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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Current Mileage: 190k

Future plans (am i getting ahead off myself?)
√ Replace all fluids with synthetic
√ Gas/water can carrier
√ Long travel
√ Cam tab, shock tower
Engine mount gussett
Trans cooler

Engine
√ Amazonbasics/KIRKLAND full synthetic high mileage 5w-30
OEM oil cooler mod
Derale 13249 power steering cooler with PSC reservoir
√ Magnuson supercharger
√ URD Ucon
√ Denso VKH22 Super Tough Iridium
√ Ripp coil plugs
√ Wix air filter

Suspension/Wheels/Brakes
√ Wheels: Titan T-AK1 17x8.5 -8
√ Tires: bfg km3 39x13.5 r17
√ Wheelers bumpstops front and rear
√ King 2.5x8 LT coilovers with CSS rear springs +.5" 205 lb-in
√ ZerosFJ coilover covers
√ Dirt King Long Travel +3.5
√ Whiteline adjustable panhard
√ 2" Bulletproof Offroad hubcentric wheel spacers (rear)
√ RR Racing--Wilwood Aero6 DS 6 piston calipers with BP-20 pads
√ EBC slotted rotors (front)
√ Centric Stoptech pads (rear)
√ Centric Premium rotors 120.44128
Addco 2301 7/8" rear sway bar
Centric Brake shoes

Interior
√ Recaro Expert/Sparco side brackets/Planted base mount
√ Sparco 350mm rally wheel/NRG slim mount hub/10mm spacer
√ RAM mount tab holder
√ Joying 8" android head unit
√ 2.5 lb Halon fire extinguisher (driverside mount)
√ 2.5 lb All purpose fire extinguisher (trunk mount)
√ OEM JL subwoofer
√ ARB twin air compressor to 3 gallon air tank
√ RTIC 45qt cooler


Exterior
√ Factory fender removal
√ Trailer Products front fenders/McNeil Racing rear fenders
√ Scuba Mod
√ Deezee ladder
√ Rotopax 4 gallon gas can mount
√ JTA metalworks prerunner bumper
√ Philips h4 ultinon led
√ 4x Baja Designs LP4

Armor
√ BudBuilt skids to custom tuck
√ RCI gas tank skid
√ Iconic fab charcoal canister skid
Amp Research power steps

Removed
Bluetooth adapter
Coverking seat covers
Demello sliders
RCI skids
9" round led
Rocksteady aluminum skids
16x8 -25 wheels
315/75R16 Goodyear Duratrac
Toyman gussetted spindle
Allpro UCA
EBC Green Stuff 7000 pads (front)
EBC slotted rotors (front)
Method Roost 17x8.5
7" Lightforce HID driving lamps
Sparco Pro 2k
2/20
1159637


10/20/18


9/8/18


7/12/17
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
10/7/16
Here's a picture from the Autotrader ad. Yes, I'm sentimental.



I got some SCS F5 from fellow member Laobron. Stand up guy to deal with. These are 16x8 3.5BS. Mounted some 295/75 on there. Probably a little bigger than I should have gone with but out of aesthetics, the 295 looked more in proportion than 285. Also I like the ground clearance.
Hankook Dynapro 295/75


12/10/2016
Attempted to fit 295. Caster could be adjusted but a solid body karate chop will due for now. Removed and relocated fender flares to trash receptacle.




12/14/2016
I don't know how people removed their fender trim. Ended up hacking it up for the front and rear to keep the plastic door trim flowing and the same theme. I haven't had time to finish the driverside. Also, I know it's doing the lean in the front, but going to wait for proper suspension.






12/27/16
AFE exhaust install. Hi-Tuck model in 2.5" as I wasn't looking for a loud increase BUT I was looking for straighter piping unlike the stock which has lots of dents in the piping for clearance. Also hoping the straighter flow of piping might allow the engine to expel the exhaust gases more efficiently.



12/28/16
FJToymanoffroad.com gussetted spindles. Replaced the haggard gaskets National Oil Seal PN#710573 and Toyota o-ring PN#90301-92003
Kind of a jump in mods. I knew I wanted to upgrade the front end so I ordered these with rear shock skids from FJtoyman but there's a core charge so I had to get it on sooner than later.





1/6/17
Skids by RCI. I had these from their recent group buy and was lagging to put them on. Finally made time to mount up. Also lubed the driveshaft while i was down there. Bottom side stouter than a pint of Guinness!
Mileage:119k


1/13/17 Demello. Installing hybrid sliders



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
1/28/17 The build continues. Finished a no name 10lb co2 tank. Used on 1/29/17 and super happy with it. In the future I plan to carry an impact wrench so for emergency situations.


2/2/17 Baja flat rack. Can't wait to have a future RTT. It's my dream to tour across with my girlfriend. Also, my rack mounts are questionable at the moment. I'm using basket rack mounts which are lower flat utility mounts. If you ever need more clearance, this is the go-to. My air dam touches my roof at the moment. Currently cutting up spacers. Will update.



2/7/17 Stant locking cap installed No more siphon pirates allowed!

2/9/17 Changed oil at 122k with Castrol full synthetic 5w30. Not sure what was last in it. Current avg mpg is 16.5mpg

2/10/17 Installed ram mounts with a 10" tablet for a map source. Gaia Maps works awesome! Also good for entertainment for the passenger.



Hitting the mule Canyon/Phillips loop trail in Calico 2-11-17

2/17/17 Rainy days here in so cal so I thought I would start planning out my gas/water situation. Looking at adding about 140 lbs of weight on the rear door. Bad idea? Probably, but I'm not planning on a rear swing out. And Rotopax carriers aren't my preference. I've had a bad experience with poly gas cans expanding in the sun and when going to deserts at 120* it's not something you want to worry about.


2/21/17 this just happened! I need to have tower, cam tabs and engine mounts gussetted. May just get that done before the shiny stuff.


2/22/17 Couldn't wait. +.5" CSS springs, 10% stiffer.


Sitting there wrenching my life a quarter turn at a time. Install tip Have an angled ratcheting wrench set. 19mm for these. Would have gone much faster and made life easier.


FJ Toyman Shock Skid. One of the best thought out designs for a shock skid (IMO) compared to what the others are putting out for the same price.


3/11/17 These orange boots ain't made for walking


3/12/17 Rear gas mount mod to a Olympic 4x4 rotopax mount



3/23/17 Whiteline Panhard. Thrust angle is barely off, but I'm a bit of a stickler for those things. If you're into cars and driving fast, you might know Whiteline. Many people use them for HPDE/solo/rally cross because they're solid and budget friendly. Weighed in at 12.6lbs. Stock is 12.2lbs.



3/29/17 Rotopax gas can mount fitted and base plate fabbed. Extra 10 gallons!



4/10/17 Replaced the front and rear diff fluids with Shaeffer Manufacturing parasynthetic 75w-90 @127kmiles. Finally finished rear scuba mod! So easy and I don't know why I waited lol.

4/25/17 Installed limit straps on the front. But I think it needs another .25" adjustment. For now it's fine, I just want something to aid the droop, not cut out the travel completely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thank you for all the positive replies! That's exactly what I like to hear. It's not that I don't have confidence in the vehicle. I know it's very capable. Maybe I've been reading the forums too much and sound like I have something to prove :laugh

For the trails you're doing, which are they: equipment or insurance?
If not, get that and enable ATRAC. I wheel some of the hardest trails here in Colorado and have used my rear locker 5 times: ATRAC is that good.
A little bit of both. I've been driving trails for awhile and realize that you have to use your equipment to get around. But there are times I've probably been lucky that more damage hasn't been done to my vehicle, so the insurance is nice that I prepared ahead of time. Ie. I had a friend who's ICON coilover snapped (possibly due to a bumpstop/bottom out) and took out his CV. I overheard the towing was $1300 alone :surprise

I'll be in CO in June for a ragnar event. I'd love to drive some trails with you guys!

...What you see on the forum is what 2% of people do with their FJ. IMO spindle gussets aren't needed unless you are hitting curbs at 40 mph..... Don't be afraid to wheel it in its current condition to get a feel for what it can do.
Glad I'll be able to hit the malls at a good speed then, no crawling for me hah. You made a good point of getting out there as there's no replacement for experience. I need to stop reading these forums, they give me bad ideas!

I have a 1990 4runner setup as a pretty legit. Baja rig, which is my basis for comparison. Off the lot, even without proper tires my FJ is really impressive and can even do some things my "prerunner" can't do when it comes to crawling type activities.
I would love to see this 4runner baja rig. Have a few pictures or a build thread?

I have basically the same setup you...
Thanks man. That's inspiring. I guess I read too much of the forums and get inspired as well. I like your rock rails. I only have running boards right now and I don't think that would put up much of a fight next to that boulder on your driverside up there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think my initial post was taken a bit too serious. The FJ is very capable. If I didn't have the experience or capability, I probably wouldn't go through all this just to see the vehicle transform into something ideal for myself. I've driven 4runners extensively but have plenty of drivetime with the 120 platform.

I very much agree with everyone's advice. I see others making so many changes to their vehicles and some of us go too far down that rabbit hole. I'm not planning to go down that path. If I can bolt it on between lunch breaks at work, maybe I can swing it but I don't have time or space for a trailer queen. :shinner:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You owned a Land Rover and feel like the FJ has short comings?
Hah trying to poke at the LR? My Disco1 was the last of it's kind before all the electronics plagued it. It would still put up a great fight if the motor was still running :shinner:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
(independent of other issues people have been having with ICON lately).

If you have Facebook, join Colorado FJ Cruisers and we'd be happy to help plan a route, meet up for runs etc. We're over 1200 members, and many of them are out-of-state people who ask for destination suggestions or just go on runs with the locals.
You're right. I'm not trying to point any blame, rather point out that it was an expensive tow home. Although there may have been some manufacturing issues, this coil set up was on a LC200 body. ICON made amends to the issue and was truly professional about it from my friend's experience.

Appreciate the referral. Went ahead and joined up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
As she sits right now. I'll be honest, this took a good couple mornings to do. At no point did I feel I couldn't drive my FJ, so I was relieved since I don't want a "project" vehicle sitting in the driveway. BMC done by cutting relief cuts in the mount and just need to weld her back up. Also I wanted to keep the door trim even all the way across. I chopped the front/rear fender flare to maintain the line. As for the front rake, I'm going to wait it out for proper suspension. In the past, I've always asked for advice and got different opinions. I realized it's best to research, wait it out and make the proper purchase. Otherwise, I end up leveling it, spending twice and getting the coilovers I originally wanted.

 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Good! You realized i don't take much of this building seriously. This is more of a recollection of things I've done to the vehicle and hopefully others that are in my same boat can find it useful. For example, when I searched people with 16x8 -25 offset on the FJ. Only Tacoma Tundra threads showed up. The closest was 16x8 -13 with smaller tires on the "boontoolies" FJ. It was extremely helpful at the time so if anyone is interested, maybe my useless blabbering may confirms someone's idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
AFE exhaust on today. You can see that the stock exhaust looks a bit more complex than the AFE. Not sure if AFE took everyone's advice from 2008 but I read there was fitment issues with hitting the rear crossmember. I did not have those issues. Although they could have made the rear axle half a bit more solid, but it feels pretty tight once the 2.5" clamp connector is on. By the way, I kept with the 2.5" piping. I think stock is 2.3 inches. Not expecting any gains other than keeping things out of the way. If you know about exhausts, you're bound to crack something eventually if you like to use your exhaust as a slider when wheeling, it acts like a huge lever. If you think that's cool, good for you, but I've learned plenty from my ricer days of building a proper exhaust for clearance and how easy it can be to create leaks or crack manifolds. I love the FJ more and more as I dive into her. Hope you guys don't mind all the posts. Been waiting on some oil seal gaskets, but tomorrow I'll tackle the gussetted spindles.


 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
1/6/17
Skids by RCI. I had these from their recent group buy and was lagging to put them on. Finally made time to mount up. Also lubed the driveshaft while I was down there. I had a slight vibration accelerating from a stop and it seemed be almost gone with the driveshaft lube. BUT found a leak in the power steering, maybe an aged hose.

Cheers. Bottom side stouter than a pint of Guinness!
Mileage:119k
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
1/9/17
Ordered kings with heavier 600lb front and 205lb rear springs. I heard king is slow with build to order stuff. I hope not!!

1/15/17
No one takes my picture because I'm usually anchor


Not an FJ but it's a Toyota :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I just went back and saw all the updates you did. Awesome build.
Thanks for following along! I figured people were taking me a bit serious with the thread title and that I probably should just keep this to major updates or something important to say :lookaround: But thanks for the good words and if you have any suggestions on any build parts or install advice, please do so. Ie. "James you haven't done the scuba mod. Are you biggest poser mobile that only crosses puddles at the Krispy Kreme car meets?" That's quite possible! But I prefer my donuts in the 33" variety :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Scuba mod still not completed :lol. I'll bolt on my dz ladder tomorrow and continue on with the gas can rigging. Picking up some jerry cans. Building is gonna take a back seat as I drive up the PNW next week up to Vancouver and get some sightseeing in. But I'll be sticking to two jerry cans for 10gallons... About 90lbs on the rear spare mount. I'm confident it'll hold it. Not sure about an additional water jug mount. That's an additional 50 lbs for 5gallons. But maybe I'll reduce to a 2.5gallon to decrease weight. Then again, it'll be nice to have access to 15 gallons of fuel....?

Things awaiting install (not in order)
×Roof rack spacers (need paint)
×Dz ladder
×3rd overhead dome light
×Side sun visors
×Sun spot corrector (rear view mirror)
×Scuba mod
×Fluid replacements
Rear links and skids
×Jerry can mount
3rd can mount fabrication

 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
So I just got back from the PNW. Glad to say mileage stay consistently around 15-17mpg. Although when I hit OR, I started to notice the tank "topped off" but I was consistently a bit less than when I fill up personally. I usually fill 1/3 gallon more at least so when I had someone else fill my tank, I wasn't used to it. Sorry OR, I think I do a better job topping off my gas :grin:

Before I left, my suspension came in and I was getting those in so I could have them settle in. I didn't get to my gas can carrier, but started working on that this week. Chopped and gave it the ol' BFH treatment. Tomorrow, I'll drill the holes at work in our workshop for the 6-5.5 pattern. I just held it up to the spare through the backing and marked the two holes necessary. The bottom hole seemed to match up fine and the mount seems to sit straight, exactly in the middle of the spare's hub hole. Also need to pick up some a metal plate to bolt the Blitz can mounts too. I'll try and weigh everything and keep anyone updated how it effects the rear door.

Rear gas mount mod to a Olympic 4x4 rotopax mount.









 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I was hoping to improve ride quality after my recent install of new suspension. Not only to drive comfortably daily but on the trails. Previously i had removed my sway bars. One of my favorite "mods" and it's free! The FJ would eat up bumps for breakfast, lunch and dinner :grin.

But the car was exhibiting so much roll in the corners on and off road. Even on new coilovers with an increased spring rate, with the new higher center of gravity. Driving faster, this causes unsettling of the suspension and when you want response, you need the car to plant itself and go where you tell it. Enter the disconnect swaybar endlinks with OEM sway bar. This is just first half of the equation. I'll be changing the rear to a currie adjustable set up for improved oversteer and understeer balance.

Other small changes: fumoto drain valve 103N model shortened to spec, fresh castrol full synthetic 5w30, and switched diff fluid from unknown to schaeffer manufacturing 75w90 (gomack certified for big rigs/semi trucks).
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Maintenance day.

Replaced Diff T-Axle seals: Toyota PN#90311-47027 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal (LH) and PN#90311-47013 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal (RH)

First axle diff seals. Ugh. Lots of work but hoping my leaky diff probs go away. I found the easiest way to remove axles was hammer those nubs on the axle with a large screw driver.

I hadn't changed my transfer case fluid so I changed it from unknown brand to Schaeffer manufacturing 75w-90 to match my other gear oil. @129k miles

Installed Moog sway bar bushings and tie rod ends. It was $8 for thermoplastic d- bushings. Much stiffer than OEM. Not sure that's good or bad yet. My car is turning more colorful every mod though :grin:

Tomorrow, alignment.

To do list:
Hit the trails
Hayden trans and power steering coolers
Hit the trails
Coil tower and cam alignment tab reinforcement
Hit the trails

Not in this exact order but no time line in the mods. Just want to drive :roller:
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Great build thread! Where/how are you reinforcing the coil tower? And where to you get the Schaffer oil? Thx!
Thanks deb! I have total chaos coil tower buckets. I'm sure you've seen them but they're welded to both sides of the tower tying the upper control arm bolt in a solid structure. Toyota should had done this in the first place in my opinion. I was going to get a welder, maybe a mig but decided it's better to ask a fabricator to do it much better than I could.



I order Schaeffer from Amazon. I think it's $13/qt shipped which is fine with me since gear oil brands are limited in stores. I used Redline gear oils in the past but they're very top shelf and I don't need all that performance. Also Schaeffer is a semi- synthetic if that matters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Tomorrow planning to get a few extra beads of weld on the OE coil Bucky due to concern about its strength/integrity and have notices a little rust in the welds (scraped n painted)....

Is the Schaffer superior to MobilOne syn for engine? I change my oil every 3k mi....might be a waste lol But very interested in finding the BEST gear oil and had not heard of this. I know it's widely debated, but had reached the conclusion that non-syn was best for the diffs. ECGS is a big fan of Lucas. So any info on Schaffer would be appreciated!
Whoa Cool. Please share pictures of the welding. I want to see:bigthumb:

I'm not sure if Schaeffer will be superior to your current setup. The real test is longevity, testing whether after a certain amount of time or set miles if the oil is resisting corrosion and doing what it's supposed to be doing. I find that Mobil 1 tends to run thin. At one time Mobil 1 was known for making a false claim of full synthetic but i don't know if that's changed since. What I gathered is, don't get too brand loyal. There's better manufacturers and sometimes it's specific for engine, gear and coolant.

Also I've heard Wal-Mart supertech purchases their oil from big names and rebrands. As much as we change oil, I think we'll be okay on most premium brands.

Oh, one reason ECGS may recommend Non synth is they're usually not diluted and refined with chemicals as the full synth is. It's really more crude. It's really up to you but aftermarket diff manufacturers have their specific recommendations just like OEM. So i'd go with what manufacturers recommend to avoid premature wear


:cheers:
 
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