[Kotaix]

Hi all,

My driver side rear brake caliper is stuck and dragging so I'm having to replace it.

Question is: how much more do I need to change while I'm doing this?

I assume that I should change the brake rotors and pads on both sides at the same time so that there is even wear and even braking pressure going forward?

 

[FJtest]

A stuck piston is a caliper is frequently because of corrosion caused by moisture absorbed in the brake fluid, so your other calipers may also have corrosion damage but just have not seized up yet.

Best approach would be to pull, inspect and rebuild all four calipers (new piston seals).

If you are going to focus on the rear axle first, then yes, new OEM pads at both sides and either turned rotors, if they are thick enough, or new OEM rotors.

That's the reason for complete brake system fluid flush every 4-5 years.

 

[norm356]

x2

Also, I found the "cheap" aftermarket calipers (the ones that come painted, instead of plated like the OEM ones) don't last nearly as long as the originals. By far the most cost effective solution with calipers is to rebuild them with the OEM seal kit (easy to do with simple hand tools, some compressed air and a block of wood to push the pistons out, and some Toyota Pink lithium glycol grease to lube everything during assembly). If the bleed screws look rounded or corroded, not a bad idea to replace them too, or use some anti-seize on their threads when re-assy.

Put some cellophane under the master cylinder cap so there is minimal leakage during the process and bleeding after is made quicker.

Norm