[Claymore]

Has anyone had this problem or know someone who has?

It was 5 deg outside and a gust of wind caught the door swinging it out and crack! the door weld broke and now the read door wont close unless I lift the spare. Before I try to spot weld it (this wont be pretty) I wanted to reach out to the forum for tips.

Thanks in advance for any information!!!

 

[pop]

Thats not a real weld. Its a seam sealer with a bead roller. Take it to a real body shop and let them fix it . It is most likely less than your deductible. If not let them fix it. They replace door skins all the time.

 

[Winterpeg]

Ouch!

Keep us posted!

 

[MotioncontrolMike]

This happened to someone else within the last year, and were looking for solutions here, but I dont know how it played out in the end.

BTW, did you have the rear door lower 'piston' attached and this still happened with a gust of wind???? I suspect it was detached...

...then again...dont incriminate yourself...insurance co's search the web too.

Mike

 

[WASP]

First thing I would do is remove the spare tire to reduce further damage because of the weight.

Second, after having the door fixed, buy an Expedition One rear bumper with a swinging tire carrier.

 

[WaJohnZ]

As said that is not a weld in the normal sense, it's bonded using special bonding adhesive. Only a commercial body shop will have the system to repair that.

 

[NC FJ Driver]

So did the OP get any resolution/repair on this? I had the same issue occur, although without the gust of wind.

 

[NC FJ Driver]

Has anyone had this problem or know someone who has?

It was 5 deg outside and a gust of wind caught the door swinging it out and crack! the door weld broke and now the read door wont close unless I lift the spare. Before I try to spot weld it (this wont be pretty) I wanted to reach out to the forum for tips.

Thanks in advance for any information!!!

Did you ever get this looked at/repaired...just curious?

 

[FJtest]

It's not the door skin that's deformed, it's the inner door structure where the hinge is attached.

Look at the photo, look where the gap is, and visualize how the inner door would need to deform to pull away from the bead.

I think the door skin would need to be removed, the inner structure bent back into it's original configuration, and then a new door skin installed.

Your most economical, problem-free solution might just be to find a used door.

 

[tgormtx]

i had the same thing happen to me. Warped the door so bad, we had to replace it. $2,000+ insurance claim.

 

[Senor Buckwheat]

Rear door broke

See pictures as reference. Went to close it and heard metal bang against metal. Noticed a tear. Had to pull it up and jam it in to close. Not really any play in it. All the attachment points look good. Nothing on the back except a spare tire.

Have an extended warranty so hopefully Toyota will fix. Otherwise might just need a good welding at point of tear.

 

[L68SWEET]

Re: Rear door broke

Sorry to see this happen again. Thanks for posting the pictures. I hope Toyota stands behind this. I think this is the 3rd post I have seen on this issue in recent months.

Unfortunately, that seam is not welded but it is bonded with some sort of seam sealer if I remember correctly.

I believe that the other people posting with this issue required new rear doors, as this was not a repairable part due to bending of the door panels.

 

[chriskrossapplesauce]

Re: Rear door broke

First time I've heard of this issue. Let us know what they decide on doing.

 

[Senor Buckwheat]

Re: Rear door broke

Removed due to thread consolidation.

 

[Senor Buckwheat]

Removed due to thread consolidation.

 

[Moocher]

Re: Rear door broke

This is crazy that it is happen with a stock spare! What year is yours?

 

[CowboyCEO]

Re: Rear door broke

Dang! I haven't seen that before either. I hope the dealer has a solution for you.

 

[L68SWEET]

Re: Rear door broke

Did an earlier search and did not find anything. Did one on different terms and found below link. Going to add mine to that one.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/misc-technical-discussion/418410-rear-door-weld-broken.html

There is at least one more post about this within the last 2 to 3 months that I recall. Everyone seems to use different terms, which is why it is hard to find the posts about the problem.

 

[L68SWEET]

Re: Rear door broke

Here is another post about this issue from earlier this month.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/general-discussion/504561-i-need-help-rear-door-splitting.html

 

[FJtest]

Was your "door-safety-strut" attached when this happened?

In your photo, notice that the inner door structure has been pulled away from the outer door skin, and essentially "pushed in" towards the center of the door.

This isn't a "tear" in the metal. The outer door skin is folded over and crimped to the inner door structure all around the perimeter, and a bead sealant is placed in the joint before final crimping.

Again looking at the photo, the area where the inner door structure has been separated from the door skin is only immediately around the lower hinge.

I think it's most likely that this was caused by a door that was opened beyond its normal range of travel, causing the lower hinge to be pressed "into" the door. The door strut is the only thing that prevents the door from being opened too far. It the door gets opened without the strut attached, and goes beyond its normal range of travel, there will likely be enough force to deform the inner structure, and pull it out of the folded-over crimp at the edge of the door skin.

There's really no easy way to "fix" this. Because the lower hinge attachment point at the door is now in the wrong location, the door won't close and latch properly. A really good body shop could probably remove the doorskin, straighten the inner door structure around the hinge, and install a new skin, but that might cost just as much as buying a complete new door.

Never remove the door-stop strut! If it gets damaged, replace it immediately.