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Discussion Starter #21
Don't forget, before you use it for the 1st time, you have to have water in the black tank as well. Otherwise you'll create the dreaded Pyramid of :poop:.

It's not an OEM 4 bolt receiver. There's 2 more bolts higher up under the bumper "cover".

View attachment 1130075

View attachment 1130076
oh, and thank you for the black water tank info; good to remember as a refresher. yes, i've had a couple of "RV waste station fails" with a 1984 Toyota 22R Dolphin mini motor home we had for a year. Luckily no-one with a camera was watching....
 

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Discussion Starter #23
@Hannibal , thanks for this; I actually just found that page. Around 2006 my Dad when to the dealer in Colorado and got that Issue::01. He mailed it to me last year when we bought the '12.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Hey @Hannibal and team. Dan the parts mgr at my toyota dealer (known him since '96) looked up my VIN and says that my FJ shows it has a factory installed transmission cooler in the radiator. do you show that to be correct for some models?

Also, he says the 6 bolt receiver that I have is the only Toyota one he has, says they dont have the two sided frame mount receiver, like the Curt you recommended.

Lastly - so are you and others saying that even with the 6 bolt Toyota receiver, putting on the WDH will spread/bend those bolts?

Thanks!

Travis
 

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There's only 1 OEM Hitch for all Model Years.

Your trailer, gear, food/water, WDH, batteries, propane, gray/black tanks, etc. is pushing the MAX weight. The frame mounted hitch, like the Curt, is better and safer. The weight doesn't get distributed with an OEM hitch, so having a WDH doesn't do anything. Take all that weight off the rear cross member and transfer it to the frame rails and all that torque off the OEM hitch 6 bolts and spread it out.

Now think PANIC Stops with all that weight at the center of the cross member vs the frame rails.

The factory installed transmission cooler in the radiator is insufficient. Something like this is cheap insurance.

Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 689 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler: Automotive

Here's a pic of a members aftermarket trans cooler installed. FJtest recommends a different way of mounting. Check with him.

trans_cooler.jpg


I learned all this the hard way as I trusted the "experts" at Camping World RV. I'm just trying to save you the same frustration and grief. If anyone else wants to chime in, please do. I'm no expert, I just learned what works and what doesn't. Safety is #1

I've sold my trailer and am looking at the smaller Tear Drop size now. With accessories that I can pick & choose what I want installed to suit our needs. Below is a bare bones Hiker Trailer Off Road. 1 of many I'm considering. I might rent a traditional Tear Drop from TearDropsNW just south of Portland when things open up. Take one out for a weekend & see what works and what doesn't.

12314296_990362077687433_5025094907176456541_o.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #26
@Hannibal thank you very much; yes for the extra $500 or so from the RV Dealer (they have to order it in) for the frame mounted receiver we will do that for sure: and I will check out getting the transmission cooler - have it installed by the Toyo dealer preferably. Both make great sense.

We're getting the trailer on Weds; for one run over the weekend as-is; while they get the receiver on order and in. The rig's at their shop currently getting the 7 pin and trailer brake control install.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Question - if using the Curt or Draw-tite or similar frame mounted received hitches - do those typically have a higher tongue weight maximum than the standard 500 lbs for the FJ center frame OEM mounted 6 bolt receiver? Curt seems to say 500 lbs, Draw-tite 600 lbs.
 

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The FJ is rated for a Class III and if memory serves Class III max weight on the ball is 600 lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Question - @Hannibal , @mikey and team -

Is the Curt 13367 the best option for the FJ to replace the 6 bolt center frame receiver hitch? part and photo below. Hannibal I looked it up on etrailer. Will be ordering and having RV dealer install, if that is best option. They had showed me a Draw-tite (photo only) but it didnt look as good as this Curt. Thank you. will be paired with the Camco R3 ReCurve 600 WDS; photo below.

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
Item # 13367

20200527_172132.jpg

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
Item # 13367

download.png
 

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I took my FJ to a local fabrication shop when I still lived in WI and they customized my bumper hitch to handle the wd hitch I was using to tow our 16’ airstream. Before having this done you could visibly see the flex of the standard bumper hitch, not a risk I was willing to take. And I didn’t want an aftermarket hitch as it would hang lower and make for less egress. Extending the receiver tube and welding to a cross tube that bolted to the frame on each side made it as rigid as you can get and it easily handled the Blue Ox Sway Pro wd hitch. Photos of the setup in this post: Ultimate bumper hitch

IMHO a wd hitch is the only way to go, especially with the shorter wheelbase of the FJ (as compared to a p/u truck). I’ve had a couple of occasions where an emergency lane change came up and I’m certain the wd hitch kept us safe. Do NOT rely on air bag helper springs, they will only lift the rear of the vehicle and not redistribute the weight back to the front wheels where steering and braking are needed. The additional trani cooler is highly recommended as well, especially with the trailer size you’re considering.
If your trailer weights fall within the FJ’s limits and you go with a wd hitch, it’s also essential that once you get things hooked up to go to the CAT scales in order to set your wd hitch up properly. It’s an easy process, a little time consuming but worth every minute from a safety perspective.
We put many miles on our FJ with our small airstream, lots of great memories! Just be sure to do your research and do it safely for you, your FJ and your trailer.
 

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It sounds like a bad idea to jump through so many hoops to haul a heavy trailer. That said a frame mounted hitch and no more than 500 lbs of tongue weight, regardless of what the frame mounted specs say. A weight distribution hitch will distribute some of the weight to the front end and take some weight off the tongue, give your vehicle a level ride, and give the front end proper stability. I’ve used these hitches on other trucks and Land Cruisers that I’ve owned and they work great and add a level of safety, but I would not use them on my FJ, it’s just not a good hauler.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
It sounds like a bad idea to jump through so many hoops to haul a heavy trailer. That said a frame mounted hitch and no more than 500 lbs of tongue weight, regardless of what the frame mounted specs say. A weight distribution hitch will distribute some of the weight to the front end and take some weight off the tongue, give your vehicle a level ride, and give the front end proper stability. I’ve used these hitches on other trucks and Land Cruisers that I’ve owned and they work great and add a level of safety, but I would not use them on my FJ, it’s just not a good hauler.
Nick9000, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I took my FJ to a local fabrication shop when I still lived in WI and they customized my bumper hitch to handle the wd hitch I was using to tow our 16’ airstream. Before having this done you could visibly see the flex of the standard bumper hitch, not a risk I was willing to take. And I didn’t want an aftermarket hitch as it would hang lower and make for less egress. Extending the receiver tube and welding to a cross tube that bolted to the frame on each side made it as rigid as you can get and it easily handled the Blue Ox Sway Pro wd hitch. Photos of the setup in this post: Ultimate bumper hitch

IMHO a wd hitch is the only way to go, especially with the shorter wheelbase of the FJ (as compared to a p/u truck). I’ve had a couple of occasions where an emergency lane change came up and I’m certain the wd hitch kept us safe. Do NOT rely on air bag helper springs, they will only lift the rear of the vehicle and not redistribute the weight back to the front wheels where steering and braking are needed. The additional trani cooler is highly recommended as well, especially with the trailer size you’re considering.
If your trailer weights fall within the FJ’s limits and you go with a wd hitch, it’s also essential that once you get things hooked up to go to the CAT scales in order to set your wd hitch up properly. It’s an easy process, a little time consuming but worth every minute from a safety perspective.
We put many miles on our FJ with our small airstream, lots of great memories! Just be sure to do your research and do it safely for you, your FJ and your trailer.
Thank you, readjusting at the scales makes sense. Yes I did get a wdh
 

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I’ve read through most of the thread but in case I missed something I’m sorry for repeating it.

1. The fj’s factory hitch is what you have. It’s held on by 6 bolts, two on the bottom and 4 on the face. It’s held on to the frame member at the back of the fj. That frame member is crazy strong but the unfortunately the oem hitch isn’t. It was originally rated for 5k and 500 lb tongue weight (downward weight). I believe those numbers were dropped slightly in later years but that’s more because of what the fj’s suspension can handle. THIS HITCH IS NOT WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION COMPATIBLE. I bent my hitch, bolts and almost had a disaster and my wasn’t even cranked up very high. The bottom bolts will bend and then the hitch.

2. Buy a drawtite hitch from amazon or etrailer. It’s the best one. Easy install, it took me 20 minutes. It mounts to the frame in two different spots, and spreads out the weight. It still uses 6 bolts and is much much stronger. The drawtite hitch is rated at 6000k and 600lbs tongue weight when using a wdh. It won’t raise the fj’s legal limits, but it’s much stronger. With this hitch wd works very well.

3. If you’re plan on towing a travel trailer or similar seriously look into a Hensley arrow or arrow cub hitch. They are much more expensive but it has wd and will eliminate sway. Sway will be your real enemy. I got one and it completely changed how the fj tows. Much safer. I’ve since bought a new tundra to tow with but I still use a Hensley with it as well. If you have to use the fj to tow, a Hensley might save your life. The wheelbase is just to short.

Here are a few pics of my hitch when I found it loose and pointing slightly upward on my fj.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
I’ve read through most of the thread but in case I missed something I’m sorry for repeating it.

1. The fj’s factory hitch is what you have. It’s held on by 6 bolts, two on the bottom and 4 on the face. It’s held on to the frame member at the back of the fj. That frame member is crazy strong but the unfortunately the oem hitch isn’t. It was originally rated for 5k and 500 lb tongue weight (downward weight). I believe those numbers were dropped slightly in later years but that’s more because of what the fj’s suspension can handle. THIS HITCH IS NOT WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION COMPATIBLE. I bent my hitch, bolts and almost had a disaster and my wasn’t even cranked up very high. The bottom bolts will bend and then the hitch.

2. Buy a drawtite hitch from amazon or etrailer. It’s the best one. Easy install, it took me 20 minutes. It mounts to the frame in two different spots, and spreads out the weight. It still uses 6 bolts and is much much stronger. The drawtite hitch is rated at 6000k and 600lbs tongue weight when using a wdh. It won’t raise the fj’s legal limits, but it’s much stronger. With this hitch wd works very well.

3. If you’re plan on towing a travel trailer or similar seriously look into a Hensley arrow or arrow cub hitch. They are much more expensive but it has wd and will eliminate sway. Sway will be your real enemy. I got one and it completely changed how the fj tows. Much safer. I’ve since bought a new tundra to tow with but I still use a Hensley with it as well. If you have to use the fj to tow, a Hensley might save your life. The wheelbase is just to short.

Here are a few pics of my hitch when I found it loose and pointing slightly upward on my fj.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Thank you, those are three very good points.
I will be getting a Curt, think model 13357, frame mounted hitch this week, installed by les Schwab tire centers. Also likely air bags. Possibly bilstien 5100 shocks, priceyx not sure I need them yet.

Then an auxiliary trans cooler install by Ed's Transmission. Max at Ed's checked it out on Thursday, wants to measure it more and pull out grill, to put largest one in that will fit. Also have the camco eazlift R3 ReCurve WDH. Got the tekonsha Voyager brake controller and a furrion trailer backup camera.

Hope others see those photos and info, when having same question.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I’ve read through most of the thread but in case I missed something I’m sorry for repeating it.

1. The fj’s factory hitch is what you have. It’s held on by 6 bolts, two on the bottom and 4 on the face. It’s held on to the frame member at the back of the fj. That frame member is crazy strong but the unfortunately the oem hitch isn’t. It was originally rated for 5k and 500 lb tongue weight (downward weight). I believe those numbers were dropped slightly in later years but that’s more because of what the fj’s suspension can handle. THIS HITCH IS NOT WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION COMPATIBLE. I bent my hitch, bolts and almost had a disaster and my wasn’t even cranked up very high. The bottom bolts will bend and then the hitch.

2. Buy a drawtite hitch from amazon or etrailer. It’s the best one. Easy install, it took me 20 minutes. It mounts to the frame in two different spots, and spreads out the weight. It still uses 6 bolts and is much much stronger. The drawtite hitch is rated at 6000k and 600lbs tongue weight when using a wdh. It won’t raise the fj’s legal limits, but it’s much stronger. With this hitch wd works very well.

3. If you’re plan on towing a travel trailer or similar seriously look into a Hensley arrow or arrow cub hitch. They are much more expensive but it has wd and will eliminate sway. Sway will be your real enemy. I got one and it completely changed how the fj tows. Much safer. I’ve since bought a new tundra to tow with but I still use a Hensley with it as well. If you have to use the fj to tow, a Hensley might save your life. The wheelbase is just to short.

Here are a few pics of my hitch when I found it loose and pointing slightly upward on my fj.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
@dabeyta3

I'd looked at drawtite and curt photos, the curt had looked better to me, so I'm just going curt, since knowing the brand name more
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I took my FJ to a local fabrication shop when I still lived in WI and they customized my bumper hitch to handle the wd hitch I was using to tow our 16’ airstream. Before having this done you could visibly see the flex of the standard bumper hitch, not a risk I was willing to take. And I didn’t want an aftermarket hitch as it would hang lower and make for less egress. Extending the receiver tube and welding to a cross tube that bolted to the frame on each side made it as rigid as you can get and it easily handled the Blue Ox Sway Pro wd hitch. Photos of the setup in this post: Ultimate bumper hitch

IMHO a wd hitch is the only way to go, especially with the shorter wheelbase of the FJ (as compared to a p/u truck). I’ve had a couple of occasions where an emergency lane change came up and I’m certain the wd hitch kept us safe. Do NOT rely on air bag helper springs, they will only lift the rear of the vehicle and not redistribute the weight back to the front wheels where steering and braking are needed. The additional trani cooler is highly recommended as well, especially with the trailer size you’re considering.
If your trailer weights fall within the FJ’s limits and you go with a wd hitch, it’s also essential that once you get things hooked up to go to the CAT scales in order to set your wd hitch up properly. It’s an easy process, a little time consuming but worth every minute from a safety perspective.
We put many miles on our FJ with our small airstream, lots of great memories! Just be sure to do your research and do it safely for you, your FJ and your trailer.
Wow, you towed an airstream? Those are nice coaches!
 

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Sway will be your real enemy.
^^^^ dabeyta3's entire post is excellent, but this 1000x.
Weight is predicable and controllable, sway is unpredictable and has to dealt with in the moment.
The FJ is a great vehicle; be aware of its limitations as you are of its strengths so there is much happy camping 🙂
 
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