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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


^^Current ^^



After 7 years of being in a Volvo S40 I wanted to get back into an SUV. Before the Volvo I had a modified Jeep Liberty, I didn't want to get another jeep because they have become in my mind too proud of their product for what you get. FJ had all that I wanted.


Picked it up Sep 16th. I hinted at the wife that I probably want to add some stuff to it.


About 2 weeks, I took the wife with me to one of the last dirt roads in the town we live in and dipped into the mud. Wife was hooked and joking asked me if you had a list of things you wanted to add. I responded yep and I'll send you the link to the Google doc. She then gave me the ok to buy stuff. Not only to buy stuff but get a large chunk of it done by the time we go hunting in December.

Well didn't want to make her mad. :bigthumb:


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November 9th, approx. 50 days after purchase, I planed on this taking about 3-6 months to put on.


November 16, happy wife happy life @ Bridgeport OHV park.

What is currently on it.
Base vehicle
- Off-road package
- Base convince package


Suspension
- OME front/rear heavy <- Removed blew 3 of 4 shocks/struts
- Toytec 2.5 Coil overs
- Metal Tech Offset Rear Lower Links
- Metal Tech rear long travel
- Icon 2.0 rear long travel shocks
- Sway bar disconnects <- removed pending a better pin solution.
- Camburg UCA
- Removed front sway bar


Armor
- Ironman Commercial Winch Bar FJ Cruiser
- All pro rock sliders, standard
- Budbuilt 5 piece combo, bare metal
- Budbuilt dif guard, bare metal
- Washer bottle guard - |details here|
- Front lower link skids
- Rear lower link skid
- Rear shock armor from fjtoymanoffroad
- Garage built rear bumper - Build starts |here|


Recovery
- Warn M8000
- Synthetic rope |install here|
- Ironman Large recovery kit (snatch strap, winch extension, tree protector, shackles and block.
- Treds recovery ramps mounted to the roof of the FJ.
- 48" Hi Lift jack mounted on the front bumper.
- Jakjaw high lift adapter.
- Hi Lift jack base plate
- 8k manual winch
- Smittybuilt compressor
- Smittlybuilt rear shackle
- Lots-o-tools


Stowage
- Springtail FJ cruiser console straddle
- Ryobi soft tool bag (the ones that come with cordless drills)
- 5 x collapsible crates
- Rear cargo shelf/organizer |Install Here|
- Warrior platform rack. |Install Here|
- 48" x 24" Rear hitch basket.
- 2 x Roof mounted Jerry can holders. |Build here|
- Swing out (Build starts here)


Electrical
- 15" antenna <- Old one hit the garage door. Removed and OEM renstalled.
- Cobra 75
- Icom 2300h Install starts |here|
- 4ft Firestick CB
- 4ft Firestick 2m
- 4" LED flood lights x 2 (bumper mount) |install here|
- 32" Cheap light bar ($30 on amazon) |install here|
- LED Map lights (red/driver, white passenger) |install here|
- LED dome lights
- Nuvi GPS, mounted above the rear mirror on custom bracket. |Install Phase 1| | Install Phase 2|
- 120v inverter, simple cup holder inverter.



Engine
- PRG snorkel <- |install here| (Learn from my mistakes)


Tires
- 285/70/17s BFG KM2s tire discussion thread (destroyed)|here|
- 285/70/17s BFG AT Went to the AT and haven't noticed any major off-road performance difference. This is including deep mud and clay.


Misc
- 4x 20L Nato Jerrycans
- Fire Extinguisher
- 2 spare inner tie rods and 1 outer
- Home made roof rack air dam. |link|
- Grand Tour Medium RTT
- 3500 lb rated camp trailer - build thread |here|
- Foxwing eco 2.1
- Trail Toys Convex side mirrors
- Scuba mod (relocated breathers for front/rear dif, transfer case, transmission and e-locker)

Why did I get what I got?
Phase 1: Protection
I figured the first thing I need to do is protect this 5 year investment. The Budbuilt skids looked to be the best option for me. The idea of a full skid going back to the pumpkin was what I was looking for and I managed to get it. The few times we took the FJ with the stock skids they seemed to be more of a gravel catch than I could imagine.

I went with all my plates and skids being bare metal. If they get used they are going to scratch. I would rather pay 50 bucks in paint opposed to a few hundred to get everything powder coated.

I am currently one of the only people I know that has a crawlable SUV. Self recovery was a big deal for me and that is why I went with a winch. I had an ARB bumper on my Liberty and it was awesome. I figured I would go get the same. That is until I found the Ironman bumpers. Same lift points, same winch point but with the poly bumps and a separate winch bar then bump AND cheaper I changed course and got the Ironman.

I didn't change course on the shocks though. I remembered as soon as we put the bumper on the Liberty seeing the front end sink. I went with the ARB because that is what I knew and it hasn't failed me yet.

I didn't like how the bumper tied into the wheel well or there lack of and how with the new editions of FJ they exposed the washer bottle. We covered it with a plate that ties the bumper to the plastic wheel well on both sides.



Finally when I'm out at the parks or hunting I like to carry at least one extra can of gas with me. As of now I have been storing them on the roof rack just strapped in. I'm looking at building a rear bumper with a swing out to hold the tire, a couple cans, maybe the high lift, and maybe a small basket to hold dirty recovery equipment. I consider this protection because it will be a replacement bumper and properly hold those flammable gas tanks.

Phase 2: Convenience
Since I have most of my protection completed. I have started on the convenience side of things. I added a set of flood lights on the bumper for better night travel.

I changed out the bulbs in the CRAWL control console to red driver and natural white passenger LEDs. I opted for red driver side because the LEDs are plenty bright and I didn't want to hit the map light and blind my vision outside. The passenger side white LED is plenty bright and I get enough wash on the driver's side to see with out being blinded by direct light. I also chose 2 48 LEDs for the dome lights. Enough to have better light but I didn't want to get a tan with 96 in each dome.

Radio, needed to go off roading with groups of people. I chose the cobra 75 is a simple CB that is small. The truck is still new and I don't want to be claiming the few stock storage areas for a CB set.

Center console saddle bags was the first thing I got for the truck. There isn't much stock storage in the cab and it was a simple fix to get some more. I also added two collapsible crates in the back to keep things from rolling around. I will be add a shelf in the back that has 3 bays to hold 2 crates and the compressor/shovel. The top has rails that I can attach tie downs.

Phase 3: Repair
So far I have had 1 bolt fall loose from my front bumper. I had to head over to Lowes and get a suitable replacement. I have done my 1 year check of everything required some touch up paint and a slight modification of my washer bottle skids. I had to fold over an edge because it was starting to wear on the washer tank a bit.

I have had my bumper slip some since I had not drilled my 4 "Pinning" bolts yet. Im glad I hadn't since when I first mounted the bumper it was took close to the body and rubbed on the front fender. To get the holes drilled I had to get a 90 degree drill to fit into the pinning hole locations.

The GPS console had the suction cup fall and loose its ability due to some paint fusing to the cup. I fixed this by bolting the mount directly to the plate. No issues since I have done this.

These few things I have had to do some touch up paint on the front bumper, rock rails and skids. Nothing major that a rattle can cant take care of.

First expensive repair is now acquired. In March of 2015 I managed to kink my winch line in a few locations. Too much to cut off and re-crimp. So I have on order a synthetic line from red-dirt offroad. The install was simple. |Link|


About a year of wear and tear.

Here is my rolling totals. (issue/repair)
- Lost bolt from my bumper./Easy Home Depot Fix.
- Kinked winch cable./Replaced with synthetic.
- Over heat from too much mud in radiator./Fix with concentrated power washing.
- Blown OME rear shock x2./Replaced, installed MT rear long travel
- Blown OME strut /Replaced with toytec 2.5
- blow out 2 BFG MTs/replaced set with BFG AT, commonly stocked.
- Damaged front skid plate, sheared body nuts./Reformed plate and installed rive nuts.
- Bent driver side CV axle/Replaced

I still really like the OME suspension, most people ask me "how the hell did you do that to OME" not it figures. OME is sturdy as hell I just guess I like to party.


THE FUTURE!

Suspension
- Front Long Travel

Armor
- None planned

Recovery
- None planned

Stowage
- None planned

Electrical
- Second battery (deep cycle) with isolator
- Off Road lights (side/rear)
- Move power consumption of lights/winch possibly CB to secondary battery.

Engine
- None planned

Other
- None planned
 

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Looking good. I like your order of operations too. Protection and recovery are very important. Probably time for a new set of tires worthy of a trail though
 

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Great start on the FJ! Look forward to following your build. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the complements. I was amazed at how well the tires did work since they quickly became slicks with the clay. I have been looking around and I think I'm going to see about making a deal with the wife that Christmas for me would be a set of 5 steelies and 5 tires.

The steelies I can find for 55 dollars a pop. No big deal there. The next thing is the tires. I am looking at 285/70/17s in either Dura Tracs or spend the extra 10-20 a tire and get Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar.

I have read many people praising the Dura Tracks but not many people saying anything about the Kevlars. I figure the better side walls would be worth it but the treads look a bit "weaker" than the Dura Tracs.

The next issue I am going to have to cross with the wife is her letting me BMC a vehicle that has been in our possession for 3 months. I am guessing I would have to do this since I will be at around a 33" tire. I am not familiar with spacers, would those help me out for clearance or would they cause more of an interface due to a wider swing of the tires in a turn?
 

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Thanks for the complements. I was amazed at how well the tires did work since they quickly became slicks with the clay. I have been looking around and I think I'm going to see about making a deal with the wife that Christmas for me would be a set of 5 steelies and 5 tires.

The steelies I can find for 55 dollars a pop. No big deal there. The next thing is the tires. I am looking at 285/70/17s in either Dura Tracs or spend the extra 10-20 a tire and get Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar.

I have read many people praising the Dura Tracks but not many people saying anything about the Kevlars. I figure the better side walls would be worth it but the treads look a bit "weaker" than the Dura Tracs.

The next issue I am going to have to cross with the wife is her letting me BMC a vehicle that has been in our possession for 3 months. I am guessing I would have to do this since I will be at around a 33" tire. I am not familiar with spacers, would those help me out for clearance or would they cause more of an interface due to a wider swing of the tires in a turn?
You shouldn't need a BMC to run the 285s. Might have to remove your front mudflaps though. Wheel spacers will probably cause rubbing and then you would need a BMC
 

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great start on your build.
 

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Way to jump in with both feet. You should check out the bajarack utility rack. That is my plan for when I get my lift. It will allow you to still fit in your garage.

You should check out Toyota Trail Riders (TTR) - Get Out and Explore.. We are based here in Dallas and do monthly events. You can usually find someone to go out wheeling with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The wife finally put the breaks on the build. Not going to get new tires for a while. I'm fine with that, as we can get into plenty of trouble with the stock tires. I have added a Cobra 75. I mounted the J box under the center console, in front of the 4x4 shifter with the cable coming out of one of the switch blanks. I 3d printed a clamshell plug that fit in the hole and it holds the base wire very well. I also managed to get a another complete socket and misc. tools set to keep in the back.

Pictures will follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I originally thought I would have pictures up earlier than this but I guess later is better than never.

First thing I added since the last post was some proper storage in the back. Before I had a small Ryobi pack in the back that would slide around. Woot! had a sale on collapsible crates. I picked up two and I grabbed my bigger Ryobi pack and proceeded to load it up.




Inside the Ryobi pack I have:
- First aid pack (there are probably 4 first aid packs of items in the pack now)
- Solar panel (good for charing phones, tablets ect. anything that can run off usb)
- Wire band clamp tool (makes compression clamps out of small gauge wire)
- Tie downs (8 of them in the blue bag on bottom of the picture.)
- Jumper cables
- Standard/Metric socket/wrench set
- OBII reader
- screwdrivers
- wire ties, wire crimps, fuses (big/micro) and other misc stuffs
- 2 crescent wrenches and a few sets of pliers
- several other tools that I can't remember.

The next thing was a rather straight forward install of the CB. I tapped the power feed to the 12v socket to power the CB. Put the "head unit" under the center console near the 4x4 shifter and let the quick connect come out of a open button slot. The install took about 3 hours. Most of it was us trying to think how to best route the wires. Once that was done I took the blank inside and pulled dims from it and 3d printed out a replacement blank to hold the wire. The handset is in one of the saddle bags.




We routed the coax out the back of the aux button panel around the passenger floor boards and out the large gland on the passenger side that routes the washer fluid to the rear window. We then ran it along the passenger side of the engine bay along the grill and to the CB mount on the bumper.



Then we went on our grand 1,000+ mile trip around Texas. From our home in McKinney we went to Houston for Christmas then hunting with my father in law in Sonora. For the trip I strapped 2 of our 5 gallon jerry cans to the roof, we were heading to some remote areas of Texas where if we didn't realize we were at or under 1/4 tank we would be walking. For them I just put all 4 rails in the back for the weight.



For Christmas my in laws gave me the HiLift mount that I promptly installed on the rear roof rack.

Later this month I will see about putting the mount on the lower rail so I don't have to leave off the HiLift to fit in the garage.

For the trip the truck was completely stuffed. We had the perfect storm of Christmas, hunting and out of town for 10 days. For 2 then 3 people. We managed to get down to Houston ok since it was just two of us and I had the full rear of the truck. When we went to Sonora we were out of room. 3 people plus all the gear was too much for us. Luck was with us, my father in law had made a large hitch basket and we put our two coolers in it.



Hopefully in the next installment I will be showing off some flood lights that are currently in the mail.

Yes I know the stock tires will be replaced eventually. I haven't given up on that yet but I'm picking my battles.
 

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I was hoping that your next installment was going to be, you showing us the good luck you had in Sonora!

Liking your build. Function first. I had to get a different roof rack first. Baja racks do help on road trips!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
For Sonora I got my first turkey and the wife got her first deer.




Actually driving out there in the pitch black made me glad I was getting these floods. I was satisfied with the high beams but they were way too narrow and we tapped our bull bar fog lights into the low beams.

So here I started with the install today.


Plans


Parts


Tapped off the dash fuse box to power my switch.


From the fuse box you can stick your hand up behind the console and pop out the blank.


Hiccup #1 . What I figured would take a few minutes to drill out a hole and trim some inner web ended up taking me nearly 45 minutes to clear out. I had to go back into the house and grab my Dremel to clear out almost the whole inside webbing.


Wired up and ready to test the onboard light. It worked.


Next was going through the firewall. Good thing there are unused grommets on the FJ's firewall. I popped out the drive side one.


I drilled out a hole about 1/64th smaller than the od of the wire. It was a good snug fit so I think I am still water tight.


With the inside of the build done I started on the terminal block mount. For this I used some empty m8x1.25 holes and mounted my aluminum plate to it.


I took off the plate for everything seen here. This is all the interconnecting wires that stayed on the plate and the power lead to the battery.


All full of the wires. I put 2 pilot holes on the plate for 2 more relays and I should have enough terminals for them too.


This is where hiccup #2 happened. I wasn't expecting it to take as long as it did to mount the lights. I had the 2 holes already there from the factory. All I had to do was put them on. Well just about no tool would fit inside the bumper so I had to take the lights completely off the mount and snug them down from the outside then remount the lights.


And done! ~3 hours again.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Today was a quick lunch break install of the 2 led map lights. I still have 2 led dome lights in the mail.


Two lights, driver side red and passenger white.


You have to really pull down on the Atrac console. I thought it was going to break so I stopped checked the forum on my phone to confirm it was a straight pull then went back to pulling it off.


The lights just drop into place. I tested the LEDs before putting the console back up incase I needed to rotate the bulb. Once the test was done the console pops back in with ease.

Under 10 minute install.

I chose red on the driver's side because at night the last thing I wanted was to be blinded by a bright LED. If I need white light I can turn on the passenger map light or the dome right behind me.

For the next few posts I am going to be mostly working on internal cab stuff. LED lights, GPS ect. Armor has been put on the back burner for a while since the wife and I are planning a trip to New Hampshire. 1800 miles each way with 99.9% on road travel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Today I managed to get my rear cargo area finished.

I went for a single shelf with 2 dividers to hold my two cargo bins. I got in a roll with the build and forgot to take pictures until the end of the build.



I decided to put slotted angle around the edge of the platform this help stiffen the wood and help me anchor cargo. The leading edge is the same 2x1 angle I used for my relay bracket.


The two dividers plus the wheel wells give the board plenty of strength. I was sitting on it while making my final install.


Left to right, compressor, recovery gear, tools. When the firestick is off it goes in front of the front angle.


When all pushed in I still have some room on the bin sides and on the compressor side I still have enough room to access the door or add something aprox 1 1/2 foot long if needed.


I decided to use a allen bolts to hold down the angle with a threaded insert on the opposite side of the board. This lets me if need remove the angle. I have no idea why I would need to remove the angle but the option is there. I could even bolt something else to the board.



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Currently on my to do list.
1. GPS unit
2. Get lower roof rack
3. Get off road tires.

Part 1
I have figured out which GPS I want to get. Garmin nüvi 2597LMT 5-Inch should fit nicely above the rear view mirror. I have also already purchased a 12v to USB power adapter I think I can fit inside the CRAWL control console. This should give me the ability to change out the GPS later with minimal problems. My biggest issue will be getting the wires up to the roof but its doable.

Part 2
I have made headway on getting new tires. I know I won't be getting new tires until at least mid summer. We have a long road trip coming up and I would rather burn up my current tires. But how does a shorter roof rack relate? I need to fit in the garage. I believe the Warrior Platform Roof Rack will be my best option. It is 3 inches shorter than the stock rack and I have right now about 1/2" of clearance. I should be able to get just about any tire after this roof rack and still fit in the garage. With any luck I might be able to pick up from TRD parts to save on shipping.

Part 3
At first I was all up for the 285/70/17 then I got looking and basically reset the search. I am looking now at either a 33,34 or 35" tire. I have it down to these contenders.


Goodyear Kevlar.......285/70/17...................315/70/17..35/12.5/17
BFG T/A KM2........... 285/70/17..285/75/17...................35/12.5/17

Since I was looking to do no modification the 285/70/17s seemed to be the way to go. Both will give me better traction than the Bridgestone H/Ts I have now. Both 33s are D rated and only weigh 1 pound different from each other 58/59.

If I go up one inch to 385/75/17s it becomes a E rated tire. It gives me only a 1/2" increase in height but beefier sidewall. But netting me a 1" increase from stock. It weighs an 62 lb per tire. At this size I would probably have to look at chopping the body. What the hell, might as well see what is up another inch in size then.

When I look at the 35" range Kevlars come up with two options. The 315 and the 35s differ by .1" But the 315s are D rated weighing 67 lbs while the 35s are C rated weighing 64 lbs. Then the BFGs pop up weighing 69 lbs.

So I am looking at a size range between 33-35" and a weight from 58-69 lbs. I can get up to 35s for only 6more lbs per tire but I am not sure if C load range is all that good. Or does the Kevlar make up for the less material or is it a sales pitch.

If the 35 Kevlars being C rated actually suck I would probably drop down to the BFGs in 385/75 I would loose 1/2" of clearance but gain a nice tire for 62 lbs.

I don't like to go mudding, its do damn much work to clean. I have gone to Bridgeport 2 times now and most of the time I was on rocks.

So for the TL/DR crowd, I have 2 questions.

Is the 35" Goodyear Kevlar in C rating any good? Does the Kevlar make up for the thinner tire?

With a 35" I am certain I would have to do an aggressive body mount chop but is there anything else I would have to modify?


Finally if anyone thinks I should look at another tire I'm open for suggestions. I haven't purchased anything yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Lucky for me the GPS has been put on the backburner. The wife and I had a moment of clarity and we are going to take her car on the road trip. Honda fit 30-40 mpg, Toyota FJC 18 on a good day.

I have decided to go with 285/75/17s BFG KM2s tires the discussion thread on them is |here|. I figure the 285/75/17 will get me height and width without being too much of either. Those though will come in good time.

To get the tires and still fit in the garage a new roof rack had to be acquired. Since I personally like my roof rack. I normally find some use for it about every other month and I like the trees to rub against it opposed to my actual roof.

I opted for the Warrior Platform rack. It has a decent load capacity (weight and ft^2) and its 3 inches shorter too. The lack of sides also allow loads to overhang with the load still evenly dispersed across the rack.

I ordered it from TRDparts4U but I paid for shipping opposed to an in store pick up. I only live about 30 minutes away but I would hate to figure a way to pack it in. I had enough of a time picking up my bumper from them. I completely filled the truck with bumper.

Anyway the rack is on order and hopefully in a few weeks I'll be able to post some pictures my truck with a new rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
The roof rack came in.

Thursday I got a call from TRD4U saying the rack is in. It will be delivered tomorrow. So me being me took off the my old rack Thursday night in preparation.





After being an idiot with a torx bit adapted ratchet I went inside and got my drill. About 2 minutes later the rack was ready to come off.

The install went great. Took about an hour to put on at lunch with a coworker.



The only hiccup I had with the install is the rubber filler plates didn't want to fit on with the new brackets. Easy fix for right now is I pulled them off and tonight I'll trim them down some and put them back in. I will also re install my hi-lift mounts when I get home.

Wish I could say more but, heck its a great roof rack that installed easily. The warrior rack has a bit more wind noise than my old rack but it was expected with a rack like this.
 

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Today was a quick lunch break install of the 2 led map lights. I still have 2 led dome lights in the mail.

The lights just drop into place. I tested the LEDs before putting the console back up incase I needed to rotate the bulb. Once the test was done the console pops back in with ease.
Under 10 minute install.
I chose red on the driver's side because at night the last thing I wanted was to be blinded by a bright LED. If I need white light I can turn on the passenger map light or the dome right behind me.
Map lights look nice. :cheers::cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Thanks, really easy to do and a huge improvement. It was just the first time to pull down the crawl control console was a moment of truth. I thought I was going to break the whole thing. Now it doesn't even phase me.


So my wife says to me "Lets start back up your XM radio so we can have music on the way to Florida"
"Ok, I guess were taking my truck then"
"yep"


So back to the priority list I had earlier. Roof rack, done, its now GPS time.

As soon as I got the GPS in I already had a 12v to usb supply just needed to wire it up. I figured I would print out a new mount for the GPS and screw it to the rear view mirror with the power coming out of the crawl console.




So it prints out and it looks nice and the GPS clips into the ball mount that attached to the back of the receiver. I then notice that the plastic I print with is much softer then the plastic they used so as I move it around it gets looser and looser.

Almost the same thing goes with the 12v to USB supply. Its a little POS and I wire it up and I just look at it and say to my self this is a bucket of junk, it will probably work but I don't know if I can rely on it. So I put it up.

Back to square one.

I'm looking at the suction cup and I realize that it has a really good grip. Why not just make a metal plate that goes from the rear view mirror to the crawl console?







I took some galvanized plate, folded it on a 4" table vise and hammered it out. I put 2 flanges on the sides with folded edges so it won't cut any one and the flanges make sure the suction point stays flat as possible. Once I got the shape I wanted I hit it with some of the same bumper spray paint I used on my rock rails.

It connects to the 2 screws in the rear view mirror and on the rear I left 2 tabs that I folded over the head liner, combined with the console it held rather well.



Now I wanted this to also act as a charging station for phones and such so I wired a switch to a constantly hot tap. Light's green when its powered up.



Now I just have to wait till Monday for my 2 USB power supply to come in the mail and install it in the console. It should be a simple drop in install since I did all the wiring tonight. All I need to do it tap in to the ground for the switch and plug into the hot. I will probably glue the transformer to the console and leave the two USB heads sticking out the edges.


Thanks for taking a look. (The GPS has a 2 hour battery:wink)

More to come Monday-Tuesday.
 
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