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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,

I (and probably some others) could sure benefit from a "how to touch up dings in your paint" lesson.

I've done it before and it never looks right.

I've a couple of minor dings and one or two through the primer.

Sanding down the edge, applying the touch up, ...

If anyone who knows how to do this RIGHT I'd sure appreciate the 5 minute write up.

Thanks - Bob
 

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Unfortunately, touch ups are always going to appear just as that...touch ups. Even some of the better body shop guys that I know have mixed results with simple touch ups and getting them to look good....it is just not in the nature of those little paint bottles.

That said...I had a multitude of chips in my TRD within the first few months of owning it. Having painted the FJ 18 months ago with some quality paint...only one chip to date and that one was my fault.

Doc
 

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Apply the matching touch up paint, let it dry. When you are satisfied with the coverage on the dings, apply a clear coat paint. Our FJ's body colors are made of base paint + clear coat.

This is where I order the touch paint and clear coat in a bottle for my vehicles;
Paintscratch
 

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I am a bodyman and sometimes on rock chips people want us to touch them up so they don't notice it anymore. Yeah right! I can come real close to getting it perfect and have a few times but for the most part you will still see it in the right light, here is how I do it. I usually block the chip with fine grit sand paper 1500 grit or finer, not a lot just enough to give the paint something to stick to and it also cleans up the edge of the paint. I then apply one little dab of basecoat using a small touch up brush, I am careful to only get the paint inside the chip. Once the paint dries I will check to see if I need another coat If not I then dab clear coat in the chip and allow it to flash for 10 minutes or so and check to see if the chip is completely filled. If there is still a dip present I will apply a second coat and allow it to dry completely, usually a couple of hours. Once the clearcoat is dry I use a small block(2" paint stick) with the same 1500 grit paper and block it flat hopefully not sanding through the surrounding clearcoat. You can't go crazy here you must do your best to stay right on top of the dabbed spot! Once I have it the way I want it I go through my buffing sequence, white wool pad with rubbing compound, a swirl remover with a waffle foam pad then follow up with a hand polish or wax.......almost as good as new.:bigthumb:
 
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