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2014 Fj Cruiser Ultimate Edition - Heritage Blue
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been looking through the forum for a recent article on this but I haven’t found anything for my year or one that’s up to date. I have a 2014 TTUE and if doesnt have the rear speaker option so I ordered the oem JBL rear speakers. Plugged them in and they have no power. I know the wires are near the kick panel but I have no idea which ones. Can anyone provide me some information or a post on how to wire them so I can hopefully do it myself or at the very least be able to tell the audio specialist what I need lol. Preferably do it myself though. Thanks in advance!
 

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I have a 2013 FJ where I have installed the Toyota non-jbl rear pillar speakers. It would be the same process in yours with the JBL OEM speakers. The wires from the rear speaker locations goes to a big connector in the left hand kick panel. I installed mine some years ago when I put in the OEM Audio Plus system. If you watch the installation video at:


Around the 5 minute 40 second mark, he shows you where the rear speakers wires are in the kick panel and how to insert the wires with contacts on the opposite side of the connector to bring to the head unit. I remember it not being very hard to do but care is needed when you open the retainer that you don't let other pins out of the shell. Make certain to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before any of this of course.

Just for reference, the parts needed for the non-JBL install in a vehicle with no rear speakers were:
Speakers: 86160-35280 and 86160-35290
Brackets: 86161-35110 and 86161-35120
Bolts: 91631-J0612 (four), 90105-06260 (four)
Grills: 86269-35020-B0 and 86279-35020-B0
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a 2013 FJ where I have installed the Toyota non-jbl rear pillar speakers. It would be the same process in yours with the JBL OEM speakers. The wires from the rear speaker locations goes to a big connector in the left hand kick panel. I installed mine some years ago when I put in the OEM Audio Plus system. If you watch the installation video at:


Around the 5 minute 40 second mark, he shows you where the rear speakers wires are in the kick panel and how to insert the wires with contacts on the opposite side of the connector to bring to the head unit. I remember it not being very hard to do but care is needed when you open the retainer that you don't let other pins out of the shell. Make certain to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before any of this of course.

Just for reference, the parts needed for the non-JBL install in a vehicle with no rear speakers were:
Speakers: 86160-35280 and 86160-35290
Brackets: 86161-35110 and 86161-35120
Bolts: 91631-J0612 (four), 90105-06260 (four)
Grills: 86269-35020-B0 and 86279-35020-B0
Do you think it’ll work with an aftermarket head unit from Seicane?
 

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Do you think it’ll work with an aftermarket head unit from Seicane?
I don't know specifically. I've never wanted an aftermarket head unit.

You can buy repair wires from Toyota with the connector contacts already crimped on to insert into the back of the connector to run to your head unit or amplifier output. The precrimped wires are a bit expensive, but you would only need four of them and it would give you a tidy OEM quality install.

The tricky part is identifying the part numbers for the needed wires, but if you study the electrical wiring diagrams, you can determine the connector identification. From there, there is an electrical and wiring catalogue downloadable from the European Toyota site where you can identify the actual part numbers of the repair wires. It isn't easy for the parts counter people to look up either, so it is helpful if you know what you need going in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay thank you. I think I might try just hocking it up to the other wires together like you said and if it doesn’t work I’ll take it to the shop and have them do it. I already cut my finger getting the kick panel off and I see it’ll be a literally pain in the ass to mount them too so I’ll see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a 2013 FJ where I have installed the Toyota non-jbl rear pillar speakers. It would be the same process in yours with the JBL OEM speakers. The wires from the rear speaker locations goes to a big connector in the left hand kick panel. I installed mine some years ago when I put in the OEM Audio Plus system. If you watch the installation video at:


Around the 5 minute 40 second mark, he shows you where the rear speakers wires are in the kick panel and how to insert the wires with contacts on the opposite side of the connector to bring to the head unit. I remember it not being very hard to do but care is needed when you open the retainer that you don't let other pins out of the shell. Make certain to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before any of this of course.

Just for reference, the parts needed for the non-JBL install in a vehicle with no rear speakers were:
Speakers: 86160-35280 and 86160-35290
Brackets: 86161-35110 and 86161-35120
Bolts: 91631-J0612 (four), 90105-06260 (four)
Grills: 86269-35020-B0 and 86279-35020-B0
I’m still a little bit confused... if I got the oem JBL speakers and they have all the wiring on them and there’s a place to plug them into on the rear pillars. Which wires go to the rear pillars. If the wires are already there in the kick panel, which ones are they and how do I connect them to the rest of the audio and make them hot. I’m probably being an idiot but watching that video helped only a little. I still have no idea which wires I need to make hot. And even how to do it. I understand you need to insert wires into where the rear speaker wires go, but which wires are the rear speaker wires? I know the wires exist because there is a plug in the rear pillars but where do those wires go? When I find them do I just plug them into that module?
 

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The wires go to the connector in the kick panel, but the mate to the connector has no wires in those positions so the connection doesn't get any further than that. To make them live, you add wires with crimped on contacts into the mating connector and then bring that bundle of four wires to the head unit rear speaker outputs. I've attached the installation PDF for the OEM Audio Plus system. Starting on page 9, are detailed instructions showing exactly what pins and colours are involved.

Just a note for anyone else reading the PDF in the future. This is for the original system for automatic transmission models. The clutch pedal was in the way of the amplifier module so they moved the amplifier to where the rear power inverter was located for 6MT FJs. Later systems put the amplifier in the back of the subwoofer so it was no longer an issue which transmission you had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The wires go to the connector in the kick panel, but the mate to the connector has no wires in those positions so the connection doesn't get any further than that. To make them live, you add wires with crimped on contacts to the mating connector and then bring that bundle of four wires to the head unit rear speaker outputs. I've attached the installation PDF for the OEM Audio Plus system. Starting on page 9, are detailed instructions showing exactly what pins and colours are involved.

Just a note for anyone else reading the PDF in the future. This is for the original system for automatic transmission models. The clutch pedal was in the way of the amplifier module so they moved the amplifier to where the rear power inverter was located for 6MT FJs. Later systems put the amplifier in the back of the subwoofer so it was no longer an issue which transmission you had.
So from understanding this right I follow the video you linked above. And crimp four wires then lead them to the plug in the back of the head unit for the stereo.? Do you recommend getting those same for color wires or Will getting a pool of red wire be fine. Also what gauge wire would work best? Sorry for all the questions I just really don’t wanna have to take it into the shop and you seem to know what you’re talking about.
 

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Apparently I forgot the PDF file. It is there now.

If you make the wires all the same colour, then you'll need to mark them to be able to identify them. The crimp contacts are specific to the connector. If you use Toyota repair wires to do the install, then the wires will all be a single colour.

Otherwise you could splice into the wires between the rear speakers and the kick panel and take it from there.

Do use quality automotive wire for everything and do proper wire protection. Do not use vinyl speaker wire like you might in your living room. If you don't feel confident in doing it, then use a professional shop that you know to be careful.
 

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The ceiling speakers pretty much sound like crap is why. Also, the stock rear speakers are/were 8 ohms, the exciters are 4. The system runs its speakers in parallel. If you add 4 ohm speakers to the rear and leave the exciters connected you can overload the HU. Up to you, many have rolled the dice without issue. Speaker gauge wire, no need to go crazy. You pretty much only need to change out to thicker gauge if running a completely new system and lots of power. Oh, and lots of audio enthusiast will tell you to not bother with the rear speakers. But that's up to you and what your ears like to hear and where, not others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The ceiling speakers pretty much sound like crap is why. Also, the stock rear speakers are/were 8 ohms, the exciters are 4. The system runs its speakers in parallel. If you add 4 ohm speakers to the rear and leave the exciters connected you can overload the HU. Up to you, many have rolled the dice without issue. Speaker gauge wire, no need to go crazy. You pretty much only need to change out to thicker gauge if running a completely new system and lots of power. Oh, and lots of audio enthusiast will tell you to not bother with the rear speakers. But that's up to you and what your ears like to hear and where, not others.
So if I purchased the JBL rear speakers then I would want to cut the ones in the headliner? Or are the rear speakers I got too many ohms even if I do cut off the ones up top?
 

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Hmmm should work. Are you sure you wired it right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hmmm should work. Are you sure you wired it right?
Pretty sure. Cut the red, white, yellow, and black wires in the kick panel. I was supposed to run them up to the connector in the dash correct? Or was I supposed to run them to the wires that were in the dash that were the same color that I cut from the connector? It’s more than likely that it’s had connections but is that the way to do it? The exciters in the ceiling no longer work so I think I cut the right wires.
 

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Yeah cut those 4 in the kickpanel, and cut the 4 in the connector behind the vent. Run wires to connect the cut wires all together. This eliminates the roof exciters and connects the back speakers to the radio instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah cut those 4 in the kickpanel, and cut the 4 in the connector behind the vent. Run wires to connect the cut wires all together. This eliminates the roof exciters and connects the back speakers to the radio instead.
So connect it to the ones I circled, NOT the ones coming out of the plug?
1148419
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Damn I connected it to the ones coming out of the connector lmao. I’ll redo it tomorrow
they finally got it done. Thanks for posting that description it helps a lot. That was much harder than it needed to be, just mounting the speakers alone was a pain in the ass. Thanks for the help though.
 
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