[SenseiSmash]

Was in the shop getting the U joints on my drive train fixed,, when under there he noticed it looks like I'm in need of new rear trailing arms on my 07 fj, bushings are shot.Anyone have some used ones laying around? Or if you have replaced yours what did you use?. I was about to pull the trigger on a 3"lift before these things popped up so the lift is on hold but incase anyone needs to know I will in the next year be putting the OME 3" kit on, not sure if the rear matters as much as the UCAs in front when lifting. I haven't had any time to do any research as this was just thrown at me.
Open to any brand, not sure if I should go oem or not.
I know there's a buyers guide but I honestly have no clue on what direction to go. I know I don't need icon bullet, I plan to wheel it after this all get fixed but it will be very moderate im not doing any crawling etc just off the beaten path to enjoy life.
Thank you in advance.

 

[sgore]

I plan on installing my Resz links and panhard weekend after next, and will have the OEM links and panhard available. They do have 166k miles on them, but no issues noted when I replaced the rear springs last summer.

Free if you want them,, but not sure if it'd be worth the shipping cost from 77373.

On aftermarket links, the Resz Fabrication seem really good, beautiful work. But not a good choice if you're in a hurry.

 

[SenseiSmash]

I plan on installing my Resz links and panhard weekend after next, and will have the OEM links and panhard available. They do have 166k miles on them, but no issues noted when I replaced the rear springs last summer.

Free if you want them,, but not sure if it'd be worth the shipping cost from 77373.

On aftermarket links, the Resz Fabrication seem really good, beautiful work. But not a good choice if you're in a hurry.

Man thank you so much!
I'm assuming they are pretty heavy based off your comment but im interested none the less.
I have a couple questions if you don't mind, I would love your input.
1. Since you are upgrading can u please tell me what caused you to move away from the OEM?
2. Is this something I would need anyhow if I'm doing a lift in the near future?

Thank you for any input!

 

[sgore]

Actually I'm not sure how much they weigh. The Resz set was $61 from Ohio to me for reference.

1. I am moving away from OEM because I am working towards a hybrid expedition build with rock-crawling capability. (The expedition side of things is mostly a function of there being no rocks within 4 hours of Houston, and no serious rocks within 12 hours.) OEM lower links have a reputation for bending if they take a hard hit.

2. Probably not unless you plan to attempt difficult trails. OTOH if you're going to replace them anyway...

Note that I am by no means an expert on suspensions, everything I currently know is theory craft gleaned from this forum. We shall see how it works out and I've already noticed some things about my build that I'll change..

There are a number of suspension component vendors, most with good reputations:

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/lower-link-comparison-guide

 

[Boabrother4]

The factory links are prone to bending, replace them with an aftermarket pair. Resz looks to be the best design based on the offset bushing placement. They will compliment a lifted fj nicely. Being for a lift they are longer than factory and I am not sure how they would work with a stock suspension. Would likely be ok for a little while but you will have time to lift before they would be delivered.

 

[mikey]

IMO, I would just replace them with ones from RockAuto. They are inexpensive and work well.

More Information for MEVOTECH CMS861141 (rockauto.com)

 

[Mr Earl]

If you or a buddy can weld, the OEM versions can be reinforced using angle iron. There are a couple of threads on this if you search.

 

[olongapo2]

SenseiSmash,
You mentioned doing a 3 inch lift. Depending on how high you plan to lift the rear, you may need adjustable lower, upper links, and panhard bar to correctly reposition the axle and adjust the pinion angle. Something to consider before dropping coin.

 

[Sparky of NWO]

Geez


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[mikey]

SenseiSmash,
You mentioned doing a 3 inch lift. Depending on how high you plan to lift the rear, you may need adjustable lower, upper links, and panhard bar to correctly reposition the axle and adjust the pinion angle. Something to consider before dropping coin.

No. Plenty of members have gone the 3" lift route with stock elements with zero issues.
Manufacturers fear monger for capital gains based of calculated and collective fear of perceived failure of not upgrading which very quickly is passed off as gospel.

 

[SenseiSmash]

Ended up being the upper control arms in the rear. A lot of stiff under there is in need of replacement

 

[SenseiSmash]

Ended up being the upper control arms in the rear. A lot of stiff under there is in need of replacement

Just another testament of how reliable and well made these are. I commute 50 miles a day city and hwy from 5-80 mph and never had a shake rattle or roll all that let me know something was going on was a clunk once in a while when going over something uneven.

 

[SenseiSmash]

Ended up being the upper control arms in the rear. A lot of stiff under there is in need of replacement

If u look in the first photo u will notice I just stood the bearing up in there. The entire gasket was destroyed

 

[Sparky of NWO]

Ended up being the upper control arms in the rear. A lot of stiff under there is in need of replacement

Forgot how puny those are.


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[SenseiSmash]

Forgot how puny those are.


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They really are lol

 

[FJtest]

No. Plenty of members have gone the 3" lift route with stock elements with zero issues.
Manufacturers fear monger for capital gains based of calculated and collective fear of perceived failure of not upgrading which very quickly is passed off as gospel.

A little more complicated than that, depending on how detail oriented you might be.

First, the OEM lower control arms don't spontaneously bend, they only get tweaked if you're doing serious rock crawling and the vehicle impacts hard on a rock or shelf that puts the weight of the vehicle on an arm rather than on the wheels.

Olongapo2 was correct when he said that after installing a suspension lift, to CORRECTLY position the rear axle (that is, put it exactly where Toyota designed it to be), you will need longer or adjustable control arms and Panhard rod. This is to correct the inevitable changes in geometry that occur when installing a suspension lift: the rear axle moves forward, the differential pinion angle increases, and the entire rear axle gets moved sideways slightly, relative to the frame.

mikey (lower case) was correct in saying that many people seem to get away with installing a 3" lift and NOT installing longer or adjustable control arms, etc. The rear axle is no longer exactly where it was designed to be, but handling does not generally seem to be severely affected.

The most important consideration may be pinion angle and U-joint life; you DO want the pinion angle to be as close to the original angle as possible.

.

 

[SenseiSmash]

Good to know,
After all the reading I did on a 2.5-3"lift this is the first time I'm seeing this info.
I plan to go with the Old Man Emu kit.
Replaced rear ucas with oem as of right now.