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Question in regards to the D3 roof rack, or whatever it's called as I bought one. My fj did not come with a roof rack installed, and there are no instructions on how to install this rack. Great! I'm pretty good a winging it, but do you have any tips/instructions on how you installed it to the roof so it doesn't leak? Thx.
 

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Discussion Starter #302
The past couple weeks I was feeling really lazy. The weather wasn't helping and being comfy inside due to COVID stay-at-home orders. Got off my butt and made it a work-on-FJ quarantine.

Now, you might wonder why I'm doing cam tabs and limit straps now, rather than before when I installed my long travel. If money is tight or time is a constraint, later is possible. It wasn't at all necessary, even though it feels tons more confident now that it's completed.

Cam tabs
1. Blast them off with a air chisel. It helped force the OEM cam tabs bend open for access.

2. Use a reciprocating saw/seawall to free the spot welds. You'll be sitting there with a chisel forever.
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3. Remove all 8 cam tabs and remember the fronts are larger than the rears. 3 spot welds vs 2 welds to remove. Tack and weld new your kit.
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4. Take your time. You'll have to burn the invidual pieces from the kit and then tack them in place. and welded the sides and as you can see, backside/inner edge.
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5. Splitting this in a 2 day job was much easier but can be done in the same day. Will have to spend some time grinding the slag with a smaller bit but will save it when I do the Marlin reinforcements.
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Limit straps
1. Test fit straps in position. Line it up so the strap is straight in-line with the tab on your LCA. If it's off, you run the risk of it snapping. Also place the collar as high as you can on the frame.
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2. Tack and burn.
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3. Strap it up
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Plenty of more to go. Thanks for following!
 

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Discussion Starter #307
Updating the list so I don't forget what needs to get done and there's still plenty to do. Lots of new stuff to add to the list and hopefully I can knock out some things starting Monday. Still have a 1-2 weeks of quarantine (??) and the weather has been cruddy. With 175k on the motor, not sure I should spend the money on a timing chain kit, but definitely needs some maintenance before the S/C.

To do list:

Front Timing cover reseal/Timing chain?
Magnuson Supercharger w/2.7 pulley
DeatschWerks 10 micron fuel filter
CSF aluminum radiator
LCE e-fan
Bud Built mid skid to high clearance custom trans skid
Setrab AT cooler
Rear braided lines
Wiring panel: distribution block/lights/relays
ARB compressor to 2.5 gallon tank.
Double Shear tower gussets
Dirt King Spindle Gusset Swap
Marlin Crawler HD LCA Brace
Dirt Designs Bypass Mounts with 2.5 bypass shocks
Locked bumpstops
Fix spare tire/wheel
Rock sliders
Sell? Amp Research power steps

✔ Weld limit straps and reinforcements
✔ Wilwood big brake kit
✔ Recaro expert M seats
✔ Addco rear sway bar
✔ OEM Oil Cooler
✔ Derale power steering cooler
✔ Centric Stoptech rear pads/braided lines
✔ LT front
✔ Diff drop
✔ Jersey built hubs
✔ Ebc front 7000 pads / slotted rotors / braided lines
✔ 17" wheels with Mastercraft MXT tires

Remove
✔ Ebc front 7000 pads / slotted rotors / braided lines
 

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Discussion Starter #309
Finally picked up my own personal welder. I know everyone is about Miller but this harbor freight one got good reviews and people have built race chassis with it. Good enough for me and I still have a lot to learn.
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Killer list!!! :cool:
Slowly knock them down and enjoy the build. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #310
Not really much done. I'm slowly getting acclimated to the time back at work. Thankfully being in the critical defense industry, I am thankful for being able to work. What time I do have is getting the truck back up with some small things been meaning to get done, but not on the list.

Installed Poly Performance Taco Tabs for 07-09 FJs, Tacoma/GX/4runner. (Sorry 2010+ guys, I don't think they're available YET)

It's a great bit of hardware that locks in the alignment with 3 different settings at each corner of your front end and retains a range close to your stock alignment cams. For most of the people, most of you are not running stock alignments and may have requested a certain range, such as 0 degrees camber and minimum caster or 0 degrees camber and maximum caster. You can still achieve this as long as your stock or aftermarket parts around it support it as well. If you could achieve it before the PP Taco Tabs, you should be able to get it back to the same alignment.

Previously I was at 0 degrees with 3.7 degrees caster. Settings like that would look like the cam bolts facing in toward the body on front and back (full minimum caster and full positive camber). Now I changed to -1.5 camber and 5.7 degrees caster (full maximum caster and neutral camber). And all you'll have to change in the future is your toe setting and maintaining your bushings.

Installation is similar to removing the lower control arm. It involves removing the two 19mm spindle carrier bolts, 19mm coilover bolt, and 19mm alignment cam bolts. This allows you to release tension on the control arm from the coilover and droop the lower arm to install the cam bolts.

Stock alignment cam bolt, facing inwards on the front.
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In this picture, you can see the silver plates and the bolt position looks slightly off. The position of plates will help decide. This was a recommended setting by Poly Performance and may change. High positive caster feels better in sport compact cars, but maybe too light and floaty for taller SUV vehicles.
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Wheel shot of the clearance.
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Alignment print out
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Walk around of the FJ in current status

Enjoy!
 
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