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Whenever I decide I have a budget for long travel rear end, then I'll be going with Ruffstuff front and rear. The option for custom bar sizes could only help, where the Currie may come up short. You'll probably get around to it before I do, so it'd be interesting to see which direction you head.
Good to know. I was doing some research on it just now. The Ruffstuff is almost $1k once you get all the parts. Hmmmm. And sbechtold says he disconnects it before hopping on a trail. Dunno if that is current but neither sound like that good of a deal. Hopefully I can live without. I'll have to remove some weight from the roof rack to fit in my garage so that will help lol.

I don't know how the HD swaybar works like the rufstuff. I suppose plenty of racers use them but I don't want to put the 14" kings on just to limit travel back to mid travel levels.
 

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Glad you are getting the same good results from ADDCO swaybar. I actually just bought a used anti-rock from blue room. I did that because I'm thinking switching to some longer shocks to gain more down travel. So my ADDCO will prevent me from achieving that. I read the same reviews you did about the anti-rock being too soft. However, I read the exact opposite from a couple guys on FB group, who claimed the anti-rock is stiffer than stock. I guess I'll find out myself how they compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #263 (Edited)
I don't know how the HD swaybar works like the rufstuff. I suppose plenty of racers use them but I don't want to put the 14" kings on just to limit travel back to mid travel levels.
Agreed, you'll have to build it for what you need. Most of the time. Sway bars are helpful for desert rigs (and on-road manners) that have softer spring rates. Where you need a compromise of both worlds of articulation and stability under pressure. If you're driving for leisure, it could be more 'lax and you could see how you like it without. You're swaybar less now right? I remember you b removed your addco bar but no front either right? I doubt it'll be much different.


Glad you are getting the same good results from ADDCO swaybar. I actually just bought a used anti-rock from blue room. I did that because I'm thinking switching to some longer shocks to gain more down travel.
I'd be glad to hear your experience too. I was skeptical of the past reviews but it seemed enough that if I was spending a bit more to have adjustable options, that's worthwhile. I wouldn't rule out the Currie completely but it's just the options available. It'll be a long time before I ever touch rear LT though because I'll be doing a gussetted rearend with links. Not planning to rush it
 

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Yeah I haven't had either sway bar for quite a while. If I could get one to stiffen the rear but not limit too much that would be the ticket. I'd prefer the rear to be a little stiff. Makes the front work a little harder.

A little bit can be gained by having the rear geometry just right. Shock position and level track bar.
 

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I have run both the Currie and RuffStuff swaybars. Here is my take on both.

Currie - long arms combined with a small diameter shaft meant there was not enough resistance to control the swaying of the fat trucks we drive. They were designed for a much lighter truck. There are adjustment holes on the arms, but even in the tightest setting my FJC swayed like the American flag in heavy wind. One could try to make shorter arms to increase the leverage and see if that helps, but the small diameter bar is still an issue.

RuffStuff - bar diameter is equal to a dana 60 axle shaft in size. You can build you arms any length you want to meet the packaging requirements on your truck. RS does sell an arm kit, but I ended up building my own. You need to tune the bar for your truck by turning it down until you like the way it performs. The tuning process start with you explaining your trucks weight, height, type of wheeling you do to the guys at RS, then will make a recommendation for the bar diameter starting point. Once you get the swaybar all installed you drive your tusk and determine if it too tight, then you send it back to RS for 1 free turning to reduce the bar diameter. You could also find a local machine shop to do the work. You rinse and repeat until you are happy with the bar setup.

My take on these two bar is one is mass produced that covers a number of lighter trucks and will provide and ok experience for a lot of people. The other is a completely custom personalized approach to your specific vehicle and allows you to tune the performance of swaybar to match your driving needs. For me I was not happy with the Currie, but I would consider using it if my truck were considerably lighter. I have my RS bar setup with a larger bar and very stiff setting. This allows me to drive on the road and it's a slot car experience. When I get to the trail it takes me about 10 minutes to disconnect the swaybar and have a slinky on the rocks.
 

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I have run both the Currie and RuffStuff swaybars. Here is my take on both.

Currie - long arms combined with a small diameter shaft meant there was not enough resistance to control the swaying of the fat trucks we drive. They were designed for a much lighter truck. There are adjustment holes on the arms, but even in the tightest setting my FJC swayed like the American flag in heavy wind.
Do you remember if your Currie was 1" diameter x 50" long with 21" arms (ce-9906-21)? I'm asking because my arms only have 1 hole on them so I wonder if we have the same.
 

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Do you remember if your Currie was 1" diameter x 50" long with 21" arms (ce-9906-21)? I'm asking because my arms only have 1 hole on them so I wonder if we have the same.
I honestly don't remember it's been so long ago. But I looked at the Currie website and it definitely was not the 50" bar. If I had to guess it would have been the 45" or 40" and 17" arms. Mine was mounted under the rear of the frame and it was just about as wide as the frame as measured inside the frame rails. The RS goes through the rear of the frame and the arms sit on the outside of the frame rails.

Here's a link to a pic of the current setup... you can see the bar going through the frame rail and the arms on the outside of the frame.

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c7/sbechtold/FJC/2014 Build/4A4B3487-78F9-412C-9435-ACAD2E67DD19_zpsoilayoyg.jpg

 

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Here's a couple of the difference between the bars. Sorry these are still on photobucket, so they may not show up, but click the link and you should be able to see them.
Yes I can see the pics. Thanks for checking it up. Feels like your Currie was the 40" one and it only came in 1" diameter. So I feel mine (same as all-pro) would probably be even softer than your old setup. Do you happen to have a picture of your Currie on your vehicle?
 

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Discussion Starter #272
Here you go...
Thanks for sharing. Such a well executed build up. What was your rear leaf setup equivalent to? Stock is 195lb-in. Not sure how that equates to leaf packs but I imagine it may be softer after the conversion from springs.


I'm curious how mine would work out.
Me too! Surely some difference in leaf and spring setups. Be awhile since I've driven any vehicles with leaf rears. Hoping for some positive feedback from your Currie joints.
 

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Thanks for sharing. Such a well executed build up. What was your rear leaf setup equivalent to? Stock is 195lb-in. Not sure how that equates to leaf packs but I imagine it may be softer after the conversion from springs.
No idea. Those springs were Deaver 62" long travel leafs. They were REALLY soft. 2 seasons of running through the Rubicon and I had to have them rebuilt. I will say that I spent a lot of time valving my coilovers. I've had them in and out about 10 times now to tune them. While the swaybar is very important, please spend time tuning your shocks. I made a major improvement in on and offroad driving through tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #274
No idea. Those springs were Deaver 62" long travel leafs. They were REALLY soft. 2 seasons of running through the Rubicon and I had to have them rebuilt. I will say that I spent a lot of time valving my coilovers. I've had them in and out about 10 times now to tune them. While the swaybar is very important, please spend time tuning your shocks. I made a major improvement in on and offroad driving through tuning.
Got it. That's what I was thinking with your LT leafs. I will spend time to tune it for the terrain when the time comes. This sway bar addition was an interim mod to support my rear mid travel set up until I change to LT rear links, shocks and bypasses. I've heard of many LT guys tuning out of their specific shocks and foregoing sways, but not sure of their intention and that their driving matches mine. @HeisKai mentioned it in another post

Most people can adapt and live with it and forget about it. Until one day they drive an FJ with swaybar and will notice what had been missing.
Too much of this going on and I was part of the problem
 

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I've heard of many LT guys tuning out of their specific shocks and foregoing sways
This is what I did before the RS bar was installed. I tightened up the slow speed rebound A LOT and that helped with the body sway on the road. You can tune a lot of the body roll out with the shocks... but at some point the returns diminish and the ride offroad will suffer.
 

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Discussion Starter #276
@sbechtold Exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I'm okay letting the sway bars handle the roll, as long the trade off for on/off road manners don't differ too much. I don't mind driving an offroad vehicle on the road at all. Maybe for your leafs, it might be an issue like the jeeps and wobble, but you remember the FJ before all the mods, the OE suspension was mild mannered and fairly easy to drive. I feel like I can get a good compromise for a desert rig without giving up too much for articulation. For example, if I really need to, I'd disconnects sways, but realistically I'd rather set it and forget it.
 

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Discussion Starter #277 (Edited)
Maxxine




4/13/19 mileage: ~160,500

In December, Maxxine had a run in with a Nissan Sentra. Asked the driver if she was distracted, she said she didn't see me as she merged into my lane with my front door already past her, 37 MTs whirring. Not exactly what I looking for on my trip out of town. Both parties were fine so we exchanged info and went on.

Thanks to @alson_dynamics Jason(https://www.instagram.com/alson_dynamics). He builds prerunners and lots of custom vehicles. He happened to be getting rid of his Trailer Products front fenders for the McNeil single piece front. Worked out for me because I like my OE hood with exhaust vents.



I acquired a rear set of McNeil fenders to match my Trailer Products fronts. I went with McNeil because they had a gas door mold already instead of a blank hole on the Trailer Products version. I had a body shop hard mount the rears instead of removable fender mounts.




Still need to measure and fit some mud flaps. Part of the reason going widebody. While I agree it looks cool with a little wheel and tire poke from the fender, I don't like kicking up water and rocks.



She's a 15footer and still needs some work. Mount magnetic door, re-gap passenger front fender, still needs love. I'll share some proper shots soon


 

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Discussion Starter #280
Do it right or do it over. My wife has been telling me to spend more and do it right the first time. Although I think she's talking about stuff around the house or taxes, I chose to apply it to the FJ :lol:

Angle grind, BFH, and got to work. Thought the Warrior Products spare extension mount would do it but I nixed that and knocked out the stock studs and drilled holes for the 1.25" spacer. No sloppy rear door from an extended mount. I can fit 37s no prob, maybe 39s, but we'll leave that for another day...
 

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