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First off. Wow. You really went above and beyond on this post. ok, so I am about to order the Anzo CCFL halo lights. I was wondering how much of a "plug and play" ordeal they are to install. because everywhere I read says "strongly encourage professional install" but I don't really wanna take it somewhere if its semi easy to do. is there a video somewhere of someone installing these exact halo headlights? thanks
 

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Hi guys, I've been following the post for a long time and I really decided to do it, I've seen several kits on ebay to make the mod.

So what do I have to buy?

WHAT'S INCLUDED
2x Projectors: Morimoto Mini D2S 4.0 Bi-xenon
2x Ballasts: Morimoto XB35/XB55 D2S
2x Bulbs: Morimoto XB D2S
2x Shrouds: User Preference
1x Wire Harness: Morimoto Relay
Warranty: 35w Five Years or 50w 3 Years

CONFIG: 5500K / 55 Watts Ballast and Gatling Gun 2.0


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Morimoto-D2S-4-0-Stage-III-Complete-Projector-Retrofit-Kit-Free-Sealant/323147983174?hash=item4b3d1ee946:g:TA0AAOSwmWVaq-qO

With this i need another thing? This is my first time opening the headlights and i'm from Chile. If i buy, i have to be sure about this.

PD: I have a white FJ and i thinking about the shrouds are not necessary (i don't like that), help to choose :D!

Thank you guys.
 

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So after days reaseaching and emailing Morimoto I’ve still been unable to disable my headlights staying on.

Quick run down on what I have. Headlight retrofit with bi xenon projectors. Led ring connected to running lights. High beams and low beams work correctly. I have the drl plug disconnected behind the LF headlight. With my old H4 hid kit I never had a issue with the headlights turning on. Now that I have the Morimoto wiring harness to activate my high beams, my headlights are always on when the vehicle is running. Well as soon as I take off the parking brake.

Does anyone have any ideas. Morimoto has been absolutely no help and I’m honestly disappointed with their customer service. The best they could do was to tell me their Fj didn’t have this problem.

It seems like their relays are being activated through the high beam power on the factory harness. Does anyone have any ideas before I scrap the Morimoto kit?

Thanks for your help!
 

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I have a crazy issue where one side of the headlight comes on intermittently. To test, I have switched each component from one side to another, checking ground, and still cant get both headlights to turn on at the same time 100%. I know it comes with the warranty, but this is annoying and I like to fix it. Anyone is having or have had this sort of issue?
 

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Yet another update.

So my RGB halos started to fail with some LED chips randomly flickering from the color they were set on to other colors. No problem it’s under warranty, knowing this will be the final time I can remove my shrouds I ordered new ones as well as a set of RGB demon eyes that work with my Bluetooth controller already controlling the halos. Well everything comes in and bam no clear plastic lense in one of my shrouds, a bit aggravating but they send me a new one with expedited shipping I paid for. Meanwhile I discovered the brackets I bought for the demon eyes don’t fit and after contacting them they tell me they don’t make them for Mini D2S 3.0’s even though it’s clearly an option on the website. Then when the replacement shroud comes in surprise no clear lense again.

Good times.

So I drilled a small hole in the top of the projector housing and threaded a bolt in to secure the demon eye, works beautifully. Second I took the dremel to the housing and milled a bigger slot out for all the control wires, bam it works flawlessly. Third I put a blade on the Dremel and cut the shroud down to fit perfectly and hit everything with flat black header paint after sanding, gorgeous.

I bench test everything prior to final assembly just because this has been a complete dick dance from the word go, works beautifully through all color cycles and the separate channels for the halos and demon eyes function flawlessly through the Bluetooth controller on my iPhone.

I’ll post the finished product after my replacement, replacement, replacement shroud comes in so I can do the drivers side.
 

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Alright hopefully this is the last update I have on this set of lights until I decide to upgrade to 4.0’s at some point in the distant future.

Finally finished the updates and refits to my damaged lights and got them back in action last night with new demon eyes installed and upgraded halos replacing the failed ones. They communicate beautifully and the clarity is awesome.
 

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Wondering if anyone has recently installed the HID kit from TRS. They've changed the design somewhat since this original installation writeup. There is now a single compression seal that fits between the projector and the OEM reflector. Behind that, the adapter plate and lock ring. Instead of using a spring to hold the bulb in place, there is now a single plastic threaded retaining cap that is supposed to cinch down against the lock ring, sandwiching the bulb. However, there is not enough exposed thread available, so the retaining cap bottoms out on the lock ring before it compresses the bulb, leaving the bulb loose and flopping around in the fixture. I'm at wit's end with this. Anyone have this version of the kit and do a successful installation?
 

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Answering my own question here--maybe this will help someone else down the line. The lock ring (blue) needs some room to turn, so grinding away the inside diameter of the OEM reflector allows it to cinch much farther than I thought. Finally managed to seat the projector deep enough that the retaining cap threads fully on, compressing the bulb. I didn't like the compression seal pinching all that wiring and I the wire bundle was interfering with the fit, so I added a grommet to the reflector for the wires. It's still a VERY tight fit to get the igniter attached, but it fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #730
Answering my own question here--maybe this will help someone else down the line. The lock ring (blue) needs some room to turn, so grinding away the inside diameter of the OEM reflector allows it to cinch much farther than I thought. Finally managed to seat the projector deep enough that the retaining cap threads fully on, compressing the bulb. I didn't like the compression seal pinching all that wiring and I the wire bundle was interfering with the fit, so I added a grommet to the reflector for the wires. It's still a VERY tight fit to get the igniter attached, but it fits.
Sorry, I don't even follow my own thread much anymore... but Matt from TRS made a D2S 4.0 video for the FJ Cruiser housing. In the video he grinds down the entire rear of the housing to make it flat. I think you both achieved the same solution :)


John
 

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I'm trying to get access to "EDIT" my opening post as my retrofit from almost 9 years ago is becoming slightly irrelevant. The ballasts / wiring harness / bulbs have all changed from the pics I've posted. The overall process is relatively unchanged though.

Also, I am finally upgrading my Morimoto D2S 2.0's to the new Morimoto Bi-LED 2.0's... guess I'm a sucker for that version 2 life, ha didn't even realize that until I typed this. I'm looking forward to ditching the wiring harness / ballasts / bulbs. Not sure if the LED's will squeeze out every bit of performance as the new HID Morimoto D2S 5.0's but I'm willing to be an early adopter and report back to this thread.

John
 

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Looking forward to hearing your report. I am really pleased with the HIDs, but LED tech is moving fast.

I'm trying to get access to "EDIT" my opening post as my retrofit from almost 9 years ago is becoming slightly irrelevant. The ballasts / wiring harness / bulbs have all changed from the pics I've posted. The overall process is relatively unchanged though.

Also, I am finally upgrading my Morimoto D2S 2.0's to the new Morimoto Bi-LED 2.0's... guess I'm a sucker for that version 2 life, ha didn't even realize that until I typed this. I'm looking forward to ditching the wiring harness / ballasts / bulbs. Not sure if the LED's will squeeze out every bit of performance as the new HID Morimoto D2S 5.0's but I'm willing to be an early adopter and report back to this thread.

John
 

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I'm trying to get access to "EDIT" my opening post as my retrofit from almost 9 years ago is becoming slightly irrelevant. The ballasts / wiring harness / bulbs have all changed from the pics I've posted. The overall process is relatively unchanged though.

Also, I am finally upgrading my Morimoto D2S 2.0's to the new Morimoto Bi-LED 2.0's... guess I'm a sucker for that version 2 life, ha didn't even realize that until I typed this. I'm looking forward to ditching the wiring harness / ballasts / bulbs. Not sure if the LED's will squeeze out every bit of performance as the new HID Morimoto D2S 5.0's but I'm willing to be an early adopter and report back to this thread.

John
I'm interested in how this goes for you also. I'm planning to redo my headlights this spring and if their is a way to ditch the ballasts and wiring harness and get the same performace, that would be awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #734
Looking forward to hearing your report. I am really pleased with the HIDs, but LED tech is moving fast.
I almost pulled the trigger on the v1 LED's when TRS released them last year but the reviews were not overwhelming. Then I almost pulled the trigger on the D2S 4.0's but when the 5.0's came out they were even better! After talking to TRS about the v2 LED's I am confident that they have worked out some of the width complaints and the hot spot is better than the 4.0's. I too am interested in loosing some of the hardware of HIDs. Heck, anything should be an upgrade from my still performing great D2S 2.0's :)
 

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I'm trying to get access to "EDIT" my opening post as my retrofit from almost 9 years ago is becoming slightly irrelevant. The ballasts / wiring harness / bulbs have all changed from the pics I've posted. The overall process is relatively unchanged though.

Also, I am finally upgrading my Morimoto D2S 2.0's to the new Morimoto Bi-LED 2.0's... guess I'm a sucker for that version 2 life, ha didn't even realize that until I typed this. I'm looking forward to ditching the wiring harness / ballasts / bulbs. Not sure if the LED's will squeeze out every bit of performance as the new HID Morimoto D2S 5.0's but I'm willing to be an early adopter and report back to this thread.

John
Have you had a chance to install the Bi-LED's yet? Received mine, but haven't undertaken the install yet.
 

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Have you had a chance to install the Bi-LED's yet? Received mine, but haven't undertaken the install yet.
Mine arrive from TRS today :) Probably going to take at least a month to install as I need to paint the shrouds to color match the current white buckets. I'm just curious to see what they look like in the flesh finally.
 

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I took advantage of the Black Friday sale TRS was having and purchased their FJ kit. I've had it for a while. Just trying to decide on a color scheme. Possibly a matte metallic grey reflector and matte black shrouds. I'll be adding a DB Customz grill as well. I have a 07 Titanium.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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Hi folks, I was thinking of doing a HID retrofit on my FJ, I really like the way these lights look and I have done enough research to feel comfortable in doing this myself. The question I have is how well do these lights hold up to off-road use? I understand that there is a mechanical component that is used for high beam with HID and I am wondering if this get affected by bouncing off road. Or would I be better off in looking at LED? I apologize in advance for the newbie questions, thanks
 

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I just had a quick question and I think this is the most relevant thread: would a heat gun do the trick for the lens removal or does it need to go in the oven? I'm trying to actually repair the shutter on my Spyder headlights (yeah I know, go ahead and laugh at the dumb purchase), and I need to remove the lens so I'm not doing a ship-in-a-bottle style repair (cus i've been trying it that way and it aint gonna happen).
 
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