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I ran these same shocks, without any issues or noise. I think you're going to need to preload more, even if it has a temporary rake to the rear. It will settle, but I had a minimal rear lift (+1"), and had more preload originally, then added as the front end settled.

If all the bolts are tight, I'm wondering if there's not enough preload, and essentially you're tapping the top of the coil when driving. I'm not sure if possible, but I've experienced on other vehicles.

Otherwise, I'd check the sway bar relocates to ensure they pushed the sway bar away from the coil. If you've not experienced the noise off road, odds are the UCA isn't hitting the coil.

Trying to cover all the bases. These threads pop up from time to time, and it's usually a simple issue.
 

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Sorry for redundancy. iPhone Autoguide App is now the biggest POS App ever.

Logging on in a few to review entire thread. Assuming it'll be 10-11 Central time before an answer from the gentleman I've requested review the thread, since they're West Coast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I went ahead and spun the collars down until I see barely silver at the top of the threaded shock body. Seems to have lessened the clunking, I thought about this (preloading spring) idea yesterday but didnt want to have it look so "skyward". I will give it some more threads and see if this cures it for good. I wonder if their is a required minimum of threads that should show for these on a stock weight FJ.

Thanks for the assist, sorry to hear about the bad app as well...not all apps are created equal it seems.

Robert
 

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I thought about after my last reply, and I think the free length of the coil is equivalent to the top of the threaded shock body dimension, therefore it's possible that as the vehicle moved up it was "coil tapping".

I'm telling you this, and you'll have to trust me. Preload with the thickness if the locking coil nut width showing, minimum. I'd bet money within a few hundred miles you'll have 3/4" to 1" of thread showing, since I started with 1" (had +1" rear coils at that time) and went up from there, as necessitated on a rebuilt (meaning not new coil, like yours, so not as stiff) set of the exact same shock.

Make sure to engage the locking coil nut, too. I left unengaged for easy adjustment, and noticed it was loosening in the threaded shock body. I've a Moroso spanner wrench, which fits inside the coil tower nice, for easy adjustments, but I think the Radflo comes from grainger, if you don't have one.

Hope it helps. Keep the thread posted to the status of issue, or alleviation of.
 

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Also, of you're ultimate goal is to keep the FJ low, which mine still is and I've an extensive set up, so no shame in (Hahahahaha), CSS can make a set of rear coils custom for your application. I went +1-1.5" and 15% stiffer, and it leveled the FJ with a calculated 2.5" frontal lift.

An idea, as I have no clue your intended purpose.

Another note, should articulation be sought after on the front end, I pulled the sway with 600lb could on another brand, then installed these same shocks with the 700lb coils, and in the OEM width it wasn't noticeable that the sway bar was gone. It'll take some getting used to, and more importantly, I'd only advise if you're any off roader.

Glenn at Radflo has been awesome to deal with, and if you ever have any questions or concerns, you can PM "Radflo" found in supporting vendor section. He replies quick and concisely, and wants to make sure the customer is pleased with his products.

Hope all helps.

Delancy
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I do not have any rear height adding mods done. No spacers or coil/shocks installed. Just the plain old factory setup. So you think I should at least go to a width of the collar (adjustment one not locking collar) for preloading the coil? Wont that give a very high lift on the front end? How much settling can be expected you think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Also, of you're ultimate goal is to keep the FJ low, which mine still is and I've an extensive set up, so no shame in (Hahahahaha), CSS can make a set of rear coils custom for your application. I went +1-1.5" and 15% stiffer, and it leveled the FJ with a calculated 2.5" frontal lift.
This is a good idea, I never wanted to get a tall lift, just stronger spring and better setup all around. What shocks are you running with these rear springs, and do you have the specs you ordered with to have them made? I would also need a person to get in contact with if I pursue this. I like the 15% increase as we haul alot of crap on roof rack and cargo area and all four of my family travel.

Thanks!
 

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Based on my experiences, that'd be a minimum.

There's an inherent lean to the drivers side, and it can be compensated for, but for purposes here, if it were me, I'd start with 1/2" of thread showing. That may sound, and initially look extreme, but it's founded in some experience with.

To give you an idea, though a very different set up, these started at 3/4" and were at a pre-calculated ride height.



They're now at 1 1/2", and I'll be adjusting up another 1/4" to maintain the desired height.

One thing to note. Measure, adjust, then drive around a bit and remeasure. Just dropping from a lift, they're not going to be at their ride height, and even after driving, you will see various measures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
I just took it up to 1/4 showing and it (clunking) hasnt changed at all, almost sounds like the noises are more apparent and more frequent than they were at full bottom. I will go with the 1/2 showing and see how it goes. Your setup must be different because like we stated earlier my instructions say to NOT have more than 1 inch showing. Or am I reading this info wrong?

Robert

1/2 in. of threads showing above locking collar now, rattling (clunking) still apparent over every little manhole cover and bump in the road. Sounds like something is loose. Maybe tomorrow I will go to 3/4 inch exposed. The only thing changing is the ride height it seems, the rattling hasn't changed at all at this time. Maybe i should disconnect the sway bar and see how it goes without that.
 

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Our set ups are very different, was an illustration only.

Robert, I'm at a loss, man. I don't know where geographically speaking, you are, but if you're local, I'd be more than happy to help track it down. Sounds to me like something else is wrong, and no bearing on the coil over.

If you installed, I'd go back over everything, and ensure the sway bar isn't hitting coil, and all else is tight.

You should have a PM, by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I did have a chat with Glenn, he was awesome. And thanks for passing on the info to him (I imagine it was you). Yeah I am going to go back through again slowly and see what I see. Pull the skid off and drive, sway bar and drive so on so forth as well.

Thanks for the info, and I appreciate the assist from everyone thus far! I will keep things going on this thread to inform people in the future.

Robert

BTW, pass on the rear spring info you went with if you can remember or have it still.
 

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You need to closely examine your coilover for rub spots near where the swaybar comes close to it. If I'm not mistaken, the drivers side will be closer and the passenger side. Even though it isn't apparent it's rubbing from a visual examination, the inner part if the swaybar can contact the coil, when you hit bumps. It's hard to simulate the exact same compression/rebound cycle, just from using a a jack
I had this issue and it was difficult to pin it down, until I looked at it more closely.
Other than the swaybar I would actually have to see it
 

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Ordered rear coils from Coil Spring Specialties out of Kansas. I went +1.5" and 15% stiffer. If I remember correctly, they were around $250.

If your goal is to keep the COG low, as it was mine at the time, the specifications will level with a 2.5" frontal lift, and should maintain some semblance to OEM characteristics, without aftermarket UCAs, though I'm a proponent For aftermarket UCAs, regardless of lift height, now.

If ultimately you intend on more lift, then I'd recommend completing the Overland Warehouse kit, as it's taking into consideration the front coilovers, and their rear Radflo set up is tuned to the same.

Wikid (Don) that replies here runs the OW offerings, and there's information
on his build page about. His FJ is the postertoy for OW.

Hope it helps. Glad your conversation with Glenn went well. I like Glenn and have respect for his customer service and I'm glad to have chosen to wear the Radflo's out on mine.

Chris Delancy
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
OK so it has been awhile since I have posted up on my trials and errors with this. First off let me just say Andries from OW has been awesome throughout with this in answering q's and offering up ideas! Radflo even sent out a full set of bearings to replace and try out to cure these sounds as well. Thank you to both sides of the house thus far!!!

Ok so I now have the OW off and looked at the original bearings, there is no wear no loose play in the ball parts of the bearings. They look very solid, are hard to swivel still (read tight) and the snap rings are snug as hell also. I have noticed that the gap between the lower coils have some corrosion between them like they have contacted and rubbed the paint off a bit. Is it possible that because I don't have any extra weight on these 2.5's that I am not compressing them enough to keep those coils in contact all the time? Maybe the clicking/rattle is the springs hitting? I don't really think this is it because it sounds like a continuing clunk until it stops on its own, instead of a one time clunk over each bump...like how wheel hop sounds would be, without the actual wheel hop if this makes any sense.....I might just need to man up and mail these things back for inspection by the professionals...just sucks I am overseas.


Thanks to all on this again!

Robert
 

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I can't imagine an issue that'd require sending back.

Do you have a way to post pics? Email to me if you can't post here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ill get some pics taken and send them your way or try to post them...its getting late here, Ill reengage tomorrow.

Robert
 

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PM'ing email address in the event you have issues posting pics. I'll post on your behalf, should you see fit.
 

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I do have the 2.5 Radflos from OW but they do not include the external resi. I do not know why my photo entered sideways.
I'm perusing through thread in its entirety, and I believe your sway bar is capable if hitting the coil based on this pic.

Edited: Re-Read first. Type second.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
Sway bar was removed from truck from the begining of troubleshooting. No change in noise level was made. I still do not use the bar. I dont know what marks you are referring too but i did scratch the coils on the original install.

Robert

Ok maybe not removed from very begining bit removed a while ago. Sorry for the confusion.
 

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I contend you need a 600-650 front coil so that you can preload and keep the coils from tapping. Either that, or order your rear coils, to lift the rear, and then preload front coils to match the height.

I realize I deleted a critical portion of my previous post, but give a little time for me to get an email reply.
 
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