Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

61 - 80 of 131 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #62
Today I finished scuba-ing the FJ. I picked up a scuba set from |here| seems like a nice kit and I liked the fact that it puts all the breathers into a manifold.

The rear 2 were easy, well exposed and ... well simple. Rear diff is threaded directly into the top of the housing on drivers side and the e-locker is routed just above on a cross member.

The other 3 were a complete pain in the a$$. My wife got a few pictures of the breather hoses after we got them installed.



The 3 breathers are about half way down the firewall directly behind the block. They are now routed to the rear driver's side panel where the jack is stored and plumbed to the manifold. The manifold is mounted to the top of the stock jack mount.

If anyone wants some pictures of how we routed the hoses I'll post up some more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
This week I decided to pull my swaybar off. No more messing with a disconnect and trying to get the best of both worlds. What I thought would be an easy drop the skids and then the sway bar ended up taking me about 3 days. First when I went down to pull the skid, almost all of my bolts were stripped and spinning freely. Me being stuck I took it to the dealer where they managed to get all the body nuts I sheared free from when I managed to bash my skid removed and replaced them normal nuts. For the time and effort it took them to figure out how to get them off without destroying anything it was worth the money.

While it was at the dealer I ordered some 8mm revnuts to replace the busted hardware and when I got it back the next day I was ready to go.


This is my front skid. Knocked the corner of my budbuilt more than 3/8" back exposing the lower control arm joint. Luckly no damage to the control arm. But that impact kocked loose my body nuts.


When I got the FJ off the skid plates went. Due to them using normal nuts to hold the front skid plate on I had to take the second plate off to access the first skid.


While I was there off with the swaybar.


The next day I took the front skid to work where I can take an acetylene torch too it so I can bash it back into shape.


Conveniently 2 brackets hold the front skid on and they can be easily removed. I actually already removed them once to take the swaybar out. The rev nuts require a 13.5mm hole and I'm glad I could do that on my bench opposed to the nightmare it would be to do over head under the engine bay.


A few more tuning bashes and a fresh coat of paint and nearly good as new. When I reinstalled the skids I went down with a yellow and a black spray paint can and touched up any chips and scratches before they became a problem.

Now the ride without the swaybar, wow cool feeling and takes bumps and such like a champ fully independent front suspension is awesome. When people say it rides no different they are flat out wrong, there is more body roll. Significant, I wouldn't say it would be significantly more but you can notice it. I feel like I still have control and even took a few sharper than normal turns to make sure its safe and I think it is. If its bad enough to roll the truck its was bad enough before to roll the truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
2 weekends ago we went to Jambo and had a blast. I thought I had a bunch more footage but we had the go-pro footage taper off.
We have a few other smaller clips but this is the only fully filmed segment we did.

Last year we did somewhere around 20 miles of driving. This year we did well over 50. We were constantly driving around doing something.

The rear bumper paid off on its first outing. I was trying some more difficult stuff and I thought I might have dinged it a few times, showing only 2 scratches. When I washed it off at home I saw it got a lot of use.



The bottoms of the new wings also took the whole weight of the FJ a few times going down staircases. What was an afterthought, just using some scrap turned out to be a protection VIP.

We also made the change to BFG all terrains. Not because we wanted to but I liked them. We managed to cut both driver side tires up in the side wall, around 1" on each. We changed to all terrains and I haven't yet noticed a difference off road. I haven't gone through very deep mud yet but everything else was great. The silence on the highway is a plus too.



Finally I managed on our last trail to get my first body damage. Rocked the FJ into a tree. It wasn't too bad, just bumped a root on one side that slung me into a tree on the other. Paint is still there and washed most of it out... well except for the dint, but it stays.



Here are some more videos that my friends made.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
I've been thinking of moving from MTs to ATs as well, Duratraxs. Good to hear that you haven't seen any degradation in your off road performance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
I've been thinking of moving from MTs to ATs as well, Duratraxs. Good to hear that you haven't seen any degradation in your off road performance.
From what I could tell with the little bit of mud I have encountered so far they seem to clear the treads decently. Were heading to bridgeport this upcoming Sunday so I'll put them to the mud test soon.

The main reason I went with the Mud Terrain before is the KOs seems to be very car like and lacked the improvements the KO2s have. If these were available in 2013 when I started looking for tires there is a decent chance I would have got these to start with.

BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 Review » AutoGuide.com News
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Long term plans are being set up for cleaning up the electrical and the possibility of a second tank.


Here is the electrical plan. Using a 500 amp relay I should be able to combine/isolate my second battery when needed.

The combining switch
ON position: The switch pulls its impulse power from the back of the 12v cigarette port. When the vehicle is on the batteries are combined when the vehicle is off the batteries are isolated. This keeps a dead battery or something left on killing the whole vehicle.
Isolate position: Batteries are separated 100% the time. Under high loading I can isolate the second battery.
Jump position: Batteries are combined 100% of the time. If the first battery goes down for some reason I can attempt to jump start the vehicle with it. If the first battery is 100% dead I can pull the leads from it and run the vehicle as normal in this position.

Secondary kill switch: If I am worried about keeping something on in the cab I can kill all secondary systems with one switch.

Off road lights, CB and USB ports are cleanups of what I have already.

Utility light: This will use a quick disconnect in the engine bay and have ~25' cabling so I can pop the hood and get light where I need it while working on the FJ or preferably someone else's rig.

Second tank system:
I want this to be completely isolated from the vehicle when not on so when this is no energized 2 solenoids shut off the transfer fuel/vapor lines so when the FJ does its vacuum test it should be nearly fool proof.

When the fuel system is turned on it activates the solenoid valves and when they complete their circuit they trigger to relays showing either a functioning/broken condition on the dash also if either valve shows a non working condition I will not be able to pump into the primary tank. Further more I have an interrupt test button to make sure neither of the valves are in a stuck position.

--- that is how I plan on working it electrically ---

For the fuel tank itself I am still a fan of buying a race cell and sticking it under the frame with a transfer pump and a vapor return. Since I have pulled my rear bumper off I have plenty of room to fit a fill nozzle between the rear frame member and the rear of the body.

Now all I have to do is save up and try to polish my plan so I make minimal mistakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
This Sunday I got to mud test the all terrains. They did well, not quite the same traction as the mud terrains but did well for most of the day.





It did well with deep mud and the only time I got in sideways was with deep clay but to be fair so were the guys with mud terrains in the clay. They cleared out well, well enough that I'm going to keep with them after these wear out.

We were only there wheeling for an hour Northwest OHV (Bridgeport, TX) was a complete swamp and we had issues getting anywhere and we didn't get any damage and we cut out before any mistakes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
I have some fine tuning to do but this panel should fit in the sliver driver side of the dash where the vent is. I'm thinking about slanting the top of the panel so I can have master on/off in a better location.


This will have all the switches and LED status lights for the major components that do not already have switches in me vehicle. The wife would like to get a ham license so we made provisions for it.

Top left is the on/isolate/jump swtich with a yellow (on) and a red (jump) indicator.

Below that is the tank system on along with the isolation valve status lights. The pump witch will also toggle a flashing red led right below the switch. The Test buttons should cycle the isolation valves cycling the leds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
First thing first, I have opted to not have the 2 solenoid valves to isolate the tank and only have 1 transfer line, no vapor return. From what I can tell it should vent excess pressure through the OEM tank system. I'll have to double check that and come up with a solution if that isn't the case.

I mocked up a RCI 2172A fuel tank. RCI Aluminum Fuel Cells 2172A - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
On the website it says its 17 gallons but in reality it is closer to 15, still better than the 0 extra I have now and for ~250, I can't complain.





The tank hangs down a small distance below my existing bumper, I should be able to fix that with some skid plates with ease. My main issue is figuring out where I would place the pump and fill lines. Right now its tucked up tight to the frame I cut nearly 3" from the hitch supports once I got the bumper finished.


Many people like to come out from here in the wheel well, I never liked the idea of having a fill port in nearly the dirtiest location available.


Some others have come up in the rear between the body and the frame, orginally I liked that idea as I might be able to take the RCI 45 fill neck and be done with it. RCI Fuel Cell Fast Fill Hose Valves 7036B - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing I don't think this will work because it is 4" tall and it doesn't extend past the flange so it would be a tight fit.

I took a look at another option.

I popped the retaining ring off of the current fill nozzle and this whole top fender area is empty. I could in theory bring the filler up to the body and come out between the current filler and the light, just below with a simple marine cap. My other option that I like a bit more is I make my own filler neck and come out between the frame and the body.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
After considerations I'm putting the secondary tank on the back burner. I'm thinking if I go with the fuel cell method, with the cell I found, I would want to do a 1" body lift to suck up the tank flush with the frame so it won't stick down at all. I have yet to be in a place where I absolutely needed a second tank of gas that I can't supplement with some jerry cans that I already have.

Now that the tank is tabled I'm still working on my stack of leftover metal from the trailer. With minimal extra purchases I can make a swing out for the bumper and get some storage on the back of the FJ. I want to have the tire mounted far driver and low so I can get 3 cans on the passenger side or mount a cooler for short trips or when I take the trailer. I will also figure out a place to mount my tredz that are coming from their kickstarter on the back somewhere.


Not mine but a similar idea. I like the idea of the gas tanks up high so I don't have to relocate the license plate.


This came in the mail this week.

Today I got to work on making the two primary mounts for the spindle.





They are 3/8ths plate and they will weld along roughly 7" of each of the runners that make up the bumper, I'll run 2" flat bar down each side to box in the spindle. This should be plenty strong since this is where the bumper is triangulated and is by far the strongest part of the bumper, this part of the bumper has taken the weight of the FJ a few times now and not budged.

I plan on anchoring the passenger side of the swingout with a cam style latch similar to the ones I used on the trailer and I'll mount a tie point between the swing out and the rear bumper so they will move together, this will keep me from needing a bump stop and a lock for the swing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Today I started striking arcs for the swing out. I managed to fit up the spindle and get it ready to mount on the bumper.


Setting up the first plate.



Setting up the second plate.


Assembly welded up.


Cut off roughly 1" of spool that hung down below the mounts.


Still too hot to handle for an extended time and its near 100 degrees in the garage so this is where I stopped for the time being. This should give me ~28" of weld area to hold the spindle to the bumper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
Well it cooled off and wanted to get some more work done on it.







The welds are a bit rough looking, I was going for strength not pretty, once I have it how I want it I'll take the whole bumper off again and clean it up. Now for the good, bad and the ugly.

GOOD: The swingout works well fully extended it can take all my weight at the tip of the swing, ~230lbs.
BAD: The bumper does roll a bit when fully extended with my weight on it. I think I fix this rather easily by triangulating the bumper a bit more.
Ugly: After my test I realized I didn't fully seat my lower bearing ring so I used my poor man's press (the spindle) to tighten down on it. Well I distorted the inner diameter of the top of the spindle so it bound the bearing ring and I snapped it. I sent an email asking if I can order a replacement bearing.

The other delay is of course I don't have a latch yet or studs for the spare. I ordered both of these today and should show up next week. This thing is progressing much faster than I expected which is a good thing.

From what I have seen most people use a poly pad for the clasp, I'm going to use two stainless steel pads and they should wear just fine. The rear camera I'll have to splice the wire loom for it which shouldn't be a big deal right now I'm thinking I'll mount the camera not in the tire spare but beside it so my trasharoo won't block the camera. I am also planning on reusing my a sway bar tie rod as my inter connecting rod for the rear of the door and the swing out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
So part of the challenge I gave myself is to buy minimal parts with the exception of specific equipment like latches and spindles I'm trying to use up the remainder of my trailer metal.

The main swing arm was short but I had another piece that would make the perfect length. Once I make the latch I can cut it down.


I beveled the edges so I can get a full strength, full pen weld.


Welded up and waiting more supplies.


My 2k latch.

Still waiting on the replacement bearing raceway, I sent an email to AZ and since it was the weekend I looked up another raceway at EZ trailer, 1.50 a piece so I ordered a few. On Monday I got an email back from AZ FAB and they are sending me another bearing race for free. In my email I told them It was my fault and I pressed it in crooked, they responded with next time be careful. Cool deal in my book and they defiantly have my business for next time.

For the reinforcement of the bumper I'm confident the bumper is good for highway conditions right now with a swing out, so I plan on building the bumper out then seeing where it flexes under load. I'm thinking I'll double the top of the bumper with another stick of 1.25x.125. This should heal any of my worries. Right now the spindle is held up with 3/4" of steel which I think is fine. I was thinking about making 2 straps that wrap the top of the bumper around the frame since all the support comes around the bottom. Then I realized That isn't true, I have 2 supports that come directly out of the frame and I think if I gusset those it will greatly increase the strength of the bumper with minimal weight gain.

Anyway, until the replacement parts show up I'm just going to be waiting around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
I start this post off with, its a all text post so picture goers sorry, better luck next time.

I got the replacement parts both from Etrailer where I found the races I bought and AZ Fab which didn't only send me 1 race but 2 full sets of bearings so I have some spares when the time comes. Also other components came in mainly the tap and drill for a 1/4-24 THD for the zerk fitting.

Here is where I think I have to go next. After testing the loading of the bumper a few times by sitting on the end of the swing out what started off with a bit of a rising swing out is now a sagging swingout. This can only happen from 1 of 3 things.
1. The spindle has bent.
2. The arm has bent.
3. The bumper has bent.

I am willing to bet on the first 2 not being the issue and this sets my course of action. I can't expect to have a decently mounted swing out while bumper is still able to bend to a plastic state. It wasn't much, maybe a degree but over 60" it goes from clearing with ease to a contact point, has it stopped? I don't know. I am going to dismount the bumper and reinforce it where I think its needed. From what I have seen doubling up the top rung along with stiffinging the secondary supports should do a good job in the category. Since I will have everything off I will also look into webbing the spindle mount and adding another clamp support through the frame where the 2 main supports are. The challenge now is I will be adding heat to the top of the bumper. I will have to do this in a way that will not cause the top of the bumper to shrink causing the spindle to point at more of an extreme angle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
944 Posts
Good luck, sorry about the issues.
I may tackle a rear bumper with swing out this winter.

So ill at least, wait til you get it ironed out and can explain the do's and don'ts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Reinforcement complete.






A single strip of flat bar greatly increased the stiffness of the bumper. Instead of having 2 individual members running the length of the bumper, which was fine for just a bumper, I now tied them together into one cohesive plate. I decided to leave center span empty since I plated to two connection points already and the bumper did bow about 1/2" over the whole distance already. The plating of the wings also give the bumper a decent strengthening of roll resistance too, I wasn't too worried about that since I don't plan on driving with the swingout out.

The bumper is currently painted and mounted, I just didn't take a picture of it.

I boxed in the spindle for 2 reasons.
1. Its now much stiffer having a larger contact area and doesn't rely on the welds on spindle to keep from rotating.
2. I couldn't fit a grinder down in to the spindle area and its cleaner to seal it up.

Now back to the regularly scheduled programming.

Tonight I plan on having a short work day on the bumper, I have to go in early to work so I want to be awake for that. I will remount the swingout and figure out how much I have to tune the arm to be straight or a bit of an up angle to compensate for the weight. I am still liking the idea of 1 tire, 3 cans, tredz (when they show) and relocating my backup camera.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
We are back to swinging!





The extra flat bar is exactly what it needs. The heat distorted the bumper a bit so I made a correction on the swing out. Right now it sits up about 1" unloaded in the "locked" position, I want it to be like this so when loaded it will drop near level position.


It holds me all ~230 lbs, right now its a death trap due to nothing stopping it from swinging nearly 270 degrees so this is the instant my wife got with my feet up, before swinging too fast.

Tire carrier time.

Layed it out and before I made the holes bigger I made a triangle 3/4" out from the holes then scribed them with the cut off wheel so the heat wouldn't burn off the marker.


Cut out and the studs are welded in. I will have to put spacers like I have done before for the studs to work but I have it the way I want it. I am toying with the idea of an oxi torch so I don't have to go through so many wheels, I went through 3 cut off wheels for this but on the other hand I think I'll burn the house down with the torch.

Tomorrow I should be setting up my tire carrier then I'll see about a latch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
771 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
I did some more work on the spare tire mount tonight, nothing big just a bit after dinner when it cooled down into the low 90s. :)


The spacers are installed, I am liking this method opposed to spacing the back of the stud. This is my 3rd spare holder to be done like this and I like the fact it gaps the wheel from the structure. I still have some 1/4" thk 2.5 square that I can channel out and mount to my 2x2. This config should give me a very strong holder that doesn't take much room. I will also add some angled stabilizers out of 1.25 square.

Right now the tire on the rear door is perpendicular to the ground, since I'm now putting this on the swingout it will be ~10" farther out from the vehicle, to compensate on the swing out for this I plan on installing the spare holder on a bit of an angle so I split some of the weight across the arm.
 
61 - 80 of 131 Posts
Top