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So how does the 6" lift compare on the streets compared to before you lifted it that high? (seriously curious)



Honestly I started out with a spacer lift then onto a 3" lift then to 6" lift then I added the OME coils. Everything was fine until I stacked the Fabtech & OME together. Way to much and the suspension was maxed out downward and the CV angles were brutal. So I went threw two sets both sides including bearings.

It was difficult To keep it tracking down the road as it would wonder all over the road. The steering was so touchy and responsive it was scary especially when cruising over 70mph. And yes it felt a little tipsy on some steep off camber trail climbs.

I finally rented a huge shop and for the past 5 months I have disassembled and rebuilt everything and I mean everything! pulled the OME and replaced with extended coilovers and UCA's.

I'm moving up to 37" A/T tires and 2" wheel spacers. I went back and redid my BMC and the rear pinch weld and bump stops. I wanted to add a 1" Body spacer lift but I have run out of any E-Brake adjustment. So I will likely disconnect them in order to do the body lift.

Pictures will soon follow if I ever get the cash up to purchase the 37" tires. My alternator just fried and now my A/C compressor just crapped out!:crying

I will post a few pictures tomorrow after I install the newly powder coated sliders and rear bumper. :rocker:

But back to what you originally asked is that the ride after this latest round of lifting should be amazing and feel real stable on road and off!:rocker::clap:
 

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Anyone know if I will need bmc for 33's wt 3" lift and 1.25" spacers?
That's what I was wondering too. I'm not sure I understand the mechanics behind it all. If I already have the 3" and 33" tires with no rub, why would it rub simply by pushing them out 1.25"?
 

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That's what I was wondering too. I'm not sure I understand the mechanics behind it all. If I already have the 3" and 33" tires with no rub, why would it rub simply by pushing them out 1.25"?
If you don't have a rubbing issue then you don't need the spacers. It all really depends on your current backspacing on your rims and what type of 33" tires your currently running. Not all tires are truly sized correctly, some run smaller and some bigger.

Now remember that adding a spacer moves your wheel further away from the hub adding space outwardly so when you clock the wheel all the way left or right it will bring the wheel closer to the Body mount.

How do I know...because that's what happened to me and I ended up doing the BMC In order to keep the 1:25 spacers.
 

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If you don't have a rubbing issue then you don't need the spacers. It all really depends on your current backspacing on your rims and what type of 33" tires your currently running. Not all tires are truly sized correctly, some run smaller and some bigger.

Now remember that adding a spacer moves your wheel further away from the hub adding space outwardly so when you clock the wheel all the way left or right it will bring the wheel closer to the Body mount.

How do I know...because that's what happened to me and I ended up doing the BMC In order to keep the 1:25 spacers.
My reason for the spacers was looks and a mild increase in stability, but those things aren't that big of a deal to me.
 

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Added 1.25 Trail Sport wheel spacers a few days ago. It drastically changed the driving dynamics of the FJ. The suspension cycles better now due to the extra leverage against the coilover.

Plus it gives it a nice, completed stance.



 

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My reason for the spacers was looks and a mild increase in stability, but those things aren't that big of a deal to me.
I honestly like the look of a wider stance and it definitely helps the stability and the COG. It's for these reasons that spacers are totally justifiable.:lol:
 

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I honestly like the look of a wider stance and it definitely helps the stability and the COG. It's for these reasons that spacers are totally justifiable.:lol:
Yeah, just not sure I want to fool with BMC if spacers require it.
 

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That's what I was wondering too. I'm not sure I understand the mechanics behind it all. If I already have the 3" and 33" tires with no rub, why would it rub simply by pushing them out 1.25"?
What you can end up with is them rubbing the fender liner at the pinch weld of the body, not the body mount. I ended up removing my fender liners and my fender flares because of rubbing, but 90% of that was when the suspension was articulated in a way that you had body lean, etc.
 

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This is what I have, though this is not a pic of my vehicle.
I loved my Hankook MTs when I had them on my 2004 Tacoma. However, I couldn't get them to fit no matter how much firewall modding I did (the cab mount was underneath the clutch).

On all of the new 4Runners, FJC and Tacomas, if you can squeeze a little more caster out of your spindles/UCAs, you might be able to clear.

Getting back to your original thought, You probably will hit the body mount at full lock. If you have a fab shop or a very will respected mechanics shop, they may be able to do the BMC for you for a reasonable cost.
 

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What you can end up with is them rubbing the fender liner at the pinch weld of the body, not the body mount. I ended up removing my fender liners and my fender flares because of rubbing, but 90% of that was when the suspension was articulated in a way that you had body lean, etc.
I loved my Hankook MTs when I had them on my 2004 Tacoma. However, I couldn't get them to fit no matter how much firewall modding I did (the cab mount was underneath the clutch).

On all of the new 4Runners, FJC and Tacomas, if you can squeeze a little more caster out of your spindles/UCAs, you might be able to clear.

Getting back to your original thought, You probably will hit the body mount at full lock. If you have a fab shop or a very will respected mechanics shop, they may be able to do the BMC for you for a reasonable cost.
Thanks for the info. I think I'll just leave it be. I was just curious about them and thought they might have been an easy addition.
 

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This is one look
 

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