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Discussion Starter #1
Changed the engine oil yesterday.
Mentioned that I have white residue on oil cap. I know it sometime appear when vehicle is store due to moisture build up, but I drive the truck every day. Drained oil was fine without any trace of milky.
Did anyone had similar issue?
 

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that is very common in cold climates too if you drive short trips or a lot of stop n go driving. condensation builds up in the crankcase and reacts with the oil. I would suggest a new PCV valve and a good long drive on the freeway to let temps and pressures build up and burn of the residual water. Some mechanics will try and scam you into some new gaskets or other things.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know my mechanic for over 7 years now. He is a good friend of mine, so he would not offer me something which is not necessary.
Good point on PCV and a long trip, but how long would be enough, 1hr, 2hr?
P.S. I use my truck as a Daily Driving and it's ~22km per day (round trip to work and back home), so it's just over 10km at 5am and then anoter at 3pm. And yes, it's bellow -15 here in Canada between December and March.
 

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1 hour non stop highway miles should do the trick getting the oil hot enough to eliminate any condensation.
 

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I have a heated garage so even at -40, no residue from condensation

The oil you use will make a difference too. The additive package in most heavy duty diesel engine oils, and some synthetics that meet ACEA A3/B3/B4 specs, will also do a good job of minimizing or eliminating that condensation froth

I have run Mobil 1 European Car Formula 0W-40, the made in Germany Castrol Syntec 0W-30, and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 (Summer oil) with good results. My oil fill neck and cap are absolutely spotless
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I use Motul 5W40 now
 

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I just changed my oil last weekend and noticed a tiny amount of residue under the oil fill cap. As an engineer I do all of my own maintenance religiously and the truck has had Mobil 1 since new. I believe it is just due to cold weather and nothing to worry about.
 

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Hows your tailpipe? Any change in MPG?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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It is most likely condensation. However, I would just eyeball the anti-freeze/coolant level. If it is low, keep an eye on it. A long 1 hour highway drive would be the last recommendation if you do actually have a blown head gasket. In my youth, with lots of tinkering under the hood and trips to the track, that milky whiteness in the oil was a dreaded sign.
 

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I use Motul 5W40 now
I'm not familiar with Motul but according to the website it meets the tough ACEA specs.

One thing I do have on my FJ is a winter front I made myself to cover the grille. That makes a huge difference in how quickly the motor warms up, and the heat output at highway speeds.

Especially in temps below -20 C, you will notice a big difference. Never block the rad itself, that can create an overheat unless the temps are consistently -30 and colder
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It is most likely condensation. However, I would just eyeball the anti-freeze/coolant level. If it is low, keep an eye on it. A long 1 hour highway drive would be the last recommendation if you do actually have a blown head gasket. In my youth, with lots of tinkering under the hood and trips to the track, that milky whiteness in the oil was a dreaded sign.
The oil I changed 2 days ago was fine and didn't had any signs of water (whitish), so this is fine. I hope it's condensation.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm not familiar with Motul but according to the website it meets the tough ACEA specs.

One thing I do have on my FJ is a winter front I made myself to cover the grille. That makes a huge difference in how quickly the motor warms up, and the heat output at highway speeds.

Especially in temps below -20 C, you will notice a big difference. Never block the rad itself, that can create an overheat unless the temps are consistently -30 and colder
Do you have a picture of it?
 

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Some guys were posting about a very similar issue over on ih8mud in his 80. So it seems common in cold weather.
 

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Do you have a picture of it?
Nothing too fancy. I took some black rubber felt, the type used in paper mills to transfer pulp unto the rollers. Cut it up to fit over the lower grille and upper grille

Here is one photo I have of this



Especially in temps below -20 C, huge difference in heater output. Around town, warms up much quicker

Again, never block the actual rad unless the temps are consistently -30 and colder. Blocking the grille is very safe in that the fan can still pull in air if it needs to. Even in temps at or above freezing, blocking the grille will usually not result in things running too warm
 

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Not sure if your motor oil uses wax in its formula but I have seen wax build up in hydraulic units that are kept outside. One 50 gallon reservoir I opened up to inspect and flush had handfulls of wax (white in color) scattered about it.
 

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Did the tank have a dessicant breather on it? A lot of moisture is introduced into agitator gear boxes, and hydraulic systems, through the breather/vent system. Only a dessicant breather system will control that

I've always spec'd synthetic hydraulic oils, mostly phosphate esters if the equipment is compatible with it
 

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No dessicant breather, just your regular mesh screen. There was a steam radiator close to it but it really didn't do much to keep it warm. I'm sure the water level was way beyond the saturation point because the inside of the tank was seriously pitted. The wax looked like big globs of lard. Polyol Ester is far superior to mineral oil in terms of the viscosity index, shear and lubrication. However, you gotta keep it dry. A bonus is it's fire resistant. More expensive though.
 
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