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Discussion Starter #22
Good! You realized i don't take much of this building seriously. This is more of a recollection of things I've done to the vehicle and hopefully others that are in my same boat can find it useful. For example, when I searched people with 16x8 -25 offset on the FJ. Only Tacoma Tundra threads showed up. The closest was 16x8 -13 with smaller tires on the "boontoolies" FJ. It was extremely helpful at the time so if anyone is interested, maybe my useless blabbering may confirms someone's idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
AFE exhaust on today. You can see that the stock exhaust looks a bit more complex than the AFE. Not sure if AFE took everyone's advice from 2008 but I read there was fitment issues with hitting the rear crossmember. I did not have those issues. Although they could have made the rear axle half a bit more solid, but it feels pretty tight once the 2.5" clamp connector is on. By the way, I kept with the 2.5" piping. I think stock is 2.3 inches. Not expecting any gains other than keeping things out of the way. If you know about exhausts, you're bound to crack something eventually if you like to use your exhaust as a slider when wheeling, it acts like a huge lever. If you think that's cool, good for you, but I've learned plenty from my ricer days of building a proper exhaust for clearance and how easy it can be to create leaks or crack manifolds. I love the FJ more and more as I dive into her. Hope you guys don't mind all the posts. Been waiting on some oil seal gaskets, but tomorrow I'll tackle the gussetted spindles.


 

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..... I love the FJ more and more as I dive into her. Hope you guys don't mind all the posts.....
Good to hear!
I look forward to seeing your new additions and modifications! :rocker:
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #25
1/6/17
Skids by RCI. I had these from their recent group buy and was lagging to put them on. Finally made time to mount up. Also lubed the driveshaft while I was down there. I had a slight vibration accelerating from a stop and it seemed be almost gone with the driveshaft lube. BUT found a leak in the power steering, maybe an aged hose.

Cheers. Bottom side stouter than a pint of Guinness!
Mileage:119k
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
1/9/17
Ordered kings with heavier 600lb front and 205lb rear springs. I heard king is slow with build to order stuff. I hope not!!

1/15/17
No one takes my picture because I'm usually anchor


Not an FJ but it's a Toyota :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I just went back and saw all the updates you did. Awesome build.
Thanks for following along! I figured people were taking me a bit serious with the thread title and that I probably should just keep this to major updates or something important to say :lookaround: But thanks for the good words and if you have any suggestions on any build parts or install advice, please do so. Ie. "James you haven't done the scuba mod. Are you biggest poser mobile that only crosses puddles at the Krispy Kreme car meets?" That's quite possible! But I prefer my donuts in the 33" variety :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Scuba mod still not completed :lol. I'll bolt on my dz ladder tomorrow and continue on with the gas can rigging. Picking up some jerry cans. Building is gonna take a back seat as I drive up the PNW next week up to Vancouver and get some sightseeing in. But I'll be sticking to two jerry cans for 10gallons... About 90lbs on the rear spare mount. I'm confident it'll hold it. Not sure about an additional water jug mount. That's an additional 50 lbs for 5gallons. But maybe I'll reduce to a 2.5gallon to decrease weight. Then again, it'll be nice to have access to 15 gallons of fuel....?

Things awaiting install (not in order)
×Roof rack spacers (need paint)
×Dz ladder
×3rd overhead dome light
×Side sun visors
×Sun spot corrector (rear view mirror)
×Scuba mod
×Fluid replacements
Rear links and skids
×Jerry can mount
3rd can mount fabrication

 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
So I just got back from the PNW. Glad to say mileage stay consistently around 15-17mpg. Although when I hit OR, I started to notice the tank "topped off" but I was consistently a bit less than when I fill up personally. I usually fill 1/3 gallon more at least so when I had someone else fill my tank, I wasn't used to it. Sorry OR, I think I do a better job topping off my gas :grin:

Before I left, my suspension came in and I was getting those in so I could have them settle in. I didn't get to my gas can carrier, but started working on that this week. Chopped and gave it the ol' BFH treatment. Tomorrow, I'll drill the holes at work in our workshop for the 6-5.5 pattern. I just held it up to the spare through the backing and marked the two holes necessary. The bottom hole seemed to match up fine and the mount seems to sit straight, exactly in the middle of the spare's hub hole. Also need to pick up some a metal plate to bolt the Blitz can mounts too. I'll try and weigh everything and keep anyone updated how it effects the rear door.

Rear gas mount mod to a Olympic 4x4 rotopax mount.









 

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Discussion Starter #33
I was hoping to improve ride quality after my recent install of new suspension. Not only to drive comfortably daily but on the trails. Previously i had removed my sway bars. One of my favorite "mods" and it's free! The FJ would eat up bumps for breakfast, lunch and dinner :grin.

But the car was exhibiting so much roll in the corners on and off road. Even on new coilovers with an increased spring rate, with the new higher center of gravity. Driving faster, this causes unsettling of the suspension and when you want response, you need the car to plant itself and go where you tell it. Enter the disconnect swaybar endlinks with OEM sway bar. This is just first half of the equation. I'll be changing the rear to a currie adjustable set up for improved oversteer and understeer balance.

Other small changes: fumoto drain valve 103N model shortened to spec, fresh castrol full synthetic 5w30, and switched diff fluid from unknown to schaeffer manufacturing 75w90 (gomack certified for big rigs/semi trucks).
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Maintenance day.

Replaced Diff T-Axle seals: Toyota PN#90311-47027 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal (LH) and PN#90311-47013 Type-T Axle Shaft Oil Seal (RH)

First axle diff seals. Ugh. Lots of work but hoping my leaky diff probs go away. I found the easiest way to remove axles was hammer those nubs on the axle with a large screw driver.

I hadn't changed my transfer case fluid so I changed it from unknown brand to Schaeffer manufacturing 75w-90 to match my other gear oil. @129k miles

Installed Moog sway bar bushings and tie rod ends. It was $8 for thermoplastic d- bushings. Much stiffer than OEM. Not sure that's good or bad yet. My car is turning more colorful every mod though :grin:

Tomorrow, alignment.

To do list:
Hit the trails
Hayden trans and power steering coolers
Hit the trails
Coil tower and cam alignment tab reinforcement
Hit the trails

Not in this exact order but no time line in the mods. Just want to drive :roller:
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Great build thread! Where/how are you reinforcing the coil tower? And where to you get the Schaffer oil? Thx!
Thanks deb! I have total chaos coil tower buckets. I'm sure you've seen them but they're welded to both sides of the tower tying the upper control arm bolt in a solid structure. Toyota should had done this in the first place in my opinion. I was going to get a welder, maybe a mig but decided it's better to ask a fabricator to do it much better than I could.



I order Schaeffer from Amazon. I think it's $13/qt shipped which is fine with me since gear oil brands are limited in stores. I used Redline gear oils in the past but they're very top shelf and I don't need all that performance. Also Schaeffer is a semi- synthetic if that matters.
 

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Thanks deb! I have total chaos coil tower buckets. I'm sure you've seen them but they're welded to both sides of the tower tying the upper control arm bolt in a solid structure. Toyota should had done this in the first place in my opinion. I was going to get a welder, maybe a mig but decided it's better to ask a fabricator to do it much better than I could.



I order Schaeffer from Amazon. I think it's $13/qt shipped which is fine with me since gear oil brands are limited in stores. I used Redline gear oils in the past but they're very top shelf and I don't need all that performance. Also Schaeffer is a semi- synthetic if that matters.
Thanks - awesome info! Didn't know those even existed. Tomorrow planning to get a few extra beads of weld on the OE coil Bucky due to concern about its strength/integrity and have notices a little rust in the welds (scraped n painted). But good to know I can replace them with these beefy items!

Is the Schaffer superior to MobilOne syn for engine? I change my oil every 3k mi....might be a waste lol But very interested in finding the BEST gear oil and had not heard of this. I know it's widely debated, but had reached the conclusion that non-syn was best for the diffs. ECGS is a big fan of Lucas. So any info on Schaffer would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Tomorrow planning to get a few extra beads of weld on the OE coil Bucky due to concern about its strength/integrity and have notices a little rust in the welds (scraped n painted)....

Is the Schaffer superior to MobilOne syn for engine? I change my oil every 3k mi....might be a waste lol But very interested in finding the BEST gear oil and had not heard of this. I know it's widely debated, but had reached the conclusion that non-syn was best for the diffs. ECGS is a big fan of Lucas. So any info on Schaffer would be appreciated!
Whoa Cool. Please share pictures of the welding. I want to see:bigthumb:

I'm not sure if Schaeffer will be superior to your current setup. The real test is longevity, testing whether after a certain amount of time or set miles if the oil is resisting corrosion and doing what it's supposed to be doing. I find that Mobil 1 tends to run thin. At one time Mobil 1 was known for making a false claim of full synthetic but i don't know if that's changed since. What I gathered is, don't get too brand loyal. There's better manufacturers and sometimes it's specific for engine, gear and coolant.

Also I've heard Wal-Mart supertech purchases their oil from big names and rebrands. As much as we change oil, I think we'll be okay on most premium brands.

Oh, one reason ECGS may recommend Non synth is they're usually not diluted and refined with chemicals as the full synth is. It's really more crude. It's really up to you but aftermarket diff manufacturers have their specific recommendations just like OEM. So i'd go with what manufacturers recommend to avoid premature wear


:cheers:
 

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Ok will try to get pix of the reinforcement welds.

Thx for advice on oil - seems like everyone has their fave idea and there's not much consensus out there. Not as concerned about engine as I swap so often (you're gonna be so glad for that Fumoto!) but very interested in the diffs n TC. If there's something better than Lucas dino I want to know!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
@debFJVT best to stick to what the builder or whomever is building your diff recommends. I saw that you're going new ring gear. They would recommend the best match for your set up. Best gear oil could really change depending on your type of driving or differential type. On the deep end, synthetics could do more harm or not be beneficial to your drivetrain.
:cheers:
 
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