Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello again! After 9 years I'm back with a new retrofit thread and of course I'm going to do a how-to build process again :)

I've enjoyed almost a decade of amazing performance out of my Morimoto D2S 2.0 HIDs from The Retrofit Source but I knew it was time to upgrade. I keep an eye out on the new offering from TRS every year. I debated heavily over choosing the D2S 4.0's vs the MLED 1.0's a couple years ago. I wanted the new new of LEDs but the reviews left me weary of the performance when they finally hit some youtube channels. Thinking that I should stick with HID's, I simply missed the boat on the Black Friday sale in 2018 on the D2S 4.0's... luckily. Fast-forward to Black Friday 2019 and I see the TRS now offers a D2S 5.0 HID version as well as an MLED 2.0 version. The revisions on the MLED 2.0 seem to be extensive and now TRS is claiming similar performance to the D2S 5.0 HIDs. I decided that was good enough for me and that I'd be an early adopter. Read on to find out the how's and why's... ENJOY!

Why MLED 2.0?

PROS:

  1. Slightly cheaper price tag by $100... The MLED 2.0 all in with shrouds and lock ring tool = $385. The D2S 5.0 kit with top of the line 50W ballast, Osram CBB bulbs, shrouds and lock ring tool = $485 (msrp pricing per TRS website on Jan 2020)
  2. No additional ballasts and relay wiring kit needed = MLED 2.0 only has a driver module per side and H4 splitters required
  3. Instant "on", no warming up like HIDs (small win, but a nice thing about LED)
CONS:
  1. Physically larger and requires a slight "window" to be dremel'd into the OEM bucket for fitment
  2. The Apollo 3.0 shroud doesn't sit as close as I'd like to the OEM bucket for a cleaner look (I'd like to find out from TRS what is the deepest shroud they offer as there's about 1/2" gap to OEM bucket)
  3. Unproven reliability vs HID projectors
I'll update this list if needed as time goes on. The attached images show the bigger size of the MLED vs the D2S 2.0
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
How do the MLED 2.0's install?

Let's assume you've read my HID thread and simply summarize the basics on any retrofit in the next (3) steps, then we'll go onto the "extra" step of cutting out a small hole in the bucket for the LED projector fan.
  1. Bake headlight assembly @ 265 degrees for 7 minutes to separate lens from housing
  2. Remove the OEM bulb and holder; remove the bucket from the housing by completely loosing the horizontal and vertical adjustment screws, then "pop" the bucket out of the housing at the ball and socket swivel. Be careful the little black plastic retainer nuts slide out of the bucket
  3. Using a belt sander, remove almost all of raised plastic where the blue lock ring needs to seat and tighten
1120806


Vertical and horizontal leveling screws that must be backed out completely to remove bucket
1120807


The black plastic retaining nuts will fall out... also note the "ball socket" male end that must be "popped out" of the housing
1120808


The "ball socket" female end in the housing... I'd recommend placing a very thin layer of high temp lube over the "ball" end before reassembly to ensure free movement when final adjustment occurs.
1120809


Slight amount of belt sanding to the back of the bucket is required to level out the plastic
1120810


OEM plastic before sanding
1120811


OEM plastic after sanding; showing all necessary hardware included for install
1120812


Sand down bucket just enough for the alignment ring to be flush to the surface but still perform it's function of falling into place within the slots
1120813


1120814


Up next, install the spacer washer
1120815
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Install the blue lock ring for test fitment...note that there is no contact with the blue lock ring to the housing (due to spacer washer) and everything can be tightened down
1120816


Using the optional lock ring tool to test the fitment when tightened
1120817


EXTRA STEP for MLED 2.0 install:
4. Cut out a small window in the bucket to allow the MLED fan to "fit into" the bucket and allow the projector's threaded tail to sit flush
1120818


Yes, it's a deep/big projector but install is still relatively easy
1120819


1120820


1120821


5. Now it's time for final install... install the OEM bucket back into the black housing. (not pictured)
6. Install the shrouds. They simply click in place onto the projector! tip = you can add a drop of silicone to each of the prongs of the shroud before clicking it into place on the projector for extra security
1120824


Please note from the opening paragraph in post #1 that the Apollo 3.0 shrouds are not as deep as I'd like and do not come as close to the bucket as I'd prefer for an absolute clean look... I'm not unhappy with the fitment though as when you look at them on the vehicle the gap is not as pronounced as in these following pics
1120826


1120827


7. Clean up everything one last time, add a thin layer of rubber sealant to the housing if needed and re-bake them together... again 265 degrees for 7 minutes
1120828


8. Stand back and admire your work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
One side down, one side to go... rinse and repeat instructions
1120845


1120846


The MLED 2.0 projector takes up almost every inch of OEM bucket!
1120847
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
9. Wiring install... the LED drivers are very simple. There's an output that goes to the projector, then a HIGH and LOW connector that attaches to the TJ H4 splitter. The other end of the splitter simply connects to your OEM 3-prong female harness
1120838


1120843


10. Wire polarity and beam hookup
BLACK / BLUE pigtail is for LOW on the LED driver module ---> BLACK is " + " ---> BLUE is " - "
BLACK / RED pigtail is for HIGH on the LED driver module ---> BLACK is " + " ---> RED is " - "

TIP = There is a "+" and "-" on the pigtails coming from the LED driver module (they are hard to see and I colored them with a silver pen)

Please note in the high beam pic below I have the connector plugged in the WRONG way... the black wire should click into the "+" side; you have to look hard to see the + and - before I colored my silver with a sharpie to know for final assembly
1120841


1120844

No need to cut your headlamp boots anymore!
1121138
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
11. Reinstall into the vehicle
1121139


12. Align the beam patterns. My method is to park 25 ft from a wall > measure distance from center of projector to the ground > mark with tape on the wall a height that is 2-3 inches lower than your original headlight to ground measurement. This ensures you are not blinding on coming drivers with and without a load in the cargo area... but adjust accordingly if the load is heavy. Also adjust your left/right hotspot so that the distance between your hotspots are roughly the same distance as your headlight center to center.
1120850
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Output pics!

I am very happy with the color banding (~6000K I believe is the spec) and the cutoff line with the MLED 2.0's. I also feel like the width is very adequate and there's WAY less light streaking in the foreground than my old D2S 2.0's. Unfortunately I don't have anyone in the area with the new D2S 5.0's / Osram CBB bulbs / 50W ballasts to compare.

1120852


1120853


1120854
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
@NestahEdition where you at? Last time I did this I believe that you were just getting into the retrofit game :) Love to hear your thoughts on the new MLED 2.0's if you have or haven't installed them yet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Great writeup! Looks like a little more work to install vs. the older projectors, but I love the reduced wiring.
Thanks! The sanding and small cutout are definitely a touch more work but super easy to do. In all honestly it added about 10min of labor. From what I hear about the D2S projectors though, is that the sanding is now a normal step :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,049 Posts
I did not sand the reflector backend raised plastic and did not use the (too thick) blue lock ring.

I used the (thinner) lock rings from the spare part (SKU: SP32) hardware bag for mini D2S 4.0 projector. I also doubled the centric silicone washer.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top