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** EDIT ** - found them! <3 Ordered. Can I send you a Christmas card if they work :)

Any chance you can link me to the front bump stops? Can't seem to find them on that site.
Front bumpstop replacements:
https://wheelersoffroad.com/product/toyota/tundra-182669/2007-tundra/suspension-261954/miscellaneous-suspension-parts-24936/wheelers-front-superbump-bumpstop-set/


Spacers (rubbing will be worse without a few of these):

https://wheelersoffroad.com/product/toyota/tundra-182669/2007-tundra/suspension-261954/wheelers-off-road-341733/superbump-spacers/
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Couple questions....
Are you sure you have OME suspension? If so, how do you know its OME, but not which springs?

Where is it rubbing? On the plastic fender flare, or the inner steel wheel well? If its rubbing on the plastic flare, it creates more questions...
What rims are you using? What is the spacing? Are you running spacers?

I ask because I have the OME 3" lift with the 886 & 896 springs. I also run 37's. But my wheels fit inside the wheel well. My truck is heavy with all the bumpers, winch, sliders, tent, gear, etc. And I rarely hit the top in the front. Even after getting air on occasion.
Making sure your wheel spacing is correct is key. As well as suspension. OME makes a 3" lift that is actually softer than stock. Springs are cheap. Get some 886&896 springs as well as some bump stops, make sure your shocks are good, and ditch any of those goofy wheel spacers, if you have any.
I know it's OME because it says "OLD MAN EMU" on the yellow shocks :grin Also, the previous owner gave me the boxes, but neither give any indication of the spring rate.

Factory rim, no spacers.

I don't hit the fender arches unless i'm descending a sand dune sideways or at a 45 degree angle with some moderate speed. On a straight up or straight down, I never make contact. It's a different type of driving than it seems that you're doing.

Shocks I've tested out and they're not leaking and seem to have good rebound. I'm fairly convinced the shocks are fine.

I've found a lower control arm bushing a bit worn, so I've ordered poly bushings and a front bump stop kit. I'll install everything when they arrive and post an update.
 

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I know it's OME because it says "OLD MAN EMU" on the yellow shocks :grin Also, the previous owner gave me the boxes, but neither give any indication of the spring rate.

Factory rim, no spacers.

I don't hit the fender arches unless i'm descending a sand dune sideways or at a 45 degree angle with some moderate speed. On a straight up or straight down, I never make contact. It's a different type of driving than it seems that you're doing.

Shocks I've tested out and they're not leaking and seem to have good rebound. I'm fairly convinced the shocks are fine.

I've found a lower control arm bushing a bit worn, so I've ordered poly bushings and a front bump stop kit. I'll install everything when they arrive and post an update.
Good luck. If that doesn't work for you, and because your shocks aren't adjustable, then the next cheapest option is to throw the Bandi 1/2" body lift on to give you that little extra space you need.

Also - to the guys out there that haven't driven big dunes - it's different, and it takes its toll on the inside of your fenders - take our word for it!

I won't speak for the OP, but my linings take a hiding from directly above the wheel to about 45* back, also the steel fender itself (and the pinch weld).
It's all to do with speed and undulations in the sand. The trick with big dunes & soft sand is momentum, and you don't get much of that that mincing around in 4L at 5 km/h. Also, at the bottom of a 30* slipface when all the weight of the truck is on one front wheel, you'll get a lot of compression in that corner, and no, the answer is not to go slower, because you're riding the sand down the slip face, and you need to move faster than the sand to maintain control to keep the nose first. On exiting a slipface, sometimes you have to do it at an angle to clear a tree or a limestone outcrop or to avoid being hung up in a bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I would like to post an update. The bigger bump stops combined with replacing the LCA bushings (just used MOOG) - an incredible difference. I had to bail on a slip face and made quite a fast decent at a 45* angle.. all the weight came down on one front wheel, and there was almost zero rubbing except a small piece of the plastic fender liner. It also seemed that my LCA bushings were part of the issue because they were so worn - replacing them seemed to give my car a little more lift (the old bushings were were shot!).

All in all, I would say that these bump stops were worth every penny. I will add (may sound obvious to most, but just to document) that you cannot use these unless you have a lift - they are that big! (edit: picture added)

Therefore, if you're a big duner, install these: (Thanks Thane for the reference)

 

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Good result. One other thing for anyone else reading this forum, wheel spacing makes a big difference on the FJ. I had 30mm (1.25 inch) spacers on my wheels and installed 285 tires and could not turn the wheels to full lock without getting rubbing. I took the spacers off (wheels now closer to the middle of the car) and I was able to turn the wheels from lock to lock without any rubbing issue. (Still got rubbing on the top of the fender and so changed the tires back to 275's). But it is worth noting that as well as top to bottom issues, there are also side to side ones at play. Cheers, Al


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