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That's weird..your speaker and phone shut down ?? I've never heard of that before. I know that when I was bench testing the ballasts, there is an audible click as the lights fire up. I've never experienced an EMP-like event like you described though. That really sucks that this happened to youmy friend. I haven't wired in my demon lights yet since they're blue( for now )and it's too cold to do it, so I have the wires with the ballasts still sitting on my bench, and likely won't need them until spring. If you want, I can send them to you, and when you order another set, you can send them back to me by spring. Sorry that this happened to you..I really can't wait to see them on your FJ.


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Thanks for the offer and generosity, but I actually had some left over LED ballasts from another project that I was able to use, so I'm good. But I'm gun shy about firing up the HIDs again until I move everything else to a 'safe' distance so I can do more testing. Maybe if I figure this phenomena out I can use it to my advantage to EMP cars that cut me off!:rofl:
 

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Looks good but the angel eye ring is off centre


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Fortunately it isn't mounted yet. :wink

Can't wait to see the finished product. But, for $1000+ I'm hoping to see flamethrowers or deathstar lasers! :grin
Price out a good retrofit, and it can exceed $2k easily even for like an F150. :nerd
 

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I didn't think it was..I was just being a smart ass lol. They do look pretty sharp, but they're just out of my budget, especially when you convert to Canadian dollars. My current setup, which I'm quite satisfied with, cost me around $180CDN, plus a small packet of elbow grease.

But not everybody is ready to tackle a mod like this, so having a service like yours available is great for the majority of people that want a bi-xenon setup, and are afraid of mucking things up if they attempt it on their own.


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Maybe some information that others will find useful. While bench testing these lights I was curious how hot they really get.

I took measurements with an IR thermometer every 5 minutes until they stabilized at around 25 minutes, and then every 20 minutes after that out to 2 hours.
These are H1 bulbs with 55W ballasts. This was an open air test (projectors sitting on my bench), so I'm assuming they will run a bit hotter when enclosed in the headlight housing.

End of the projector that holds the prism was 150F (66C)
Rim of the projector housing was 185F (85C)
Body/base of the projector housing was between 215-250F (101-121C). It was hard to get a stable reading on the chrome surface.
See the picture below for clarification of positions.
 

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I knew that they got quite hot..found out the idiotic way with my last set..hot enough to leave a pattern on my thumb lol.

I was going to paint mine black as well but my wife convince me to leave them chrome. I think the black shroud with the chrome headlight reflector will have a wicked effect with the black reflecting on the chrome surface!


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Did you wire up the shrouds as the DRL? I'm trying to finish up my retrofit today and thats the last part I need to wrap up.

-B

I went for a quick rip this morning and took some pics of the 4LED angel eye ring..it's so damn bright that it's hard to get a great pic of what my eyes are seeing, when I use my iPhone, but you get the idea. So all these are with the HID headlights off:






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I simplify the FJ cruiser Headlights system.
Check the attachment.

You can do whatever you want. All simple and easy now.

Plus, A two headlights system
With one relay or Two relay..

Any questions or ideas they are welcome.


Goodluck.


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I bought all of my stuff from TRS with their black Friday coupon code. There is a big difference between the TRS/Morimoto products versus the generic stuff that has flooded the market.

Based on the research I did for the Morimoto D2S 4.0, it's is superior to the generic projectors in terms of sharpness, width, the projection of light, and ease of installation. It also has higher quality parts, fasteners, wiring, and connectors.

The Morimoto Panamera shroud has built in clips that attach to the projector without any glue, cutting, or modifications. The clips also aligns the shroud square with the projector so that the quad LEDs are square.



@FatJohnson Bought the projectors from your link last night. The seller agreed to swap the halos for amber/white switchback halos for an additional $15-USD.
Now I'm researching bulbs and ballasts. Looks like you can get kits from ebay that include ballast/harness/bulbs for anywhere between $30 - $60. The Retrofit Source kit is around $160. Anyone know if this is a case of 'you get what you pay for' or am I just paying for pretty packaging from TRS? Headlights are obvioulsy an item I want to be reliable, so don't mind spending the money if it will really be an improvement.
 

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Did you wire up the shrouds as the DRL? I'm trying to finish up my retrofit today and thats the last part I need to wrap up.

-B


I wired them to a separate switch and use them as DRLs. The original headlight's DRL function is also wired to another switch which is turned off so that the HID bulbs aren't being used as DRLs.


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Did you wire up the shrouds as the DRL? I'm trying to finish up my retrofit today and thats the last part I need to wrap up.

-B
Can't wait to see it. I'm pretty close to the same spot with my retrofit, just need to finish up the wiring. I had already installed a switch to disable the DRL circuit, so I'll unhook the DRL wires and re-purpose the switch to drive a relay to run the white color on my shrouds.
 

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I wired them to a separate switch and use them as DRLs. The original headlight's DRL function is also wired to another switch which is turned off so that the HID bulbs aren't being used as DRLs.


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Do your HID's come on when the DRL's are supposed to be on? Mine don't at all. The lights work fine with low and high beams but then nothing for DRL.
 

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No, the HIDs are off so long as the inline switch I added I is off. If I turn the switch on, then the HIDs would function as DRLs. I wired the halos to another switch which I leave on so that they turn on as a DRL.


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Here's the Morimoto D2S 4.0s with the notches to hold the shrouds in place along with the back side of the Morimoto Panamera shroud. I got everything buttoned up last night and took it for a test run.

The light output and width of the beam are ASTONISHING when compared to my old projectors. I just need to adjust the headlights up and I'm good to go. The only issue I'm having now is flickering of the lights so I'm wondering if I need a capacitor on each ballast to filter out the flicker.
 

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I just wired my switch back halo and shroud to the 3 wires in the turn signal bulb for the time being. I've searched high and low for the DRL trigger on the FJ and it seems that most people either wire up a separate switch, tap into the rear turn signal, or find a switched power source when the ignition is in the on position.

-B

Can't wait to see it. I'm pretty close to the same spot with my retrofit, just need to finish up the wiring. I had already installed a switch to disable the DRL circuit, so I'll unhook the DRL wires and re-purpose the switch to drive a relay to run the white color on my shrouds.
 

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Finished up my retro-fit last night. I still need to aim the projectors a little better, but HOLY COW these put out a lot more light! Took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood and it lit the entire length of my street (about 18 houses). I'm really loving these lights, we'll have to see how long these amazon bulbs and ballast last, but so far I'm really happy.

Unfortunately, I'm not happy with everything. This is the reason I tend not to spend a lot of money on my first attempt at aesthetic mods. It's pretty rare that what I create looks as good as the vision i had in my head. So, for me, it's better to spend less money when there is a pretty high risk that I'll wind up scrapping some of it.

Two things I'm not happy with:
1) The shroud halos look really good at night (see 1st pic), but you'll normally be running the headlights at this time so the halos won't be visible (or at least they won't stand out) anyway. When I turn them on during the day they are really underwhelming (see 2nd pic). This is mostly my fault, I added some NightShade blackout paint over the lenses covering the 4 main LEDs in the shroud halo. These lights seemed blindingly bright when I was bench testing so I wanted to tone them down a bit, obviously I went a bit too far. I'm thinking I'll either clean the blackout paint off the lenses or get a brighter halo ring...probably both.
2) The black on black color scheme. This looked great while I was building it, but once I put the main housing lens on it and closed it up, they really lost all their depth, which isn't really the look i wanted (see 3rd pic). Still pondering how I will fix this.

So, Bi-xenon projector lights = AWESOME, my take on color scheme = not so much (back to the drawing board on that, but that's half the fun of modding, trying stuff out to see what works)!
 

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