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Discussion Starter #301
Beginning to gather materials for my own attempt at this. I'm fairly good with mechanical stuff but when measuring is involved...that's when things can go wrong. :)

Great plans, can't wait to get started on mine!
Good luck and if you need help, we're all here.
 

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Finally got the rear storage drawers completed. 2 weekends in a row and got everything buttoned up. I put a little flare on the drawers, can you guys tell what stands out :rofl: Dirt, finger prints and grease marks are easy to clean off as I put a couple coats of clear..





That sub on the driver's side.... where did you get that enclosure? It looks better than OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #304 (Edited)
What hardware did you use for the slide release on the fridge? It looks like an orange paracord bracelet tied to something spring loaded.
It's a spring plunger available on Amazon. You'll need to get nuts and washers to complete it.
http://amzn.to/2padXk7

 

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You know, it's funny where inspiration comes from. I wanted my drawer system to to span from wall to wall, but when I made a template and cut it out of wood, I couldn't get it in the truck. Frustrated, I went in to watch TV and have a beer. On comes a commercial- a feminine product- a pantyliner with....wings. Hmmm.... wings... I need wings... So I made wings. A piano hinge and some support blocks I got the mission accomplished. I dub thee- "The Pantyliner Mod."

Thanks, Dennis, for the design basis. My main additions were dovetail joints, taller box, and the Pantyliner Mod and a single-wall divider to add a tiny bit more space.
 

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Dennx, thanks for the great detailed plans, I followed yours exactly and I love my new box!

 

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Not to revive an old thread, but it looks like I might have 31 pages of comments to go through.
I like the original plans, but I'm getting a SnowMaster fridge soon. (Still deciding the size)
Might have to do the slide out drawer on one side.
Since I'm going to Jambo this year, that's what I'm going to scout out... other peoples set ups. :)
 

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Ha I just made something that looks just like this . I have maybe 3 hours into it . I did see on YouTube a idea that I think I may do . Pretty much the same setup but it had a slide out tray above the drawers . I am also having mine Line-x
 

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So I followed this back when it was written, before I even had an account here, I have a question...

With the rubber matting, how did you attach it? Adhesive spray? Or nothing at all? Also did you notice any edges "rolling" up?
 

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I had my box Line -X . and just used the Rubber mat that was down before . I took the D rings out and bolted the box down in those locations then added the d rings to the top of my box . They hold the rubber mat in place I am loading it up to leave for a week but can take a pic .
 

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Discussion Starter #312
So I followed this back when it was written, before I even had an account here, I have a question...

With the rubber matting, how did you attach it? Adhesive spray? Or nothing at all? Also did you notice any edges "rolling" up?
I didn't use any adhesive and the edges never curled.
 

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Built my first box based on the plans Dennx supplied at the beginning of this thread. That was way back at post #179 . That box is now for sale.
I’m now building version 2.0, which has completely done away with the rear seats. The rear box is still based on the same design, except it’s a tad bit taller to bring the height up equal to the top of the interior panels. The top is also slightly wider than the old box to fill the gaps better between the box and interior panels. The drawers have all been cut and are ready for glue up, but I haven’t gotten that done yet. Hopefully this weekend. Instead of two drawers, this box will have three 2-1/2” drawers on the drivers side and two 4” drawers on the passenger side. I plan to have neoprene foam laser cut to fit all my tools and recovery equipment, that will fit four of the five drawers. The fifth drawer I’ll just line with rubber to throw loose items in. The rear box and drawers are made entirely of 1/2” Baltic Birch, which is lighter than 3/4” plywood and comparable in strength. Since the drawers are smaller, the battalion latches wouldn’t work. After much research, I found some adjustable tension latches that mount at the rear of the drawers and latch into its counterpart that mount to the inside rear of the cabinet. These can be adjusted to provide a nice tight snap that will keep the drawers in place securely, even when wheeling. These latches are used in the marine industry to secure drawers and cabinet doors on ships, and are made of stainless. The drawer fronts will get stainless marine drawer pull handles.
The front section of the setup takes the place of the rear seats. It provides two main storage sections for spare parts, camp gear, etc.. It incorporates a built in 10” subwoofer box in the center front that takes the place of my previous rear corner hogging sub box (More foot room! Yay!). The front section is all contoured to the floor and sides of the vehicle to keep everything inside secured and most importantly, to provide strength. This section doubles as a sleep deck. I opted for gull-wing hatch doors to make it more user friendly, while still being able to access most everything from either side of the vehicle. The hatches are supported with hydraulic pistons like the fj hood. And when opened, LED light strips inside will be triggered by magnetic switches and light everything up inside. The hatch doors are latched down tight with marine hatch latches that lock if desired. Mounted to the front of this forward section, behind each seat, are folding extensions that raise and latch into place when the seats are slid and tilted forward. There’s a drop-in section that fills the gap between, just above the rear of the center console. This provides maximum sleeping room. Even my 6’1” frame should rest comfortably back there. When not in use, the extensions fold down and secure with a thumbscrew to prevent any rattling. The forward section is built out of 3/4 Birch to provide extra strength. I figured the extra strength will be needed to keep the heavy spare cv axle and other gear secure. Not to mention, keeping my fat butt from falling through in the middle of the night. Lol!
Once the drawers are done, the entire thing will come back out to be edge banded with Birch veneer, get sanded, stained with an ebony stain and finished off with polyurethane. Then, once back in the vehicle, it’ll get topped off with a medium density 3/16” neoprene rubber, to help keep things thrown on top, from sliding around.

So, much thanks goes out to Dennx for the initial inspiration!

I’ll add more pics when completed.



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Update: Drawers got done this past weekend along with all final adjustments. Will start pulling everything out next weekend and disassembling. Then start edge banding everything, sanding and then applying stain and poly.



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Update: Drawers got done this past weekend along with all final adjustments. Will start pulling everything out next weekend and disassembling. Then start edge banding everything, sanding and then applying stain and poly.



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shannon67 - What's that overhead console looking thing with the two displays? It's toward the front between driver and passenger.
 

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shannon67 - What's that overhead console looking thing with the two displays? It's toward the front between driver and passenger.


It’s just the Outback overhead console. Those aren’t displays, they’re L.E.D. lights


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Gotta say thanks to everyone who's posted their rear drawer setups so far! Definitely have inspired some great ideas for drawer setups and can't wait to get started on some. Debating if I should build the drawers entirely out of wood, or was also thinking of doing something similar to what Goose Gear offers with the 80/20 extrusions. Would like to keep them kind of modular as I'd like to have a fridge setup in the rear down the road but would like to have the fridge as low as possible so it's still fairly easily accessible. So when the fridge goes in I can stack the drawers and then build another side setup for the fridge. Either way thanks again for all the input everyone!
 

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I did a poor job documenting,
But here are a few photos of my drawer system in the back of my FJ Cruiser.

Unfortunately I couldn't afford any of the high end systems like Goose Gear or Truck Vault so I decided to do my own project. This was inspired by an existing design made by DRIFTA Drawers out of Australia.

It is two very spacious drawers on 28" full extension sliders (100lb capacity each)
Also on top are two flush mounted pull outs.

Pull out on the left is to accommodate my cooking area , I will be using a Blackstone Table Top Grill - 17 Inch Portable Gas Griddle. It is supported also on 28" .. 100lb sliders.

Pull out on the right will serve as my fridge storage area. It is also on a 28" slider but will accommodate 200lbs.

I have not added the tie down anchors on top of these slideouts but I will be doing so to ensure the fridge and cooking surfaces dont move around.

I will be painting all interior areas of the drawers with black paint and all exterior with black truck/bedliner spray.

I most likely will add a small LED light inside of the drawers. Rear of the box will be anchored to the frame of the vehicle with bolts.

I am not a professional but I hope this serves me well.

I am open to any suggestions that might make this project even better.

I will be adding more photos later as I near completion.


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