Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

41 - 60 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Everything arrived on the 29th in good shape. Thanks Jason. I am going to get it installed at a body shop. Both shops I talked to suggested I get the bumper and have them replace it at which point they would fix the known damage and look for anything else. I am going to do the winch and lights install myself hopefully before the snow flies..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
463 Posts
I put a Demello front on in 2008. Have hit 4 deer and 2 hogs since - didn't even knock the bedliner off the bumper.

Mounting the control box is up to the installer - mine is on a waterproofed pigtail inside the bumper. What I do like about the Demello is the way it fits skid plates up and makes a noice smooth transition. It also can be unbolted and by leaving in 2 of the bottom side bolts, it swings down like a hinge. EZ to work behind it that way or fuss with the winch.

Everyone has an ass and an opinion - I just liked the Demello look and the approach angle of the underside. It's great pushing through 10' tall trees and brush or desert scrub. If you are worried about the winch, my original winch was a 12K and it never got in a bind even with the angled fairlead the Demello runs - and I usually wind up winching friends or one of my tractors out of mud yearly.

Most bumpers are similar in the end; most use similar mounting points and serve same purpose. I just happen to detest chunky squared off bumpers that catch on logs and have trouble letting things slip past or under the FJ - probably because I spend decent amount of time where there are no trails, surveying oilfield stuff in deep woods. That doesn't even come into play running in desert West Texas though.

Don't know if that helps you or not, but there it is...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,788 Posts
I will be using this as my guide.

https://trail4runner.com/2018/04/10/switch-pro-9100-power-tray-installation-4runner/

Probably over-engineered for my needs but this has turned into my hobby. I anticipate having questions. Comments welcome.
Plan you your wire runs carefully. What may seem like an easy/short run may cause difficulties later or be in the way of servicing something else later on.

I try and follow factory runs to keep everything clean (I hate rats nests) oh yeah....wire loom is your friend.

I would also draw a wiring map with notes for reference at a later date, we can't remember everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Installed a new firewall boot. Blood, sweat and fear. There is some sharp metal under the dash. Probably should have explored using the existing grommet but once you drill the hole.... Struggled mightily trying to get the 1.25 hole with regular drill bits. Then I discovered step bits and went and got one at the local tool shack. Things then proceeded quickly. Drilled the hole, de-burred with a dremel, dabbed rustoleum on the bare metal. Then installed the wire into the boot and the boot into the hole. Next I am going to start practicing stripping wire.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #50
I figured the best way to move this forward was to lay out everything on the floor and look at it every day. My first assumption is that if I disconnect the negative battery cable first and re-attach it last I will minimize the bad things that could happen. No audio cables will be used in the actual installation. The wrench represents the battery terminals.

I am using this as a guide https://trail4runner.com/2018/04/10/switch-pro-9100-power-tray-installation-4runner/

The photos in the article don't show what the author actually did, see the stubby or no stubby section.

My proposed actions
1-Replace the black audio cable with a suitable cable connecting the breaker to the battery positive
2-Replace the black and red audio cable with a suitable cable connecting the breaker to the fuse block
3-Remove the stubby between the switch pro and the fuse block
4-This is the positive from the baja designs lights. The circular connector doesn't fit. I am going to cut off the connector, strip the wire and wrap around the screw. Or should I install a different connector?

I haven't done any electrical work so I would appreciate feedback from those more experienced about my proposed actions.
 

Attachments

·
Desert Moderator
Joined
·
6,043 Posts
I figured the best way to move this forward was to lay out everything on the floor and look at it every day. My first assumption is that if I disconnect the negative battery cable first and re-attach it last I will minimize the bad things that could happen. No audio cables will be used in the actual installation. The wrench represents the battery terminals.

I am using this as a guide https://trail4runner.com/2018/04/10/switch-pro-9100-power-tray-installation-4runner/

The photos in the article don't show what the author actually did, see the stubby or no stubby section.

My proposed actions
1-Replace the black audio cable with a suitable cable connecting the breaker to the battery positive
2-Replace the black and red audio cable with a suitable cable connecting the breaker to the fuse block
3-Remove the stubby between the switch pro and the fuse block
4-This is the positive from the baja designs lights. The circular connector doesn't fit. I am going to cut off the connector, strip the wire and wrap around the screw. Or should I install a different connector?

I haven't done any electrical work so I would appreciate feedback from those more experienced about my proposed actions.
I wouldn't daisy-chain from the switchpro (It also says not to do that in the product docs). Run separate hot wires from the battery.
Also - Switchpro has a fuse in the hot cable, and no need to fuse the output circuits - that's all done electronically.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
I think we are on the same page. I removed the stubby cable for clarity(first pic). So the fuse block would go directly to the breaker and then to the battery and be used for powering non-switched, always-on things like a usb port. Since I currently don't have any plans for powering anything non-switched I may just remove the fuse block (second pic) with the option of adding later.
 

Attachments

·
Desert Moderator
Joined
·
6,043 Posts
I think we are on the same page. I removed the stubby cable for clarity(first pic). So the fuse block would go directly to the breaker and then to the battery and be used for powering non-switched, always-on things like a usb port. Since I currently don't have any plans for powering anything non-switched I may just remove the fuse block (second pic) with the option of adding later.
Makes sense. The 9100 has 4x 35A circuits, which is great. My single ARB shouldn't draw much more than 20A, and my light bars wont draw more than 10A per circuit. I'm pretty close to dropping the coin on the 9100 just to tidy things up more than anything.
I have a home built remote controlled system with 3 x 40A circuits, but it's bulky and I'd like the simplicity and some of the management features of the 9100, especially if I ever buy a fridge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
The best fit of the power tray is to use the location of the two bolt holes used by this bracket. First, what is the black fuse box being held by this bracket?

Should I just modify the bracket by flattening the curved edges and nipping off the hook that is in the bolt hole I want to use? Then I could slip the power tray mount behind the bracket. My concern would be that the bracket would only have one anchor point and could be prone to spinning? Any other solutions? Am I overthinking this?

The second picture shows a test fit using the bracket bolt and tilting the tray up to use the open bolt hole. This looks too high to me.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Tray is installed. I modified the existing bracket by bending the hook up and out of the way of the the hole I wanted to use. Then two bolts to upper inner fender and then the support leg into the lower inner fender. I am currently in a mild tizzy because I am unsure of the orientation of the 4 pin cable cable that connects the switch to the module and I don't want to force it. If anyone had a photo of their install (SP-9100 ) that would be appreciated otherwise I may talk to Switch-pros before I break something. I believe the green wire is front/passenger and the white wire is front/driver but it hasn't clicked into place.
1116622
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Still plugging away. I have learned a lot. I've been very deliberate (aka slow). I have the switch installed and powered up. Next is installing the lights.

Yesterday I got the double speed left blinker issue which could indicate a short issue. I started by replacing the two front blinker bulbs and that resolved the issue. Very thankful because I was not looking forward to disconnecting the switch as a troubleshooting item.

Note: I may adjust the position of the control panel. At night it reflects in the mirror and is a bit distracting. Hopefully next post will be a photo of lit lights installed in the bumper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
This entire thread illustrates why I'm partial to a brush guard. Runnng lights, fog lights, both LED and others and the brackets and bars to mount them, winches, fairleads, harnesses and panels with regulators, lifts and many more options for everything may be a tad much to properly process clearly. I need to minimize redundancy of upgrades to improvements. I share the fear of deer smash, and it causes anxiety with predisposition to overly pre-plan each process. Just how heavy and big was the one the OP hit? Those around me are about 300lbs.and ubiquitous.
 
41 - 60 of 61 Posts
Top