
In the '07 owner manual and shop manual, 80W-90 is recommended for temps below 0 F as a "winter" oil. Of course, an 80W-90 is only "good" to -30 C or -22 F. I guess in temps colder than that you're supposed to put the FJ into storage

Or you just do what I did when my FJ had around 1,200 km initial - drain all the gear oil and refill with Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75W-90

Hmm, makes me question just using 75W-90 now...gas mileage is important to me, but being a college student I don't really have the money to shell out for a case of 75W-85.
The FJ never was and never will be an economical commuter car. Anybody that constrained by fuel economy is better off selling their FJ and getting a good used Corolla or Civic

Although the specs for Redline 75W-85 compared to Mobil Delvac 75W-90 indicate the 75W-90 has 50% higher viscosity, I would be amazed if just changing the gear oil would make that much difference

I went to fueleconomy dot gov and looked up a 2007 FJ auto5 4x4 and a 2010 FJ auto 5 4x4. According to the estimated "new" fuel economy calculations, 15 city and 19 highway

The 2010 is rated 17 city and 21 highway. Keep in mind there were some changes to the motor too.

So is it "worth" changing out synthetic 75W-90 for the pricey 75W-85? Perhaps if you put on +100,000 miles a year. Otherwise, based soley on potential fuel economy gain, no

But if the Toyota 75W-85 has special additives to prolong the life of that rear end, then absolutely yes it is worth it

And is it supposed to be 75W-85 for front diff, rear diff, and t-case?
The TSB clearly states it is for front and rear axles. The TSB applies also to 4Runners from 2003 on

There is no mention of the transfer case in the TSB. Perhaps somebody with a 2010 FJ would be kind enough to read their owner manual and mention what the specs are
 

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The TSB clearly states it is for front and rear axles. The TSB applies also to 4Runners from 2003 on

There is no mention of the transfer case in the TSB. Perhaps somebody with a 2010 FJ would be kind enough to read their owner manual and mention what the specs are
Sorry about that, I was in a hurry and missed that.

Is the Mobile Delvac different than Mobile 1 gear oil? I've been planning on using Mobile 1.
 

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The Mobil Delvac is a commercial heavy duty gear oil intended for use in Arvin, Eaton, Mack axles. Limited slip additives are forbidden in heavy duty axles as they can cause long-term seal leakage and reduced axle life

So if you have a car or truck with a clutch plate limited slip rear axle, never use the commercial gear oils

The additive package in the Delvac gear oil is much different than the Mobil 1 gear oil, as they are intended for different applications. The additive package for Delvac is designed for enhanced pinion and ring gear life and good seal protection
 

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In the '07 owner manual and shop manual, 80W-90 is recommended for temps below 0 F as a "winter" oil. Of course, an 80W-90 is only "good" to -30 C or -22 F. I guess in temps colder than that you're supposed to put the FJ into storage

Or you just do what I did when my FJ had around 1,200 km initial - drain all the gear oil and refill with Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75W-90



The FJ never was and never will be an economical commuter car. Anybody that constrained by fuel economy is better off selling their FJ and getting a good used Corolla or Civic

Although the specs for Redline 75W-85 compared to Mobil Delvac 75W-90 indicate the 75W-90 has 50% higher viscosity, I would be amazed if just changing the gear oil would make that much difference

I went to fueleconomy dot gov and looked up a 2007 FJ auto5 4x4 and a 2010 FJ auto 5 4x4. According to the estimated "new" fuel economy calculations, 15 city and 19 highway

The 2010 is rated 17 city and 21 highway. Keep in mind there were some changes to the motor too.

So is it "worth" changing out synthetic 75W-90 for the pricey 75W-85? Perhaps if you put on +100,000 miles a year. Otherwise, based soley on potential fuel economy gain, no

But if the Toyota 75W-85 has special additives to prolong the life of that rear end, then absolutely yes it is worth it



The TSB clearly states it is for front and rear axles. The TSB applies also to 4Runners from 2003 on

There is no mention of the transfer case in the TSB. Perhaps somebody with a 2010 FJ would be kind enough to read their owner manual and mention what the specs are
2010 transfer case = 75w

diffs =75w-85w
 

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A straight SAE 75 in the 2010 TC? Or did they make a typo and actually mean a 75W-90 in the transfer case?

I personally don't think it would make any difference if one used the Toyota gear oil in the TC. Unless Toyota feels the additives or the oil viscosity will not work with the TC.

Have had zero issues running Mobil Delvac Synthetic 75W-90 in the TC. Only thing I noticed immediately after changing over the first time was how much smoother the shift action was
 

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This may help others. I recently did a 30K service on my '07 AT 4WD

SF Bay area stealership rates for 30K service

Engine air filter change, Oil and Filter change, Tire rotation, Lubricate propeller shaft (all zerks), Re-torque propeller shaft bolt, Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis, all inspections listed in owners manual.

$150

Add front & rear diff. (75W-85 non-LSD) & transfer case oil change

$255

Add Brake Fluid change

$160

Add Spark Plug change

$225

Total: $790
 

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Holy crap! If anyone is in the OKC area I'll knock some off the dealer price and do a plug change for you for $200. I'll even throw in free plugs.
 

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That is crazy
Yep, it is. I'm bailing out Wall street bankers to the tune of thousands of dollars in taxes. What's a couple hundred dollars to support a local stealership.

*Sarcasm off*

Called 4 in the area and 3 were in the ballpark around 220. One quoted 331!

Holy crap! If anyone is in the OKC area I'll knock some off the dealer price and do a plug change for you for $200. I'll even throw in free plugs.
I'm a DIYer myself. Back when I was in a rougher neighborhood the landlord didn't care about cars on jack stands and greasy residents walking around with mechanics tools. Now that we've moved to a "luxury" apartment community the neighbors will probably freak out if I in so much opened the hood of my truck to check the oil!

Here's a free business idea. Just like those DIY carwashes, there should be DIY garages. Just provide a jack lift and specialized tool rentals.
 

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Where's gravygrabber?

:bump: :bump: :bump:
 

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Manual Transmission drain/refill

The service manual calls for 75W-90 GL-4 or GL-5. I'm going to be replacing my manual transmission oil with Redline synthetic oil in this weight for my FJ.
Mainly because it's avail. locally and it's slightly cheaper than the Toyota factory oil which is neither cheap nor avail.
Hi... when looking for the oil you used:
Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil
The webpage says:
"This product is not designed for use in most manual transmissions or tranaxles, since the extreme slipperiness may cause synchronizer mesh issues that lead to shifting problems"

Indeed, I've read in other threads that many oils like also Royal Purple are not good for the manual transmission...

What do you think?
 

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Great thread!

KyFJGuy
 

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Great thread!
2010 Automatic uses 75W 85, or 75W 90? (Delvac or Mobil 1?)
My understanding is that both MT and AT versions, for the diffs and transfer case, use synthetic 75W85. Probably 75W90 is totally fine, too. It does not need "LS" (limited slip) additives but apparently, those won't hurt.
 

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Sorry guys ill try and finish it asap. ;)
You've provided a ton of great info, thank you!!
...but...
Hurry up and hit 60,000mi...I'm ready for that service:bigthumb::lol:
 
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