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Thanks for your reply.

Do you change both hub/bearing at one time or each one separate!

I have close to yours problem.
My steering wheel shacked and there is a little movement in the highway. Now I have sounds first from the bearing and two days ago the is another sounds. And the problems start showing. .

I replaced the pads and rotors
The shaking when brack gone.

Long story man.. my FJ 2008 a lots of parts stock. 😊..

《ωαℓєєє ☆ αℓσтαιвι》
 

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Since I'm working on mine a little at a time (not my primarily vehicle), I'm replacing everything on the driver's side first, and then moving to the passenger side and changing everything there.

In your case, you can pretty easily test if your bearing/hub is bad by jacking it up, grabbing the tire and seeing if it moves in/out. Your description sounds like it could be your steering tie rod ends being worn as well.
 

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I think it's both the bearing hub & the steering tie rod.

Because the noisy sound coming when driving and with more speed more noisy sound.

The rotors & and pads new and the tires. So it's the bearing ..

I will check again and see.

Thanks again speedRey for your reply and helping. 👍

《ωαℓєєє ☆ αℓσтαιвι》
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Since I'm working on mine a little at a time (not my primarily vehicle), I'm replacing everything on the driver's side first, and then moving to the passenger side and changing everything there.

In your case, you can pretty easily test if your bearing/hub is bad by jacking it up, grabbing the tire and seeing if it moves in/out. Your description sounds like it could be your steering tie rod ends being worn as well.



I think it's both the bearing hub & the steering tie rod.

Because the noisy sound coming when driving and with more speed more noisy sound.

The rotors & and pads new and the tires. So it's the bearing ..

I will check again and see.

Thanks again speedRey for your reply and helping. 👍

《ωαℓєєє ☆ αℓσтαιвι》

There are three possibilities at work here. With the tire in the air, hold the tire on the right and left sides and wiggle it. If there is play, bad tie-rods. Now, hold the top and bottom of the tire and shake. If there is play, it's either a bad bearing or a bad ball joint. How to tell the difference you ask? Look at the spindle while shaking the tire. If the entire spindle is moving, it's a bad ball joint. However, if the spindle stays still and the axle can be seen moving with the tire, it's a bad bearing.

Hope that helps a little. Let us know what you find.:rocker:
 

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Hey jeepconvert, I have my old bearing set, and was curious if there anything to salvage, or can they be rebuilt? I will be getting a set from you soon so that I can have a back up. I just hate throwing parts away.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Hey jeepconvert, I have my old bearing set, and was curious if there anything to salvage, or can they be rebuilt? I will be getting a set from you soon so that I can have a back up. I just hate throwing parts away.
The mount bolts and the hub are re-usable. that's about it. I would never recommend using an old seal and the bearing is obviously the issue, so that's out. The big problem is when you try to press the hub and bearing apart. It takes a well placed jig to get in between the parts and is a real pain.

Now, having said that, there are some uses for the old units: door stop, paper weight, boat anchor, wheel chock, hung from a chain as a "set of danglies" from the rear hitch, conversation piece in a man cave, etc.

:rofl:>:D
 

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The mount bolts and the hub are re-usable. that's about it. I would never recommend using an old seal and the bearing is obviously the issue, so that's out. The big problem is when you try to press the hub and bearing apart. It takes a well placed jig to get in between the parts and is a real pain.

Now, having said that, there are some uses for the old units: door stop, paper weight, boat anchor, wheel chock, hung from a chain as a "set of danglies" from the rear hitch, conversation piece in a man cave, etc.

:rofl:>:D
Bwahahaha!!!

Saving up to order back up set as we speak...
 

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Are these new hubs or are they used/reconditioned?
Toyota recommends re-pressing 2x then throw away.. Just wondering.

Thanks.
 

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You show up with the beer and we can swap them out in the shop.:rocker: I'm on my third set so far, myself. It's the price we pay to play...
Does your offer still hold true if I bring in my rig from Michigan?

Either way I'll be ordering these - both sides. But I also need the axle seals. Can you provide that too?
 

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Discussion Starter #116
Does your offer still hold true if I bring in my rig from Michigan?

Either way I'll be ordering these - both sides. But I also need the axle seals. Can you provide that too?
Unfortunately, not anymore. I'm in the process of moving locations. I can still get the units out to you but, my play space is being used up as an actual warehouse, now.

I have the spindle seals that go on the back side between the spindle and halfshaft. I don't have the diff/axle seal, though.

:rocker:
 

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Just ordered the $390.00 set/pair for my 2007 .
 

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Unfortunately, not anymore. I'm in the process of moving locations. I can still get the units out to you but, my play space is being used up as an actual warehouse, now.

I have the spindle seals that go on the back side between the spindle and halfshaft. I don't have the diff/axle seal, though.

:rocker:
I'm ready to order but... do I "need" the diff/axle seals?
 
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