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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a small small leak in the rear diff seal. The leak is not coming from the pinion seal, it is coming from 3rd member seal and Toyota wants over $550 to replace a $10 part so I figured I would give it a go. I have talked to one person that told me that its a pretty easy job but I do have to pull my axels out a few inches, remove the rear drive shaft from that end, remove the e-locker then pull the rear end, clean it up and reseal it. Anyone have any pics or helpful hints?
:cheers:
 

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Have a friend on hand to help.
-put the fj on stands
-pull both axles out a few inches
-remove 3rd (we didn't take my elocker off)
-we used 'great stuff' and made a gasket
-reinstall
 

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Probably not the case here, but it's worth checking out. I had an old 4runner that had a leak around the gasket. Turned out some of the nuts that secure the third member to the housing had loosened up. I got lucky, just torqued everything down and it sealed up for me. It's worth looking at.:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info. Do I need to unplug the e-locker to remove the 3rd member? Im guessing I need to completely remove the 3rd member to clean everything up then do the reinstall?

I did check the bolts and....no such luck.
 

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Yeah you'll have to un plug the harness to the elocker, you'll have to slide your axle tubes out. Not all the way just about 3 inches or so. Then un bolt the third member and pull it out. (drain the fluid first :lol:) :cheers:
 

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Here's one pic of the axles pulled out

You need to be careful not to destroy the axle seal, but they should just rest in the housing without touching the seal. to me safe I propped mine on jack stands
Drain Diff
Pull wheels/tires
Disconnect rear brake lines
I taped my brake lines shut so they wouldn't leak all over the garage floor
unbolt four axle bolts on each side
unplug e-locker
4 bolts on rear drive shaft and use a coat hanger wire to hold it out of the way of diff removal
I think there are 12 or 14, 10 mm head bolts around the dif
You will need a wrench for some of them
Once you have all the bolts out, you will have to release e-locker, then the 3rd member from the housing , pressure up and down , sideways Some careful prying can help because the factory seal was probably put on with gasket sealer.
pull third member and clean the gasket surface really good.
you will have to scrape it
Be patient and make sure the surface is free of gasket and clean. Don't gouge the surface.
Clean out the housing out, with rags and I use a brake cleaner, carb cleaner to get the residue out
You really want this to be clean and dry on the inside. It just makes sure nothing is left like metal particles and gunk from the gasket
USE A FACTORY GASKET I should repeat that.
Since you have issues now, use gasket sealer as directed
probably on the housing surface then the gasket surface
Install nuts bolts and snug them evenly using a opposite pattern
I don't recall the torque spec
In reassembly , don't change the position of the e-locker it should stay where it is anyway
Mine was in the lock position and I had to pull the e-locker and slide the engage bar over to one side, but that was with a new install so it shouldn't affect yours

Take your time and tighten them evenly
Put it back together in reverse order. I would wait till the next day to put gear oil in, but that's up to you
You will need torque specs on the drive shaft bolts and axle bolts
then you will need to re install the brake lines and bleed them
 

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Probably not the case here, but it's worth checking out. I had an old 4runner that had a leak around the gasket. Turned out some of the nuts that secure the third member to the housing had loosened up. I got lucky, just torqued everything down and it sealed up for me. It's worth looking at.:cheers:
X2... my friends FJ was leaking there too and it turned out to be loose nuts holding the 3rd member in.

On my FJ the front diff started leaking... guess what, bolts were loose, only about 4 of them but some so loose that i could turn by hand! Tightened an all is well... be worth checking before you tear it all apart.

EDIT: Ooops just read you already checked them...
 

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Hey, a salad, couple of beers and a little cash and Toyota_Tech would probably do it for ya!:rofl::rofl::rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ill cook him a whole brisket and a slab of ribs with a bunch of cold beers for whoever does it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's one pic of the axles pulled out

You need to be careful not to destroy the axle seal, but they should just rest in the housing without touching the seal. to me safe I propped mine on jack stands
Drain Diff
Pull wheels/tires
Disconnect rear brake lines
I taped my brake lines shut so they wouldn't leak all over the garage floor
unbolt four axle bolts on each side
unplug e-locker
4 bolts on rear drive shaft and use a coat hanger wire to hold it out of the way of diff removal
I think there are 12 or 14, 10 mm head bolts around the dif
You will need a wrench for some of them
Once you have all the bolts out, you will have to release e-locker, then the 3rd member from the housing , pressure up and down , sideways Some careful prying can help because the factory seal was probably put on with gasket sealer.
pull third member and clean the gasket surface really good.
you will have to scrape it
Be patient and make sure the surface is free of gasket and clean. Don't gouge the surface.
Clean out the housing out, with rags and I use a brake cleaner, carb cleaner to get the residue out
You really want this to be clean and dry on the inside. It just makes sure nothing is left like metal particles and gunk from the gasket
USE A FACTORY GASKET I should repeat that.
Since you have issues now, use gasket sealer as directed
probably on the housing surface then the gasket surface
Install nuts bolts and snug them evenly using a opposite pattern
I don't recall the torque spec
In reassembly , don't change the position of the e-locker it should stay where it is anyway
Mine was in the lock position and I had to pull the e-locker and slide the engage bar over to one side, but that was with a new install so it shouldn't affect yours

Take your time and tighten them evenly
Put it back together in reverse order. I would wait till the next day to put gear oil in, but that's up to you
You will need torque specs on the drive shaft bolts and axle bolts
then you will need to re install the brake lines and bleed them
Thanks for the info Wikid. When you say release the e-locker what exactly do you mean. I understood that I could unplug the electronic leads and pull the whole unit out, 3rd member & e-locker all in one?

I was also under the assumption that I could loosen the brake lines and pull the axels out enough without having to remove them?

:cheers:
 

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I would pull the e-locker then the 3rd , It will easier since the only thing holding the e-locker in, are the shafts that hold the 3rd member. Then when you re assemble, put the 3rd in , then the e-locker with the tightening sequence .
It should just slip right into place
thanks
Don
 

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I understood that I could unplug the electronic leads and pull the whole unit out, 3rd member & e-locker all in one?

I was also under the assumption that I could loosen the brake lines and pull the axels out enough without having to remove them?
When I did my ecgs I left the e-locker on the 3rd when I pulled it. However, when re-installing, do as Wikid said and install the 3rd with the e-locker off, I had trouble trying to install the 3rd with the e-locker already connected, then took it off then the 2nd attemp was alot easier. As for the brake lines, YES, you can just loosen then and pull the axles out. Just make sure the brake calipers are secure and dont fall down and possibly break the brake lines.
 

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I guess its ok to pull the caliper and hang it so you don't have to remove the brake line, but I took it as an opportunity to drain the master cylinder and just put fresh stuff back in .
thanks
Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for all the info, not sure when I will be doing the repair but will post up how it goes.
 
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