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To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/misc-technical-discussion/135405-2010-power-steering-resivoir-relocation-dual-battery.html



I did this project on my 2011 after I saw a picture of it done on and Aussie rig. So credit for the idea goes down under. :bigthumb:

This is a pretty straight forward job. Relocation of the power steering resivoir by extending the lines to free up the battery mount....nothing fancy. The trickiest part is bending the resivoir bracket to fit studs near the firewall.

Parts:

-10 line, 5 feet recommended (5 feet should give at least 6 inches extra, you will need to cut to fit) and 2 hose clamps for it.
-6 Line, 5 feet recommended (5 feet should give at least 6 inches extra, you will need to cut to fit) and 2 hose clamps for it.
#12 metric nuts with washers, 2 each
Power Steering fluid, 1 pint


I used Aeroquip Push-Loc hose for its flexible yet tough rubber exterior. It's not designed to be used with standard hose clamps but we are dealing with the "low" pressure part of the system here and IMO they are fine in this application. I used -6 for the small line and -10 for the larger line. You will need about 4 feet of one and 4.5 feet of the other. Be safe buy 5 feet of each so you can adjust for the amount of "slack" you like in the hose routing. You will also need a pint of new PS fluid.



I'd recommend that you remove the resivoir bottle from the bracket and remove the bracket to mod it first. This way if you decide to stop you haven't drained your PS system.


Start by modding the bracket by removing the middle leg. Then straighten and rebend one of the other legs (depending on which you choose will determine the direction the bottle faces) in order to fit the bracket level across 2 of the studs in the between the rear of the front fender and the firewall. The bracket should turn out similar to this:





You will need 2 #12 nuts and washers to secure the bracket to the studs. Don't secure this yet though it will be easier for you to work in this area if you tighten these up last. Should look similar to this




Next the point of no return


Start by removing the skid from under the truck and put a drip pan down. (You're gonna spill, no way around it)

Remove the large PS line at it's connection to the PS pump on the engine and let drain into the pan. If you're lucky this will have enough suction to partially drain some of the fluid from the smaller line and it will drip less when you disconnect it.

Next slide a hose clamp on the -10 line and slide the line onto the PS pump. Secure with clamp. (Leave excess -10 line coiled up out of the way on top of the motor. This way the PS pump isn't dripping in your face for the step ;) )

Next remove the lower end of the smaller line and let drain as needed. Remove the PS resivoir from the truck while that drains.

Now if your lucky you can fit the -6 line onto the stock hard line and clamp down. IF your like me (and not lucky) this will be a big bi7ch because -6 is a little smaller than it's metric equivilant and you'll push the stock hard line through it's holding bracket. If this happens to you too, just unbolt the little bracket and pull the entire line under the truck where you have more room to push the hose on and clamp down, then put everything back. :)




Route your lines around the battery mount and under the tube that connect the air box to the fender to you liking.



Now mock up the bracket you made and place the resivoir in the holder and check the slack and hose routing is as you want then cut the lines to fit the barbs on the resivoir.

Put your clamps on the hoses and reconnect to the fluid bottle.
*****Warning***** Do not push the small line on the resivoir in the bracket without supporting it. It's plastic and the -6 line is a tight fit so make sure you are supporting the plastic barb. It was easier for me to do this holding the bottle rather than trying to do it mounted in the truck.
The -10 line should fit easily enough that it won't matter if the bottle is mounted or not.


Double check the clamps and make sure you snug down the nuts on the resivoir bracket. Fill the resivoir and bleed the system, then top off fluid. Everything should come out similar to this




**Then you can relocate that AC line connector bracket per the Prado LC150 battery tray instructions and your battery mount is free for a battery :D



 
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