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My strut has been defaulting to the locked position for a few months now. Having stopped at the local dealership today to find out a replacement would cost me, (the better part of $160) I decided to cruise the forum.

Thank you NestahEdition

In all it was a 15 minute job.

The trickiest part was removing the yellow mechanism from the strut. I ended up holding it up in bench vice with the jaws tight enough to not allow the yellow piece to pass but loose enough to not make contact with the strut itself. Ferm taps on the end of the strut with a nylon hammer breaks the bond. I used two wraps of aluminum duct insulation tape that I had on hand. I noticed that the glue marks mad it easy to line up the parts for reassembly. and it seemed tight enough for me to forgo re-gluing. BOOM! Working like a charm.........at least for now and no more of the "one handed foot trick".
 

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Bump for a quick fix to the worn lock ring

You can see the two worn ridges in the pic posted originally in this thread:



I removed the strut and then removed the yellow ring using a cresent wrench adjusted to the outside diameter of the strut tube and a rubber mallet.
2 or 3 quick blows to the cresent wrench and the ring comes right off.

I then used my soldering iron that is equipped with a plastic cutting tip and ran it on either side of the worn ridge until i forced some of the melted plastic back up into the original dome shape of the ridge. Be aware it only takes a couple quick swipes to melt the ridge into a workable state. You could likely cut into the actual wall of the ring or melt the tabs right off if you are too aggressive. If you haven't worked with melting plastic before, find a similar density plastic piece to practice on before you dive in. The flat blade of my iron was ideal, but a small regular iron tip would likely work.

Once you get then ridge reformed, simply run the ring under cold water and re-assemble using the wrench and mallet. You can line it back up using the factory dried glue edges as a guide. It fits back tight and no addition glue was needed.

Works just like new!
 

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This issue is starting to annoy me ( the wife actually ;) ) so I have to do something about it. Was thinking of 3D printing it in ABS. If I take the time to model it in 3D and print it, would anyone be interested in getting one ? I figure something like 20$ would cover shipping costs and time/material.
 

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This issue is starting to annoy me ( the wife actually ;) ) so I have to do something about it. Was thinking of 3D printing it in ABS. If I take the time to model it in 3D and print it, would anyone be interested in getting one ? I figure something like 20$ would cover shipping costs and time/material.
I'd be interested. I'm having the issue. Just been living with it, but would love a real fix. The tape trick would be OK, but I'd rather repair the yellow lock ring.
 

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Thanks for the idea. Tried popping off the yellow lock ring. It came off fine after a few taps using the vice and rubber mallet. Put the aluminum AC tape on, about 4 wraps. Gently popped the ring back on using the crescent wrench and rubber mallet. At it cracked. A 5 minute project is now a 2 hour project. Probably should have cleaned the old glue off the metal cylinder with a knife.
. First I tried superglue. I know better, because superglue never works on the part, it just sticks your fingers together. And guess what. It didn't work. Then I used JB Weld Epoxy. Let it cure overnight, though I probably didn't have to. Tapped it together this morning and it didn't break. I didn't glue it back on. I may have to glue it. Let's see how long it lasts. (picture didn't work. Try clicking on this link. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10217098501887782&set=a.1350295770544&type=3&theater
 
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