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Ridge you are my hero! You gave my husband and I something to do. I've opened my rear window two time since we've owned it...it's just a hassle to have to open and close it from outside.. I guess my 4 runner spoiled me. Now if only the back seat windows could pop open too my dog would be in heaven.
 

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i agree, if the mfg had put one in, it would be up front. but..... what i do is pop the rear window open and push a 1" "D" ring (avail from any hardware/craft/sewing store. the kind for nylon strapping and such) in place of the window latch, now i do not have that annoying door/window open idiot light on my dash. i get my cake and eat it too!
 

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Ridge111 said:
Easy. But they've already put some dynamatting in it. You may want to do more, I dunno.

Rear door: There are 2 bolts in the panel near the top, behind pop-off covers, the rest is clips.

Rear cargo: Remove the screws from the threshold plate. Remove the screws from the cargo hooks on the driver's side wall. Subwoofer side will be more complicated but you can probably figure it out, I only worked on the driver's side. Remove the cargo hooks from the floor. The seats got me at first. To remove each seat, unsnap the cover from the back of it, it's all clips. Then remove the bolts from the hinges and take the seat back off. Leave the hinges attached to the body. Remove the 14mm bolts from the lower attachment points of the seatbelts. Everything should snap out from there. The floor mat just comes out, the side panels unsnap. Oh you have to remove the door thresholds before taking out the side wall panels.
do you need to remove the flooring to remove the rear cargo side panel?
 

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well, i finally got my rear switch done. i just put it in the mystery pop-out thingey in the rear door panel. i figure, i unlock the door with the alarm remote, then just open the door unlock the rear hatch (while all of the other doors lock), then push the switch the other way to unlock the doors again. then load what i am going to load and on my way. i bought the SPDT (single pole, double throw) momentary, center off switch online from a company called marvac.com. looks stock.
 

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dbbd1 said:
well, i finally got my rear switch done. i just put it in the mystery pop-out thingey in the rear door panel. i figure, i unlock the door with the alarm remote, then just open the door unlock the rear hatch (while all of the other doors lock), then push the switch the other way to unlock the doors again. then load what i am going to load and on my way. i bought the SPDT (single pole, double throw) momentary, center off switch online from a company called marvac.com. looks stock.
That looks real nice. Good install!

--Bill
 

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Too much work. I bought a Clifford Matrix 3.5 alarm and the installer hooked the window release to my keyfob. Yeah :)
 

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Here's a thought on the wiper problem: How about putting a normally-closed relay in series with the door lock wire instead of cutting it. Control the relay with the button that opens the window. When you push the button, the relay opens the circuit to the door lock, preventing the locks from operating. The key should still work normally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Here's a thought on the wiper problem: How about putting a normally-closed relay in series with the door lock wire instead of cutting it. Control the relay with the button that opens the window. When you push the button, the relay opens the circuit to the door lock, preventing the locks from operating. The key should still work normally.
Nice, I like that. I'd do it but I removed the wiper arm from the outside of the door anyway. I still might do it. Great idea.
 

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Here's a thought on the wiper problem: How about putting a normally-closed relay in series with the door lock wire instead of cutting it. Control the relay with the button that opens the window. When you push the button, the relay opens the circuit to the door lock, preventing the locks from operating. The key should still work normally.
For us non electonically inclined dudes, can someone come up with step by step instructions, part numbers, pictures, diagrams? I'd sure like to do this w/o screwing anything up!

I've been wanting to put in the button for some time, finally got some time but worried about consequences.

T
 

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For us non electonically inclined dudes, can someone come up with step by step instructions, part numbers, pictures, diagrams? I'd sure like to do this w/o screwing anything up!

I've been wanting to put in the button for some time, finally got some time but worried about consequences.

T
anybody....
 

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Here is another question, that hopefully someone has researched. Are the 4Runner or Sequoia buttons the same??? It would be nice to have a button that fits in one of the button ports and it match.

I would think that the 4Runner, Sequioa, Rav4 or Highlander would use a similar button???
 

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I put some thought into the switch and came up with this idea that should work. I tested the diode with a brake lamp and the battery in my FJ and it works fine. This is how I plan to install the button in my truck, in the under-dash location described by Ridge.
 

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The picture doesn't show the diode very well but it has a grey end and a black end. Current will flow from the black to grey but not the other way. Place the diode in the circuit so the black end is on the ECU side so current can flow from the ECU to the window motor when using the key but the diode will block it from flowing to the ECU when using the button.
 

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I put some thought into the switch and came up with this idea that should work. I tested the diode with a brake lamp and the battery in my FJ and it works fine. This is how I plan to install the button in my truck, in the under-dash location described by Ridge.
Yep, same circuit I used. I'm gonna put my switch in the overhead console when I find one I like.
 

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i love diodes :pinklove:

but... does the diode let the rear wiper work? if not a relay would have to be used instead of a diode...

Does anyone know?
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
i love diodes :pinklove:

but... does the diode let the rear wiper work? if not a relay would have to be used instead of a diode...

Does anyone know?
Yes because they won't be disconnecting the brown/red wire.

The only drawback to that circuit is that you lose the soft return of the latch. Kind of hard to describe but how it works stock is that when you activate the release it's instant, but when it returns to its resting position it eases back into place. This function is performed by the ecu, it bleeds off the voltage rather than just dropping from 12v to 0v. With that circuit you are putting 12v directly on and then off and the latch slams back to its resting position. It's not a big deal, but the soft return is kinda nice.
 

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The picture doesn't show the diode very well but it has a grey end and a black end. Current will flow from the black to grey but not the other way. Place the diode in the circuit so the black end is on the ECU side so current can flow from the ECU to the window motor when using the key but the diode will block it from flowing to the ECU when using the button.
If anyone actually installs this diode using Ridge's original layout, please post pictures and a source for the diode.

Thanks
 

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The diode is from Radio Shack. Part number: 276-1144
 

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My kids and I installed a pushbutton for the rear window this weekend in the
location described in the original post by Ridge, next to the front hood release.
I used a diode from Radio Shack and the electrical diagram I posted above.
I cut the blue w/yellow stripe wire as shown in the photo and soldered (a third
hand to hold the wires for soldering was provided by my 14-year old, Matt) the
black end of the diode to the ECU end of the wire and the grey end of the diode
(with the pushbutton power wire) to the motor end of the blue w/yellow stripe wire.
The diode protects the ECU by preventing current from flowing back to the ECU when
the button up front is pushed, but still allows normal functioning of the key in
the back door as well as the rear wiper. The button wire was pulled through the
rubber conduit, along with the rear camera power wire, with an eight-inch
piece of wire clothes hanger. A loop was bent into the hanger, the ends of the
wiring were passed through and then secured with tape. Push the clothes hanger
through the conduit and then pull the wires through. Power was obtained by
using a voltmeter to find an unused fuse slot that is always hot, placing the
power wire (blue wire in photo) into the the cold side (upper) of the slot and
then pushing a 15 amp fuse into the slot. The fuse will protect the 14ga wire
I used for the back window button. To my uncalibrated ear, the window sounds
the same when using the key or the button to open it.
 

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