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Please Help!

7K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  FJtest 
#1 ·
2008 4x4 AT. While on a long trip my ABS, CEL, VSC OFF, VSC TRAC, and BRAKE lights all came on intermittently. By the time we arrived home they were on all the time. Shortly thereafter the speedometer stopped working. I researched on here hoping to find a solution. So far I have cleared codes to make sure it wasn’t a fluke, no change. I change all 4 wheel speed sensors, I changed the stop light switch, no changes. The codes have been somewhat random depending on the day I hook up the code reader, but 3 are consistent. C1223 “malfunction in ABS control system”, C0215 “Left rear speed sensor signal malfunction”, and C0210 “right rear speed sensor”. I also have checked the wheel bearings and they seem fine, I have traced the speed sensor wiring the best I can and have found nothing too obvious there. I am unsure how to test the sensors. I also found that the Right Rear Sensor was dirty and wet, so i replaced both rear axle seals. They are both clean and new now. I am at my wits end with these lights, and would like to know my speed! Also may be important to note, the odometer is not working.
 

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#6 ·
This is potentially a complicated analysis, with several sensors, multiple ECUs, and lots of wiring involved. There is no guarantee that identifying the root cause of the problem won't ultimately require an oscilloscope or Toyota factory diagnostic tester. Regardless, let's start with the basics. You mentioned that you recently replaced the alternator, battery, and all four wheel sensors.

Questions:
1. Confirm that the intermittent CEL and OBD codes first appeared BEFORE the battery and alternator were replaced.
2. The replacement wheel speed sensors were OEM Toyota parts, or aftermarket?
3. What were the symptoms that triggered replacement of the alternator?
4. Has the vehicle ever been flooded, or show corrosion under the floor mats?
5.Has the vehicle ever been registered in any state where the roads are salted during the winter?
6. Is there any evidence (droppings, nesting materials, etc.) that rodents might have been at work chewing wiring insulation in the engine bay? This is a common problem in rural areas.

Before starting any diagnostics, verify that the electrolyte level in all cells is correct (assuming a conventional wet-cell battery). Remove both battery clamps, and clean both the battery posts and the ID of the clamps with a ScotchBrite pad until clean, bright metal is exposed. If the clamps are corroded or deformed so they can't tightly clamp the battery posts, replace them.

First, let's verify battery voltage & charging system output. You'll need a good quality digital multimeter, capable of accurately resolving millivolts. This will not be a $15 swap-meet meter.

1. Measure battery voltage (at the battery clamps) after the vehicle sits overnight; it should be 12.6-12.9 volts at around 68F.
2. Measure battery voltage at 2,000 RPM, with no electrical loads turned on; voltage should be 13.2-14.8V.
3. Measure battery voltage at 2.000 RPM, with the headlights on, HVAC blower at MAX, and wet the windshield and turn the wipers on high speed; voltage should remain above 13.0V.
 
#8 ·
Incredible information here.
I was dealing with the same issues and I started checking off the list of things to diagnose the problems.
Consequently, read a forum post from 2009 about a fix and it worked Dreams for me. Lights never came back on.
Disconnect the battery-> press on brakes for 10-15 seconds -> connect battery -> no lights
I was flabbergasted that is actually worked, also read with OBD and no more codes. ECU issue i guess
 
#9 ·
Please Help!!
BL -

You posted an URGENT!! plea for help ... and several attempted to provide troubleshooting assistance.

Did you resolve the problem?

If so, what was the root cause, and what was done to correct it?

Part of the usefulness of the FJ Forum is the sharing of problem solving information, and it sure would be interesting to hear an update on your OBDII issues.
 
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