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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long time reader, first post - since I finally have something useful to share (I think).
The forums have been very helpful to me when it comes to looking for mod ideas and build instructions. It's been a good foundation to allow us to build off each other's designs too. I've searched all over the forums and message boards, and every door latch mod had some drilling into the metal body or plastic trim. Being that I love my new-to-me FJ so much I wanted to keep it from any chops as long as possible. Follow my FJ on Instagram @Cement.FJ :)

Edit: here's the video link
https://m.facebook.com/groups/706757829400698?view=permalink&id=3091169617626162

This mod may not work for some if their sleep platform/storage is too high. Took some time to get creative, mainly to walk around the hardware store to source potential materials. Here is my rendition. Hope you enjoy!

We will be using the already present square cut out from the rear door trim. Should take you about 15-30mins to do now that we know that needs to be done.
Items you will need, make sure you are getting stainless steel or zinc-plated so things don't rust.
(1) 1/4" U-Bolt Wire Cable Clamp, this will fit around the original FJ rod perfectly
(1) 1/4"x6" Eye Bolt
(2) 1/4" Hex nuts (I would have preferred Nylon threaded, but my store didn't have any)
(1) 4" Poly Foam Brush (semi-optional), anything that fits into the circumference of the eye bolt hole really. I made the cut for the wooden handle bc wood is light vs a heavy steel bolt
(1) 5/8" E-clip (optional)
(1) Electrical tape (optional)
(1) 1/4 Hitch pin (very optional)
All should cost you under $5

STEPS:
1) I popped off the plastic tab that covers the square hole. Covered it with painters tape and stuck a sharpie in to trace the square
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2) Cut a slit down the middle so you know where to place the handle-rod through
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3) I found it easier to use a sharp blade to cut though the black sticky goo. Remember to be careful since we will want to cover it back up. It will actually go back and stick to each other very well when you return the plastic back into place
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4) Make the L-shape push handle first. I sawed off the brush handle at the foam edge. Sanded the tip down so that the brush handle can be inserted (hammered) tightly into the eye bolt. I painted the handle black, then added an E-clip on the end to keep it from getting loose and pulling forward from the back side.
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5) The real install, pictures say it all: U-bolt around the door latch metal pole first, then space out your hex bolts to adjust to height that the L-handle would fit through the plastic slit. Tighten all the bolts. They should all fit together with no movements. My electrical tape is just there to keep things from potentially loosening.
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6) Carefully place the sticky plastic back into place and return your rear cover over.
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interesting!

Please help me to understand details:
What keeps the little black rod in the eye bolt, just friction?
Do you push the little black rod down or pull it up to release the door, or rock it like a switch?
When you operate it, does the little black rod rock in the eyebolt hole, do you think it will it come loose over time?

In your second to last photo there is a black rectangle visible where the little black rod contacts the door outer panel, what is it?


thanks so much for posting, your approach looks very resourceful.
 

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Really nice write up, and I like how the new lever is protected from inadvertent activation (behind the little square access door).
Will be adding this to my list of mods to do.

One minor tweak might be to use blue loctite instead of the electrical tape (to retain location of the nuts on the screw eye).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Really nice write up, and I like how the new lever is protected from inadvertent activation (behind the little square access door).
Will be adding this to my list of mods to do.

One minor tweak might be to use blue loctite instead of the electrical tape (to retain location of the nuts on the screw eye).
Definitely would have used some if I had any. Nylon threaded nuts tend to stay in place more too. They didn't have any of those at the corner hardware store by me either.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
interesting!

Please help me to understand details:
What keeps the little black rod in the eye bolt, just friction?
Do you push the little black rod down or pull it up to release the door, or rock it like a switch?
When you operate it, does the little black rod rock in the eyebolt hole, do you think it will it come loose over time?

In your second to last photo there is a black rectangle visible where the little black rod contacts the door outer panel, what is it?


thanks so much for posting, your approach looks very resourceful.
Edit: here's the video link
https://m.facebook.com/groups/706757829400698?view=permalink&id=3091169617626162

1. The little black rod is somewhat held in by friction, I had to hammer it in after sanding down the end tip a bit to get a little wedge fit going. It's pretty tight and I don't see it going anywhere, definitely not through the impassable large end. The sanded down end I added an E-clip to lock it in, that took a bit of force too so I don't see it slipping either. There are always other creative ways around it. I can see someone using a PVC tubing and locking it in with pins if they wanted to. That thought had crossed my mind. The wood handle was best for me given what the store had.

2. Push the black rod down to release. I posted a video of that to the same FB group page also. No rocking, solid.
There's also a hitch pin in that photo, totally optional. I used it since I had paid for it thinking I would need it. It's just there as a secondary support preventing the Eye-bolt from potentially going anywhere if it ever does.

3. Black rectangle in the outer back is just electrical tape. That's just there incase there is any rubbing from the end of the black rod one day. I just get detailed with my work since I don't want to go back in there. I completed the key-fob rear window remote release install while I had the plastic removed too. There's a great post on here about it and I followed it to the T with ease. They even linked where to buy the materials.
 

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thanks for clarifying those things for me!

Very clever solution for opening from the inside, I like it.
 
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