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The projectors do project an amazing beam for sure. I was never crazy about blacking out the FJs reflectors, because I really like how deep they go..they look jewel-like. Now what I wanted to do was black out the shroud like you did, and keep the chrome headlight..that IMO would have a great effect since the black shroud will reflect off of the chrome.


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I forgot to mention that I'm glad that you're happy with the projectors output..they are quite amazing. This is why I can't understand why guys are spending more money on two lifetime LED bulbs than this whole project costs?? Maybe they are worried about botching the mod? I know I was but I just bit the bullet and gave it a try. It turned out to be more time consuming than it is difficult.


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I agree, this mod is not terribly difficult, but it does have a lot of fear factor to it, and maybe some risks that people aren't willing to take on.
With an LED swap, you're essentially just swapping bulbs. If you don't like the results it only takes a few minutes to put the stock bulbs back in and you're back in operation. With this mod, if you don't like it or some part of it goes bad on you there is no quick/easy path back to your original setup. Like you said, it can be time consuming which is true for both installing it and taking it back out.
That being said, in my opinion this mod is worth the cost or risks depending on which way you go. If you're not comfortable with the risks associated with DIY, then it is still definitely worth the extra money to have @TRSAndrew or @NestahEdition build a more plug and play setup.
 

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Price out a good retrofit, and it can exceed $2k easily even for like an F150. :nerd
I was a little confused by this comment since most of your retro-fit kits are less than $500, but I spent a little more time on your site this week and I see you were talking about the full drop in assemblies. Makes more sense now. Still looking forward to seeing the results of your new kit.
 

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Here's the Morimoto D2S 4.0s with the notches to hold the shrouds in place along with the back side of the Morimoto Panamera shroud. I got everything buttoned up last night and took it for a test run.

The light output and width of the beam are ASTONISHING when compared to my old projectors. I just need to adjust the headlights up and I'm good to go. The only issue I'm having now is flickering of the lights so I'm wondering if I need a capacitor on each ballast to filter out the flicker.
Those (circled) tabs can stay in the projector notches when they are cold. So some shrouds with hard tabs had to be heated to soften them so they don't break when you attach the shroud to the projector.

The temp inside the projector can reach to ~200F+ and those plastic tabs can become soft or can bend. The shrouds can drop out of the projecot on a hard bounce of the FJ front end specially on a rough offroad trails.

You can use the (black) beading wire to tie the (any) shrouds to the projector or the halo rings to the shrouds/reflector bowls.
 

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Here's the Morimoto D2S 4.0s with the notches to hold the shrouds in place along with the back side of the Morimoto Panamera shroud. I got everything buttoned up last night and took it for a test run.

The light output and width of the beam are ASTONISHING when compared to my old projectors. I just need to adjust the headlights up and I'm good to go. The only issue I'm having now is flickering of the lights so I'm wondering if I need a capacitor on each ballast to filter out the flicker.
Finished up my retro-fit last night. I still need to aim the projectors a little better, but HOLY COW these put out a lot more light! Took it for a quick drive around the neighborhood and it lit the entire length of my street (about 18 houses). I'm really loving these lights, we'll have to see how long these amazon bulbs and ballast last, but so far I'm really happy.

Unfortunately, I'm not happy with everything. This is the reason I tend not to spend a lot of money on my first attempt at aesthetic mods. It's pretty rare that what I create looks as good as the vision i had in my head. So, for me, it's better to spend less money when there is a pretty high risk that I'll wind up scrapping some of it.

Two things I'm not happy with:
1) The shroud halos look really good at night (see 1st pic), but you'll normally be running the headlights at this time so the halos won't be visible (or at least they won't stand out) anyway. When I turn them on during the day they are really underwhelming (see 2nd pic). This is mostly my fault, I added some NightShade blackout paint over the lenses covering the 4 main LEDs in the shroud halo. These lights seemed blindingly bright when I was bench testing so I wanted to tone them down a bit, obviously I went a bit too far. I'm thinking I'll either clean the blackout paint off the lenses or get a brighter halo ring...probably both.
2) The black on black color scheme. This looked great while I was building it, but once I put the main housing lens on it and closed it up, they really lost all their depth, which isn't really the look i wanted (see 3rd pic). Still pondering how I will fix this.

So, Bi-xenon projector lights = AWESOME, my take on color scheme = not so much (back to the drawing board on that, but that's half the fun of modding, trying stuff out to see what works)!
Good job guys!
 

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I knew that they got quite hot..found out the idiotic way with my last set..hot enough to leave a pattern on my thumb lol.

I was going to paint mine black as well but my wife convince me to leave them chrome. I think the black shroud with the chrome headlight reflector will have a wicked effect with the black reflecting on the chrome surface!


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The effect of Satin Black painted shrouds on the chrome reflector bowl is elegant. Though you will get some scattered/reflected light from open areas of shrouds like the Panamera.
 

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Here's the Morimoto D2S 4.0s with the notches to hold the shrouds in place along with the back side of the Morimoto Panamera shroud. I got everything buttoned up last night and took it for a test run.

The light output and width of the beam are ASTONISHING when compared to my old projectors. I just need to adjust the headlights up and I'm good to go. The only issue I'm having now is flickering of the lights so I'm wondering if I need a capacitor on each ballast to filter out the flicker.
Those (circled) tabs can stay in the projector notches when they are cold. So some shrouds with hard tabs had to be heated to soften them so they don't break when you attach the shroud to the projector.

The temp inside the projector can reach to ~200F+ and those plastic tabs can become soft or can bend. The shrouds can drop out of the projecot on a hard bounce of the FJ front end specially on a rough offroad trails.

You can use the (black) beading wire to tie the (any) shrouds to the projector or the halo rings to the shrouds/reflector bowls.
Sample build. Customer requested RGB / purple for his girlfriend's FJ.
 

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The effect of Satin Black painted shrouds on the chrome reflector bowl is elegant. Though you will get some scattered/reflected light from open areas of shrouds like the Panamera.


Good to have you back! Thank-you for posting the picture..I keep trying to imagine what it would look like and I like it from what I can see. I have another shroud coming with the switchback feature that I may paint up after seeing your pic. Thanks Nestah!!


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Sample build. Customer requested RGB / purple for his girlfriend's FJ.
Both of those setups look great, but did you leave the outer lens off on the purple one? This is the exact look I was going for except with amber halos. But it really loses all of its depth when you put on the lens due to the glare.
Have you done anything using chrome paint? Most chrome paints look more like polished aluminum instead of chrome but the contrast may give me back some depth while combating the scattered light you mentioned above. Just kicking around some ideas.

Also, I gotta get a better camera! It's impossible to get a clean shot of lights like that with an iPhone.
 

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Awesome write-up. I'm looking at doing a Retrofit of my own and have a few questions. Im planning ok going with the morimoto mini D2S 4.0 and the Panarama switchback shrouds... will I need to cut the shrouds or the headlight housing in order to fit this setup?

Is there a way to wire it up so for DRL, you get Amber on the switchback, then when you go to full lowbeams, you get white on the switchback with Amber turn signals? Thanks guys
 

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One question for those running the HID retrofit, now that we are in winter, does the snow pack onto the lenses due to the lack of heat produced by the retrofit kit in the stock housing? My biggest fear is driving through a snowstorm with the headlights completely caked over with snow. Not a problem for the hot Halogens...
 

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Awesome write-up. I'm looking at doing a Retrofit of my own and have a few questions. Im planning ok going with the morimoto mini D2S 4.0 and the Panarama switchback shrouds... will I need to cut the shrouds or the headlight housing in order to fit this setup?

Is there a way to wire it up so for DRL, you get Amber on the switchback, then when you go to full lowbeams, you get white on the switchback with Amber turn signals? Thanks guys
Yes...but it takes a little effort, and a few relays. And it depends how complicated you want to get. Do you want the ambers to blink when being used for DRLs also? Do you want the ambers to be on when the running lights are on?

Easiest iteration on this setup is:
1) whites are off and ambers are on for DRLs and don't blink when the lights are off
2) whites are on and ambers blink with the turn signals when either the running lights or headlights are on.

This can be accomplished by attaching the white wire to the running light circuit and attaching the amber wire to a single relay that switches between the turn signal and a switched power source depending on whether the running lights are on.

Next level of complexity is to get the ambers to blink when being used as DRL's. You can add a second relay on each side that operates off the turn signal that interrupts the switched power source. This will actually turn the 'DRL' off when the turn signal blinks so you'll get a slow strobe effect between the turn signal and the 'DRL'.

Beyond this you can get the ambers to be on when the running lights are on but not with the headlights and still blink as turn signals, but that requires tapping into both the high and low beam headlight circuits and adding more relays for each. I'd have to put together a drawing to illustrate this setup properly.
 

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One question for those running the HID retrofit, now that we are in winter, does the snow pack onto the lenses due to the lack of heat produced by the retrofit kit in the stock housing? My biggest fear is driving through a snowstorm with the headlights completely caked over with snow. Not a problem for the hot Halogens...


HIDs get very hot, snow and ice are not a problem.


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HIDs get very hot, snow and ice are not a problem.


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Hey my friend, thank you for this! I knew the actual projectors get hot, but I was worried about them being in the large stock housing and dissipating enough heat to not get the outer lens warm enough. This is good news, it honestly is the only reason I have not done this yet. I already have a history of baking headlights, a la Z28 lenses to paint the interior back in the day.
 

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Happy to help. They get so hot that the spin on nut that holds the projectors in the housing will brand your thumb and index finger with the same grooves that are on the nut, if you try to remove it too soon without a cool down..yaaa, it made me jump back pretty good once the nerves finally got the signal to my unsuspecting brain !


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Discussion Starter #717 (Edited)
Man o' man, super happy to see that this thread is still helping people! Truth be told, I myself need to redo my own projectors from when I started this post almost 7 years ago. It's not that my D2S v2.0's are bad, I just know that projector technology has evolved and I am behind the times... my halos are still working perfectly too. Also, after 7 years of dust, grime, humidity and general road usage the inside of my clear plastic headlight housing is getting cloudy and needs to be wiped up as the cutoff line is not what it used to be due to the hazy plastic. The OEM dust covers I cut to protect the bulb access have been doing a great job though.

For those that are new to this post, please remember to download the Chrome add-in for the Photobucket fix: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg?utm_source=gmail

I no longer have any of these pics to redo them but the extension above gets them all to populate.... this thread is truly worthless without the pics.

Enjoy!
John
 

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Just did the retrofit this last weekend. Bought the "FJC vehicle specific" kit from TRS. I would not recommend because its just their universal kit but costs $68 more.
I had some issues with the igniters not fitting with the OEM rubber caps on. Even cutting them they wouldn't fit. I had to buy 90mm caps off Amazon to complete the job.

Wiring was pretty simple. Pretty much plug play except for wiring into the turn signals for the switchbacks.
 

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Just did the retrofit this last weekend. Bought the "FJC vehicle specific" kit from TRS. I would not recommend because its just their universal kit but costs $68 more.
I had some issues with the igniters not fitting with the OEM rubber caps on. Even cutting them they wouldn't fit. I had to buy 90mm caps off Amazon to complete the job.

Wiring was pretty simple. Pretty much plug play except for wiring into the turn signals for the switchbacks.
Convenience costs money--a lot of folks just want something they know will work without having to pick all of the options. :angel
 

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I installed the xenon-vision bi-xenon drop in kit and it's pretty decent so far. A vast improvement over my old LEDs. I went for the 4300k 35w option - the colour is good, and the beam is pretty sharp with minimal scatter - much, much sharper than the LEDs. On low beam, they are great, on high beam they are amazing. My old 29" 160w LED light bar looks feeble in comparison...
While I'm happy with their bi-xenon lights, I'm absolutely not happy with the LEDs I bought off them for interior and reversing lights - junk.
 
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