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Do it right or do it over. My wife has been telling me to spend more and do it right the first time. Although I think she's talking about stuff around the house or taxes, I chose to apply it to the FJ :lol:

Angle grind, BFH, and got to work. Thought the Warrior Products spare extension mount would do it but I nixed that and knocked out the stock studs and drilled holes for the 1.25" spacer. No sloppy rear door from an extended mount. I can fit 37s no prob, maybe 39s, but we'll leave that for another day...
Genius :blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #282 (Edited)
(Power Steering) Rush to Ouray

This is one mod I knew I wanted to do for the longest time. In fact, I had a tube and fin style cooler in my pile of parts. After seeing some possibilities with coolers and talking with some race shops (bad ideas), there's a lot of issues running just any old style. You may cause more problems than solve (in my opinion). The fact is, tube and fin have an oil passage to follow thru before the fluid can return (think of a path of least resistance). Plus fluid capacity is still limited to your OEM reservoir and you're using factory recommended Dex-III ATF.

1) Building my kit, I was able to choose the reservoir, lines, and cooler. I decided on a Derale unit for the value, but definitely would consider the Howe inline cooler instead. The design is much more well thought out, being ribbed instead of finned. This may allow you to run it in narrower places.

Both of these style heat sink coolers are single pass in-n-out and are a heat sink relying on pulling out the heat with the aluminum. I relate this to computer heat sinks which are solid chunks of ribbed metal instead of radiator style coolers with small fins that require air to pass through. The air cooling does help but the heat sink is in the larger direct fins.

2) Upping fluid capacity help aids in cooling since you're able to cycle through more fluid. In addition, the several aftermarket options offer an internal or external filter that will help keep your fluid cleaner. I spoke to a race shop and they don't bother with magnet filters like magnefilter. Filter media similar to engine oil filters work best.

The reservoir is heavy duty and huge. Fill up is about twice the capacity of the OE reservoirs. I converted to Swepco 715 power steering fluid[/URL]. There wasn't any really data in researching a new fluid other than finding PS fluid that is high paraffin base and Dexron-compatible if you plan to upgrade your system. Maybe someone could tell me more. I was worried that a non Dexron rated fluid would ruin the seals but I've ran the FJ under heavy conditions and the Swepco fluid under heavy conditions with no funny effects. The only recommendation is to use their flush kit with heavy duty mineral oil and remove all the old ATF that is abrasive. Swepco fluid is built to resist cavitation, anti foaming, aaaaand they run this on desert trophy trucks by some of the best in the industry.

Parts
Derale 13249 kit
Evil racing -6AN kit with 10ft hose and fittings
-10AN 45 or 90 degree fitting
PSC reservoir kit SR-146
1 yd of metal flat bar 1" width 3/16" thickness
1 plate of 3/16" thick 6x6"
M7x25mm x8 bolts/nuts/washers
M6x35mm x4 bolts/nuts/washers
Swepco flush kit (1 gallon flush oil, 3 quarts 715 PS fluid)

Install
1. Lift the vehicle properly with the tires off the ground. You'll have to flush with the Swepco mineral oil flush. It's gallon sized. I did the whole gallon just in case and after the 3rd quart it was showing pretty clear. Pull the smaller hose from the reservoir and plug the reservoir with a 10mm cap. Put the hose into a catch can.






2. Remove the skids plates. Remove the stock reservoir and lines attached to the pump feed and steering rack return nipple.



3. Loosen the rack line brackets to remove the return line and passenger side 19mm subframe bolt. You'll be making two brackets to mount the heat sink. One will run off the middle PS line bolt and the other (offset L bracket) of the subframe bolt. For the Derale ports, I used one -6AN 45° and one -6AN straight port.






4. Mount the new reservoir and measure up the the brackets. I repurposed the previous reservoir bracket. You'll want to bend some Z-shaped brackets to hold the reservoir in a firm position. Vibration is not good for power steering reservoirs.




5. After everything is soft mounted, you can reuse the OEM rubber hose from the steering rack to the heat sink for the low pressure side or return line(straight port). For the out port of the heat sink, measure and cut the return line with the provided -6AN hose with approximately 2.25ft and attach 90° -6AN fitting.

I was able to reuse the OEM feed line from the larger reservoir port with a -10AN fitting to the power steering pump. Test fit the hose and you'll see that it's too long. Cut ~1" off of the rubber hose on the PS pump side and the lines will match up.

Now that all the hoses match and clamps and brackets are tightened, fill with Swepco 715. Turn the steering, lock to lock, with the tires off the ground and let it take in the new fluid. Flush the system with the the extra 3 quarts. Make sure all ports, adapters, and brackets are snug and you're ready to rock!




 

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Discussion Starter #283
Thankful for friends that can fabricate. @Iconic_ fab prototyped a charcoal canister for our rigs to avoid getting pierced or tagged by any debris. After running the trails, I've already seen the abrasions starting to appear from rocky trails. The stock plastic canister is fairly resilient. Luckily when coming off a huge boulder that looked round, ended up being flat faced on the backside, sliding off it straight and the landing was so hard. I was able to tag as high the rear frame. Get
at @Iconic_ and tell him you want protection!


Install: 30 minutes
10, 12, 13mm sockets
Needle nose pliers
Remove two 12mm bolts on the rear facing and one 12mm up towards the front side.
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the rear facing bracket. Discard.
Bend tab hook on the front bracket mount in a flat position with needle nose pliers.
Slide skid protector over the charcoal canister. Locate rear holes and screw in 10mm bolts by hand.
Used included 3/4" spacer in between the skid and canister mount hole. Screw in 12mm bolt on the front facing by hand.
Screw two 12mm bolts on rear facing bracket by hand.
Once everything is positioned, final tighten to a snug fit (about 15ftlbs)

Not sure you'll see these in production but they're beefy and worth the added peace of mind. Make sure to reach out to iconic_ and tell him!
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Good job! I changed my mind, currently looking into getting some more made...
Nice! Thinner gauge sheet this time? This is friggen heavy duty. I hope people realize how easy it mounts up as well. I completed most of it in the sand flats parking lol
 

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Nice! Thinner gauge sheet this time? This is friggen heavy duty. I hope people realize how easy it mounts up as well. I completed most of it in the sand flats parking lol
Yep, 12 ga instead of 10 ga and slotted holes to make install easier. Should still be plenty beefy lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #288 (Edited)
The numbers don't lie. Just recommending oils blindly is a thing of the past. I've switched to Supertech aka Walmart brand. I'll perform 7500 mile oil change intervals confidently. $15.50 for a 5 gallon jug.

One concern that I did have on copper as that's a sign of wear metals but upon some searching, PPM was very low. Not worried about the latter of overheating so levels are looking good.

Per stratson.eu:
"If a different oil brand is used, the different formulation may remove the protective film and form a new film thereby providing a spike in the copper level again. If the engine oil is overheated or overdue for a change, corrosive acids may form that will attack the copper and other metals"

Comments regarding the analysis
JAMES: This oil seemed to work just fine. It's a little hard to compare to last time just because this interval was a lot shorter, and because silicon is a lot lower -- that improvement may account for some of the drop in aluminum and other metals. The viscosity stayed in grade, though again, this was a shorter interval, so
there wasn't as much time for the engine to shear the viscosity. But so far, so good. The silicon thing is a passing issue, aluminum looks better, and the TBN was plenty strong at 2.3. You'd be fine to run this oil longer next time -- you haven't exhausted it yet.

Explanation of the metals: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/services/report-explanation/*
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Install: Recaro Expert M Seats
Thoughts: going from Sparco fixed buckets to recliners was a treat. I wanted durability mixed with adjustable options so I opted for genuine leather bolsters with fabric center pads. I'm loving them. The bolsters just hug you and the seat pads are perfect foam mixed with a suspension pad underneath.

To do list:

Amp Research power steps
Bud Built mid skid to high clearance custom trans skid
Weld limit straps and reinforcements
Wiring panel: distribution block/lights/relays
Wilwood big brake kit
✔ Recaro expert M seats
✔ Addco rear sway bar
✔ OEM Oil Cooler
✔ Derale power steering cooler
✔ Centric Stoptech rear pads/braided lines
✔ LT front
✔ Diff drop
✔ Jersey built hubs
✔ Ebc front 7000 pads / slotted rotors / braided lines
✔ 17" wheels with Mastercraft MXT tires

Remove
✔ Doug Thorley Y pipe
 

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Discussion Starter #291
Bro. This time YOU are the bad influence. Seats look killer.
Thanks Dev! Glad to be of service :lookaround: I know it's not a cheap option but I'm on board with anything to improve comfort and performance. In general, I don't agree with over loading rigs with house furniture but one of my friends pointed out these captains chairs are an exception :lol:

Btw check your emailzzz
 

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Discussion Starter #292 (Edited)
10/28/19
Mileage: 174k miles
Current mood: wallet is feeling broke :lol:
What's new? Nothing lately but some good ol' hard driving. My thoughts on LT. If you're not up to maintenance often or budget is a concern, don't do it. Mid travel/ extended travel shocks will be plenty. While driving, forces are much harder and you'll be chasing noises and possible damage. Bent my reservoir mount 60° that caught on my tire. Oof. It was good that we stopped to do a walk around and spotted the mount. In the picture I had to loosen the resi and mount it on top of the bent plate. Also considering raising my rig 1" for aesthetics but not sure it's worth the trouble yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #293
RR racing Wilwood Aero6-DS 6 piston brake kit with 13.3" Rotors
Impressions: Holy schnikes! These are what every FJ needs. You'll never have to worry about enough braking with loading up the rig or towing. The math behind the piston surface area matches the FJ better than the 4runner upgrade. Pedal engagement is extremely positive and does not require much effort unlike the stock brakes. I wish the Trail Teams or TRD package were available with a performance brake caliper package. I'll see about recording
my brake distance soon.

Install
1. Lift vehicle with jack stands properly. One side at a time can be done.
2. Remove wheel
3. Remove axle nut cover
4. Remove 36mm axle nut, rated at 205lb-ft!
5. Remove brake caliper bolts with 19mm socket rated 90lb-ft.
6. Loosen brake lines with 10mm flare nut wrench and catch brake fluid with a container.
7. Remove brake rotor. Use a 8x1.0mm bolt to separate rotor from hub
8. Remove (4) 17mm nuts for removing the hub to access the brake dust shield.
9. Replace brake dust shields for 13" rotors with part #47781-60140 (right) and #47782-60140 (left).
10. Install hub and torque (4) nuts to 45lb-ft, snug plus a couple oomphs.
11. Torque axle nut to 205lb-ft!
12. Use a dremel to trim 5mm from the tip of the dust shield closest to the caliper body for clearance. Clean and paint bare edges.
13. Install new rotor and caliper. Torque bracket to spindle mount at 90lb-ft and caliper to bracket at 50lb-ft with loctite.
14. Bend OE brake line to fit adapter and tighten the lines to snug since they're NPT (pipe thread)
15. Bleed lines and replace fluid with dot 5.1 (compatible with dot 3/4)
16. Install wheels and admire.
 

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