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Because when the switch connects the blue and purple (same as inserting the key in the rear door keyhole and turning right) it locks all the doors, which means you then have to unlock the doors again after you use your button to pop the window. Disconnecting the brown/red stripe prevents the rear door ecu from sending the lock signal to the body ecu so that the doors don't lock when you push the button. My fob still unlocks all of the doors including the rear door. The only functionality lost in doing this is that the keyhole in the rear door no longer locks/unlocks the doors, and it disables the rear wiper. I don't like that it's not a perfect solution, but since I hate rear wipers anyway, I just removed my wiper.
If you put a diode as described in posts 52 and 60 in the blue and purple wire, the ECU will never receive a signal from the button and hence won't lock the doors. I use the button all the time and have never seen the doors lock. The wiper works normally and so does the key and button. If you want to keep the wiper, I highly recommend using a diode. Take care,
Bugs
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
If you put a diode as described in posts 52 and 60 in the blue and purple wire, the ECU will never receive a signal from the button and hence won't lock the doors. I use the button all the time and have never seen the doors lock. The wiper works normally and so does the key and button. If you want to keep the wiper, I highly recommend using a diode. Take care,
Bugs
I like your setup I just haven't bothered to dig back into it. I'm wondering if a diode could be used in combination with my setup, either on the brown/red wire or the blue or purple to prevent the door locking. Then we wouldn't have to tap into 12v. Best of both worlds.

I was re-reading this and I think I see why your setup still has the soft return of the latch. It's because your blue/yellow is still connected to the ECU via the diode, so the ECU is still controlling the latch return. It's hard to describe the hard/soft return thing, but if you disconnect the blue/yellow from the ecu and then apply 12v to the blue/yellow then you'll see what I mean.
 

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I like your setup I just haven't bothered to dig back into it. I'm wondering if a diode could be used in combination with my setup, either on the brown/red wire or the blue or purple to prevent the door locking. Then we wouldn't have to tap into 12v. Best of both worlds.

I was re-reading this and I think I see why your setup still has the soft return of the latch. It's because your blue/yellow is still connected to the ECU via the diode, so the ECU is still controlling the latch return. It's hard to describe the hard/soft return thing, but if you disconnect the blue/yellow from the ecu and then apply 12v to the blue/yellow then you'll see what I mean.
Hi Ridge,

Your idea of putting a diode into the wire is very interesting. I think I'll try that when I get home next week and see if the window will open with the key and not lock the doors. Great idea! Truly the best setup if it works. When I have the back panel off, I want to see if I can put in some sort of manual release for the back door from the inside. This was talked about a while back but I haven't seen anyone do it. Take care,
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Impressive, seeing I still need to go back their to lift the window open I don't see this saving any time. Nice work though.
Works for me. Perfect for vehicle ops works like a charm when I need my trunk money to engage stuff out of the hatch. Thumbs up.
 

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Ridge and Bugs,

I am way late getting in on this but I need to do this too and do it right.

I do not need a button up front but need a way out the back while camping in the back of the FJ.

Just for discussion, could one a keyed alike lock cylinder that matches the original key and install it in the black plastic of the two inch square plug. Then could it be wired in just like the outside key cylinder so a camper who has his keys with him in the back could just insert the key and duplicate all the functions as if outside?

Would be clean, not accidentally opened but functional from the inside, including the ability to lock/unlock the vehicle with the key from inside the tailgate.

May not work to unlatch the door since that is accomplished with the handle. Wonder if a handle could be retro-installed on the inside?

Double throw switch with diodes may do it all and I am ok with that but just wondering about the key cylinder.

My goal is to be able to lock the vehicle from the inside without using the key fob and causing the beep and to be able to unlock/open the door (not the window) from the inside to get out in the mornings.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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The key cylinder sounds like it would work and provide a little security for a less than determined thief. Getting the cylinder from Toyota shouldn't be a problem but getting it keyed to your truck could be a challenge. You could probably get a cylinder and key to use only in that location and the regular key for the other locks. A crude inside door release could be made by gluing or taping a piece of wire to the door handle release rod and running it out the top of the back door molding and attaching a ring or something. If the door is unlocked, pulling on the ring would have the same effect as pulling on the handle from the outside. The rod is visible and accessible after the back door molding is removed. More thought could be put into cosmetics and a better design would result but a basic release handle is certainly possible.

Let us know if you get something figured out. Have a great day,
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I know this thread is VERY old but I thought I would throw this idea out there...

Everyone of you seems to want to open the rear glass with the key fob. I have seen where people have located the panic button output of the wireless fob receiver that goes to the alarm, and routed that wire for other purposes. Some vehicles this completely disables the alarm (because the wireless receiver is what controls the alarm) and others where they only lost the panic button functionality (because the receiver simply sends a signal to the alarm control unit). I will try to find a thread where I have seen it done. I do not own an FJ (yet :mecry:) so I can't exactly go and experiment with this but I thought I would throw the idea out there to anyone on these forums that would want to try it.

Let me know if that isn't clear enough and I will try to explain differently.
 

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I know this thread is VERY old but I thought I would throw this idea out there...

Everyone of you seems to want to open the rear glass with the key fob. I have seen where people have located the panic button output of the wireless fob receiver that goes to the alarm, and routed that wire for other purposes. Some vehicles this completely disables the alarm (because the wireless receiver is what controls the alarm) and others where they only lost the panic button functionality (because the receiver simply sends a signal to the alarm control unit). I will try to find a thread where I have seen it done. I do not own an FJ (yet :mecry:) so I can't exactly go and experiment with this but I thought I would throw the idea out there to anyone on these forums that would want to try it.


Let me know if that isn't clear enough and I will try to explain differently.


Digging up old thread, but did anyone else think it's possible to make this setup work?

I was in the In n Out drive through for quite some time tonight, and had the dog in the back. In order for me to open the rear glass for him I would have had to turn off the rig, get out and go open it from the outside. I read through all the posts prior to this one and thought that it would be great to have a button up on the dash next to all the other buttons, maybe a factory 4Runner rear window switch wired up, but it would be cool to have it work with the panic button!
 

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someone awhile back did an electric back window open. it's here in the archives somewhere.
 

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someone awhile back did an electric back window open. it's here in the archives somewhere.
Thanks, yeah I saw that set-up!
 

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Is there anywhere to find a replacement wire that runs from the lock where you stick the key in the the plug that runs to the ECU. The little plastic clips that hold it to the lock broke. The closest dealer ship is about 2 1/2 hours from me so I was hoping I could find one online.
 

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I know, that is a realy old thread. But I've done some work to my FJ:

I've never sat in the driver's seat and thought to myself: It would be great if I could open the rear window now. Whenever I wanted to open the window, I stood at the (closed) back door. So here is my solution:



Two relays and two diodes and a few cables and you can open the window from the outside. Of course only when the central locking is open. I used a normal stainless steel bell button for a front door with a diameter of 18 mm. I drilled a matching hole in the tailgate, just to the right of the lock.
The relays: Without power, one with status open (R1), one with status closed (R2). These and the diodes are standard products, nothing special.
The supply lines:
  • I branched off permanent positive on a line that goes to the control unit (the second from the right, please measure yourself).
  • Central locking on: This is the plug that leads to the lock, the second from the top.
  • Central locking closed: This is the top one in the plug that leads to the lock.
  • Ground: on a screw in the tailgate

Please convert carefully and double check. A short circuit can occur in the event of a fault. It is best to insert a 10 A fuse in the supply line for permanent positive.
I think the connection to the control unit with the second diode (down right in the picture) will never be used again so there is no need to reconnect, but it makes things neater.
Nothing is changed to the wiper, it works.

Another thing: If the central lock is open and only then, this solution takes power, about 3 - 4 Watt/300mA per hour. Just for your knowledge.
 
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