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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
*2018 edit* = For those that are new to this post, please remember to download the Chrome add-in for the Photobucket fix: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...m_source=gmail

I no longer have any of these pics to redo them but the extension above gets them all to populate.... this thread is truly worthless without the pics.

Well, I wanted to add my own $0.02 to help clear up any confusion about HID and DIY Projector assemblies for the FJ. There are numerous threads on the board outlining DIY EBay Projector kits, complete Anzo CCFL Halo assemblies, and the ever-popular DDM Tuning drop-in HID kits in the stock FJ reflector housings. While all these threads are informative, I wanted to add my own clear and concise summary of each of the HID options for the FJ and finally walk you through the complete retrofit on my FJ lights using a company called “TheRetrofitSource.com”

There are commonly 3 methods to convert the FJ headlights to HID…

1) [Easiest Install / Worst Lighting Control] DDM Tuning (or similar company) drop-in style H4 bulb and ballast kit. This kit is a very simple install but provides the worst light control.

The kit includes…

• 2x HID 35W or 55W ballasts
• 2x H4 HID bulbs that drop into the stock “reflector” style housing* (your choice of color)
• 1x Wiring Relay Harness that connects to the battery, to the ballasts, to the hi/low module in the harness, then plugs into the FJ factory 3-prong harness
• Double sided tape and tie straps to mount ballasts

Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small mechanical actuator encased in the big, black plastic piece on the back of the HID H4 bulb that rotates the metal shield around the bulb to direct the light beam.

*The “reflector” housing refers to the shiny silver bowl that the stock halogen light bulb reflects light off of. The HID H4 bulb reflects light in this same manner as the OEM halogen bulb yet this light is so much brighter and only has a small metal shield around it to direct the light beam; doing a poor job at that. The inability to accurately control the light beam in the “reflector” style housing creates a flood or “spill” of light from the headlights that is blinding to oncoming drivers. There is no distinct “cutoff line” of light; rather it looks like someone is shining a really bright flashlight on the road. After running this setup for a couple months I caught the HID bug and decided to do things the “right way”…projectors

Light Scatter Pics:



2) [Harder Install / Better Control] Anzo Projectors with CCFL Halos.
This kit is slightly more difficult to install due to grill removal and headlight/blinker removal, but it is a complete plug and play unit that provides great light control and a distinct cutoff line. This is a complete drop-in projector* style housing that includes H9 bulbs, a relay with 1 red and 1 black wire to power the halo, then a plug that attaches to the FJ factory 3-prong harness. Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small, spring loaded metal plate inside the projector lamp that moves down to expose more light from the H9 bulb. The bulb itself is NOT a dual filament like OEM halogens. *The “projector” housing controls the beam of light through a lens as it passes over a metal shield (this is what creates the “z” look of the cutoff line). It would be similar to covering the top half of a flashlight with a piece of paper to make a distinct line on a wall. Projectors assemblies are found on newer vehicles but DO NOT necessarily mean that a car has HID bulbs. Many new cars have projectors for low beams and a reflector “bowl” style assembly for hi beams. Projector assemblies make it easier to do HID drop-in bulb conversions (i.e DDM Tuning) due to the control of the light output. The Anzo CCFL Halo assemblies come with halogen H9 bulbs, but it is a very dim light output. I would highly recommend an HID Kit through a company like DDM Tuning to take true advantage of these assemblies. Also, the halos DO NOT produce enough driving light to be used on their own. They make unique looking DRL’s though!









3) [Hardest Install / Best Light Control] TheRetrofitSource.com complete HID retrofit kit with Morimoto Mini Stage III (D2S) Projectors.
This kit is the most difficult to install due to grill removal, headlight/blinker removal, and complete headlight disassembly; but it provides amazing light control and an unparalleled, razor sharp cutoff line. Don’t be scared to try this on your own!!!
This kit includes…
• 2x D2S Morimoto Mini bi-xenon Projectors w/ clear lenses (Low & High Beams)
• 2x HID ballasts (Morimoto, Denso, or Matsu****a)
• 1x Ballast test lead
• 2x D2S HID Lamps (Morimoto or Philips)
• 2x Shrouds of your choice (these shrouds cover the metal projector housing)
• 2x Projector Centric shroud spacers (these allow easy mounting of the shroud)
• 2x Angel Eye rings (optional and extra $)
• 2x metallic BIXENON bezel emblems
• 2x Alcohol prep pads for the HID bulbs
• 1x Plug n Play Bi-xenon Relay Harness (must specify H4 harness in order)
• 1x TheRetrofitSource.com decal
• 2-year worry free replacement warranty and SUPERB customer service
Pics of the kit…




If you have aftermarket ballasts you need these adapters…


Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small, spring loaded metal plate inside the projector lamp that moves down to expose more light from the D2S bulb. The bulb itself is NOT a dual filament like OEM halogens. The high beams are activated by connecting the projector solenoid wires to the H4 wiring harness include in the kit; this harness also contains the factory 3 prong connector.






The projectors included in this kit are the “easiest” to retrofit because the threaded, tail end of theD2S projector unit fits through the stock H4 bulb opening, then 2 jam nuts tighten down on the OEM housing.** With this kit, you still maintain all the OEM vertical/horizontal adjustment via the stock adjustment wheels so you can position the cutoff line to your specifications. Also, the shrouds are not necessary, but they do make for a cleaner install look as they cover the “guts” of the projector assembly behind the lens. For example, the Anzo’s projector is hidden behind the huge black plastic “shroud” that allows you to just see the lens of the projector…the Anzo shroud also hides the “bowl” shape of lamp housing by bringing everything to the forefront. This shroud doesn’t affect the light output, nor does it eliminate glare or light spill; it’s just there for looks and to cover up the projector body.
**There is also a Mini Morimoto Stage III H1 kit available that “easily” fits the FJ housing (among other projectors that require more extensive modification). Please follow the link to see the differences between the Mini D2S and MH1 (Mini H1) kits: mini h1 or d2s in a 2011 Tundra
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
DIY install of Morimoto Mini Stage III (D2S)
Materials used: GE Silicone 2 clear and a syringe for more precise control, Scotch Brite grey pad, screw driver (pictured later), clamps (pictured later), pliers (pictured later), and 3M Window Weld.







1. Remove the 2 screws from the back of the stock lamp assembly as well as the light bulb.



2. Preheat the oven to 265 degrees. Place assembly on the top most rack with the clear lens facing up. I put it on a baking sheet on the top wire rack with no problems. Bake for 7min but keep an eye on things to be safe…don’t leave them alone and DO ONE AT A TIME. Personal note: I was super scared of this step. I was afraid everything was going to melt and this assembly was going to be even too hot to touch. I WAS WRONG! 265 degrees is not as hot as you think and I never once had a “close call” of burning down the house during the 7 minutes.





3. Remove from oven with regular mechanics gloves, and begin to immediately pry off the clear lens with a putty knife or similar. I used my thumb to pry back the black clip holders (CAUTION, the plastic is very susceptible to bending too far back and possibly breaking off; I used too much pressure on one but didn’t break it off. When it comes time to heat it up for reassembly it will bend back to regular shape) while the other hand manned the flat blade screwdriver. I went to each of the clips first to pry out the clear plastic nubs, and then I took the putty knife to pry off the lens. Move steadily around the assembly prying with even pressure and reasonable force.






4. Eventually the clear lens will be able to be peeled back by hand and completely separated. Be sure not to let the glue sling on the inside of the clear lens as you want to keep it clean. If it happens be sure to wipe it clear before reassembly. Honestly mine came off like butter and the factory glue made ZERO mess.



5. It is NOT necessary to spend time and the effort removing the OEM sealant from the clear lens or around the black plastic of the lamp assembly. You will reheat both these pieces and USE THE OEM SEALANT again to put everything back together. There should be plenty of OEM sealant on both pieces to reseal them back to perfect…but if worried, apply a thin layer of 3M Window Weld Ribbon sealant (in addition to the OEM) in the channel of the assembly. Simply work the 3M ribbon between your fingers for the desired thickness.







6. Remove the OEM reflector shield arm, scuff the surface of the bucket if painting, and tape off product to paint. (see step 13)



pic courteous of lonelydriver on fjc forum…


7. Remove all hardware from backside of the projector except for the big (white) silicone crush washer…pictures courteous of Matt @ TRS.com


8. Insert threaded shaft through the pre-existing H4 bulb hole in the back of your reflector bucket…some pictures courteous of Matt @ TRS.com


 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
9. Align the projector rotationally by adding the H4/9003 adapter plate on the backside of the threads. The notch on the inside should slide down the channel for it on the projector. Run the wires for the solenoid (and CCFL's in this case) through the small cavity that remained after removing the metal halogen bulb shield.





10. Slide the black rubber o-ring over the threads until it seats flat onto the adapter plate. Ensure it does not get twisted during the process. Note: I did not use the black rubber o-ring due to clearance issues. The issue was that the black o-ring covered the last precious threads I needed to properly tighten the lock ring. Instead I used a bead of Silicone 2 at the base of the lock washer so when it sandwiched against the adapter alignment plate I got a great seal and the extra security of knowing the lock washer shouldn’t loosen. I was able to get a full 3 threads showing after I tightened it down… some pictures courteous of Matt @ TRS.com




11. Tighten down the whole assembly by threading on and tightening the threaded lock-ring. Be careful not to over-tighten or it may break. You only need to have 2-3 rows of threads left to work with after this goes on. Again, I got 3 rows of thread not using the black o-ring… some pictures courteous of Matt @ TRS.com




12. Onto the shrouds. The shrouds are purely aesthetic and serve the important purpose of covering the projector assembly. In fact, you do not need shrouds if you want a very utilitarian look. There are MANY shrouds to choose from but I chose the Gatling Gun 2.0’s. It is a large shroud that fits superbly in the FJ headlamp bucket and really fills it up (sorry guys, there is currently no shroud that will alleviate the bug-eye look of retrofitting HIDs in round headlight buckets. The bug-eye look comes with the territory for any round, deep bucket)





Shroud centric ring. This ring fits inside the shroud and creates a pressure fit on the lens of the projector. I don’t trust either of the pressure fits so I used Gorilla glue to permanently mount the ring into the shroud. I never intend to take these out of the shrouds. I used Silicone 2 on the projector assembly later (Step 15).









 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
13. I chose to paint my shrouds and buckets Toyota OEM 058 Iceberg color code to match my freshly painted bezel. PAINTING THE BUCKETS DOES NOT CAUSE LIGHT SCATTER OR REFLECTIONS. I did it for purely cosmetic reasons. You can achieve the ultimate Storm Trooper look by painting the shrouds white and the buckets black. But, I wanted everything above the bumper to match the body color. So far I have not seen the need to use high heat paint for these components. Never noticed a paint smell in the oven or even after hours of use from the headlights. I first scuffed the surface of the shrouds and buckets with a grey Scotch Brite pad. Nothing too extensive, just make sure you go over the surface a couple times to knock down the shine and give the paint something to stick to.






14. Installing the 90mm CCFL Angel Eyes. After the shrouds dried I installed the CCFL’s. Please notice that the rotation/orientation of the wires is sitting at 7 o’clock. I did this so that the rubber ends where the wire came out of CCFL ring would be hidden behind one of the shroud’s ribs rather than showing through the slot in front (see pic 1 below). This way when the CCFL’s are on, you see a constant uninterrupted ring of light through the slot. The way I installed the CCFL’s was simple. I first taped the ring flush to the inside of the shroud so that it sat right on top of the slotted window. Then, pile the silicone on the CCFL and around it. Don’t worry, the silicone will NOT creep past the halo ring through the slotted window of the shroud because you have taken the time to align it and tape it down properly over the slot. This way you don’t see any silicone from the front of the shroud when it’s finished. Allow the initial spots of silicone to dry for 3 hours before removing the tape. Then, remove the tape and silicone over the rest. Note: Silicone is the preferred method of adhesion as it is flexible enough to absorb road vibrations, heat/cold, and still be removable if the need arises.









15. Installing the shroud onto the projector. In order to get the shroud with centric ring slipped completely onto the projector, I had to do a significant amount of trimming on the housing of the projector. There are 2 silver mounting ears on the projector that MUST be trimmed off, but the rest of the shaving on the black plastic around the mounting screws was done on my part to ensure that the projector slipped all the way into the shroud. NOTE: I chose to install the shroud on the projector assembly BEFORE securing the projector in the headlamp bucket. I did this because the service rep Matt at theretrofitsource.com has done this exact install before and could verify that going out of order on this step would be fine. The shroud is typically installed onto the projector after the projector has been tightened down to the headlamp bucket. I personally found it easier to install the shroud on the projector out of the bucket as it was not as bulky to handle and I had less of a chance to mess up my newly painted bucket…to each their own on this step. Installing the shroud on the projector is simple. Apply a thin bead of silicone on the black plastic housing around the lens and carefully slide the shroud onto the projector. Be sure to wipe any excess silicone off from around the lens itself as a little bit may squeeze out around the lens frame and the shroud centric plastic ring. Allow to dry for another 3 hours.

Right out of the box… not going to fit just yet. Have to trim 2 of the top silver mounting ears.









 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
16. Double check/clean your work, because it’s going back together…for good hopefully. If needed, and highly recommend for extra caution, apply a thin layer of 3M Window Weld Ribbon sealant (in addition to the OEM) in the channel of the assembly. Simply work the 3M ribbon between your fingers for the desired thickness. Place everything back onto the baking sheet and back into the oven at 265 degrees for 5-7min. Immediately press and clamp the two halves together until the assembly cools.










17. Clean your D2S bulbs thoroughly with the alcohol pad and then insert into the back of the projector. The notches will only allow it to go in one way. Put the metal split ring washer over the back, as shown… some picture courteous of Matt @ TRS.com



18. Add the black o-ring over top the split metal ring. The angled side should face down.

 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
19. Lock the bulb in with the end cap. This only needs to be hand-tight to the couple leftover threads. The projector is now mounted and 99% aligned in your headlight. Final alignment will be done with the OEM adjustment screws once assembled in the FJ… some picture courteous of Matt @ TRS.com


20. Trim the OEM rubber dust boot to fit around the D2S plug. I simply inverted the rubber dust cover and trimmed back the rubber “nipple” portion to open the diameter of the hole to fit around the base and the ears of the D2S bulb. You will have to cut the hole opening large enough to allow the metal ears/tabs to be exposed so that the red plug can seat and twist over the base of the bulb.
Pics courteous of quacktoduck on fjc forum…








21. Reassemble into your FJ. Included is the wiring diagram to tap into for the halos if you plan on using them as running lights. **Halo RED wire to FJ GREEN wire and Halo BLACK wire to FJ WHITE/BLACK wire**
Pic courteous of lonelydriver on fjc forum…




Some pics of where I mounted ballasts…




**Also, if you are looking to fix the high beam indicator please see this write-up from bumper on fjc forum:
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/stereo-electronics-electrical/102754-bi-xenon-hid-conversion-no-high-beam-indicator.html


22. Step back and enjoy your new light output!!!











high beam: KILLER


Thanks for taking the time to read and hopefully enjoy this write-up. If you notice any mistakes or have any questions please feel free to contact me. I am far from an expert on the matter and have received much help from Matt at TRS.com and Nestor from this forum. Much thanks again!

John
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Quite Possible the best write up I've ever read on a forum. Thank you. Sweet storm trooper too.
Thanks! It took a LONG time to get everything together. I am a little pissed though that all of my pics are not expanding to full size. Really don't want to have to recopy and paste from photobucket.

edit 4/27/11: Fixing all available images to expand... I feel better :)
 

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Darkhorse, a great write up. This is just in time for my retrofit that has been completed by one of the mod-masters here, NDA431FJ. My first mod I ever farmed out was the retrofit HID/Projectors. I am actually receiving them tomorrow, so I will post up pics. I chose the kit with 35watt, 6000k bulbs with the Gatlin shrouds with CCFL Halo's mounted behind them. This seemed to be the best kit available. NDA431FJ, kept me informed through the entire process with pics and I love them. Im also worried about yearly state inspections so I am running a switch for the Halo's instead of tapping the running lights.

Awesome write up, I will add my install and information here if you dont mind.

Here is some random info if you are curious, starting here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/interior-exterior-visual-tech/126365-oracle-halos-thumbs-up-down-2.html#post1876092

Will post my stuff here soon. Thanks.
 

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Darkhorse, a great write up. This is just in time for my retrofit that has been completed by one of the mod-masters here, NDA431FJ. My first mod I ever farmed out was the retrofit HID/Projectors. I am actually receiving them tomorrow, so I will post up pics. I chose the kit with 35watt, 6000k bulbs with the Gatlin shrouds with CCFL Halo's mounted behind them. This seemed to be the best kit available. NDA431FJ, kept me informed through the entire process with pics and I love them. Im also worried about yearly state inspections so I am running a switch for the Halo's instead of tapping the running lights.

Awesome write up, I will add my install and information here if you dont mind.

Here is some random info if you are curious, starting here: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/interior-exterior-visual-tech/126365-oracle-halos-thumbs-up-down-2.html#post1876092

Will post my stuff here soon. Thanks.

Awesome!!! Yes, Nestor is the man! He turned me onto TRS.com and they are great. I went with my existing DDM 55W ballasts even though the Morimoto kit came with the 3fives. I guess I will have a backup pair. I opted for the more expensive Osram bulbs. Originally I went with the Philips because TRS hadn't started carrying the Osrams yet. Biggest complaint with the Philips was that they were a little too yellow. Also, I got the GG2 shrouds because Matt sold out of the GG1's. I was too impatient so I said I would give them a shot. I think they look a little more busy but they were really easy to install with the CCFL halos. I REALLY like your BIG LED halos though. I debated on ordering some of the 7" flexible LED strips from TRS.com to do this exact thing. Kind of wish I would have gone your route now because it makes it look less bug-eyed...oh, well I can always change them, not a hard job. You didn't hear this from me, but I already want to try to retrofit the FXR or LS460 projectors in the FJ:lol: I have only had these Mini D2S's in for 2 days and I already want to tear them apart...I am sick in the head.

PLEASE feel free to post your stuff on my thread!!!! You are a great guy and I know you take pride in your work (we talked stereos once and you were extremely helpful!!)

Can't wait to see it!

Hey NDA431FJ, start posting your A+ work here too!
 

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Thanks! It took a LONG time to get everything together. I am a little pissed though that all of my pics are not expanding to full size. Really don't want to have to recopy and paste from photobucket.

edit: I noticed that the pics I batched for download to photobucket all remained small while the pics I did one at a time are able to expand...dang, my OCD wants me to fix all of these.
It turned out awesome and its "CDO if its a real psychological disorder:) alphabet :cheers:
 

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No box today, I guess the USPS boned me. Hopefully lights will be here Monday, will post stuff on the retrofit then.
 

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Thanks for taking the time off to write everything up. Nicely done! The amount of work involved for the 3rd kit is more then I'm willing to tackle, but I applaud your effort in the documentation. :cheers:.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for taking the time off to write everything up. Nicely done! The amount of work involved for the 3rd kit is more then I'm willing to tackle, but I applaud your effort in the documentation. :cheers:.
Thank you! If you skip all the painting and the Halo rings you can tackle this project over the weekend :) ... just one more thing for the to-do list though.
 

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I don't know the name of the rubber waterproof housing that goes on the back where the wires come out, But i didn't see that in the photos. Is it not required in your build?
 

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hey guys i did this mod as soon as i got my FJ in january... talk to matt at trs he actually owns a army green 2010 so he knows whats up

here are the pics of my install











took them apart and painted the shrouds

pics TBA
 

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I don't know the name of the rubber waterproof housing that goes on the back where the wires come out, But i didn't see that in the photos. Is it not required in your build?
the best way to modify this is....









one edit i did was i took it off and put it around the ds2 adapter and zip tie it, then put the rubber after, on once the ds2 bulb and adapter is on
 

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The refectors on my headlight assemblies were painted "Flat" black.

 

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Blackout reflector and morimoto mni projector lens with chrome Gatling shroud. Customer does'nt like the Halo rings.

 
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