Rebuild or Replace Engine? I Just Purchased a 2007 TRD SE
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What is the diagnostic computer stating in regards to the timing and cylinder checks?I just purchased a 2007 TRD SE with 165k miles for $9.5k knowing it would need some repairs to the engine, because the owner was not performing regularly maintenance over his 3 years of ownership (3 oil changes over 35k miles). Although, he did make some significant repairs:
Timing Chain replaced ('20)
Rear Diff replaced (2020)
I had a pre-purchase inspection done at the local Toyota dealership, and they said the timing chain looked new but does appear to be slightly loose again and noted there was a noise coming from the top of the engine too. After purchasing, I took my FJ to a local mechanic for a thorough inspection and he said we could either 1) tear apart the existing engine to replace the timing chain and determine what the ticking is at the cylinder heads or 2) replace the engine with a used or rebuilt engine.
The mechanic is currently flushing all the fluids since those likely haven't been changed in awhile, and the oil was dark in the differential. I'm planning to do my own minor repairs: calipers, rotors, brakes, struts, LCA, etc. Other than all that, my first FJ drives great
Here's my question, I was surprised that the mechanic then said it wouldn't be worthwhile to rebuild since we don't know everything that's wrong with it, so he recommended replacing with a salvaged engine (same spec) with 121k miles for $12k (includes replacing oil sear, oil pan, water pump, spark plugs, and valve cover gaskets). Oof! I called another shop that installs Jasper Engines, and they quoted me $10k for the Jasper engine & install out the door. Now I'm at a crossroads:
1. Rebuild existing engine (unknown cost and need to find mechanic)
2. Replace with salvaged
3. Replace with rebuilt
4. Call it quits and sell this to someone more handy than me
I'd prefer to do #1, because it seems like this engine should still have some lift in it and the salvaged price is WAY more than I thought. I'm ok with #3, but I was hoping to keep a Toyota engine in this vehicle. I'd prefer to not sell since I purchased this vehicle knowing the rarity of the '07 TRD SEs and how great condition ones have sold for a lot on auction sites. Even with these repairs, I think I'll still be close to breaking even? I've always loved FJs, so my plan was to use this as my daily and enjoy a vehicle that's amazing to drive and doesn't depreciate significantly.
TL;DR: My engine is unhappy. I need advice on if I should try to save her, break up with her for a salvaged or rebuilt engine, or just say goodbye to FJ life for now.
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There are plenty of things to consider BEFORE doing an engine out service.
If you got it for under $10k, drive it for a few months. You can't hurt anything by just driving it. If you are already thinking of replacing the engine, drive it till it dies. Do a Chemtool B-12 engine flush. change the plugs, coils if you think they aren't oem (denso or ngk).
watch your fuel trims. If timing is off, you will be lean or rich. watch timing on the reader too. learn the engine first, then maybe replace it
If you got it for under $10k, drive it for a few months. You can't hurt anything by just driving it. If you are already thinking of replacing the engine, drive it till it dies. Do a Chemtool B-12 engine flush. change the plugs, coils if you think they aren't oem (denso or ngk).
watch your fuel trims. If timing is off, you will be lean or rich. watch timing on the reader too. learn the engine first, then maybe replace it
I agree exactly about just driving it and see what happens. My own 300k still seems to run great but I know that day will come. When that happens, if genuine Toyota shortblocks are still available that’s the direction I am going to go. That is an option I haven’t seen discussed above. I just have concerns about a junkyard motor. It is a different story if it was only a job for a couple $k, like the old days for $500 for a Chevy 350. A rebuilt is only as good as the mechanic doing the work. I know a shortblock still requires substantial work to reassemble but at least you have confidence in the bottom end. If it costs me $10-15k for another 15 years and 300k, I’m good with that. Fact is…..that will probably outlast me at that point.
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Appreciate all the interest here, and I'll continue to provide updates. I need advice from people that know these FJs way better than me 
Current status: Oil change is complete and all fluids will be flushed Monday. Then, I'm in a holding pattern with the engine until I have the results from Blackstone.
The mechanic has yet to take photos of the chain adjuster through the port or the engine photos with valve cover off. I'm out of town until next weekend, so I might have to simply take those photos & the video of the engine running myself on 3/27. I'll upload those here and would welcome any feedback.
While I wait for the Blackstone results, I'm going to replace the front struts, LCA, and calipers, etc. with the help of Youtube videos and my neighbor. Will update photos of the overall progress, ha.
Current status: Oil change is complete and all fluids will be flushed Monday. Then, I'm in a holding pattern with the engine until I have the results from Blackstone.
The mechanic has yet to take photos of the chain adjuster through the port or the engine photos with valve cover off. I'm out of town until next weekend, so I might have to simply take those photos & the video of the engine running myself on 3/27. I'll upload those here and would welcome any feedback.
While I wait for the Blackstone results, I'm going to replace the front struts, LCA, and calipers, etc. with the help of Youtube videos and my neighbor. Will update photos of the overall progress, ha.
I have a 2007 trd se 6speed
I would say that repair is very doable at that mileage. If you are a worrier and concerned, find a shop that will scope each cylinder. Should still see cross hatch on cylinder walls and run a compression test. If you have good looking cylinder walls and good even compression readings I wouldn’t hesitate to repair the engine. I do this for a living and as long as there is no knocking or ominous sounds or signs , there has not been anything that you described that would condemn that engine in my eyes.
best advice is find a shop you trust and rely on information they can provide you
I would say that repair is very doable at that mileage. If you are a worrier and concerned, find a shop that will scope each cylinder. Should still see cross hatch on cylinder walls and run a compression test. If you have good looking cylinder walls and good even compression readings I wouldn’t hesitate to repair the engine. I do this for a living and as long as there is no knocking or ominous sounds or signs , there has not been anything that you described that would condemn that engine in my eyes.
best advice is find a shop you trust and rely on information they can provide you
Regarding the ticking noise, my wife's Audi Allroad (4 cyl turbo) ticking noise is due to fuel metering of the injection system. I recall our old Honda CRV making the same sound for the same reason.
I don't know if this is also the case with our FJ's.
I don't know if this is also the case with our FJ's.
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A very good point!
Regarding a ticking noise coming from the top front of the engine, it is normal. See attached thread for an example:
Ticking Noise
Hey guys, My 07 FJ has a ticking noise coming from the valve train at idle. I took it to the dealer and they service manager there said it's normal. Does any one else have a noise coming from their valve train? Thanks!
www.fjcruiserforums.com
There is an emission control component called the PWM-vacuum switching valve screwed to the intake manifold on the drivers side. You can access it by removing the plastic shield over the intake manifold. It is held in place by a single screw. This thing activates when the vehicle is at idle and at temperature.
If this is what your mechanic is citing then you might have no trouble at all.
Regarding wear of the chain, it can be measured via the length of the chain tensioner sticking out. New is about 6-8mm. Much more than that will indicate wear.
Man if I were you I’d drive it til it dies. Do the oil flush procedures other people are talking about if you’re worried about sludge, but these engines are noisy, they tick, and the timing chains are known to last hundreds of thousands of miles.
I bought my FJ with a blown engine with 182k miles and had the invoice from a timing chain replacement at 114k miles. At the time the technician noted the oil pickup tube was sludged up and that he cleaned and reinstalled. My guess is the previous owner never addressed what was causing the sludge in the first place and thus starved the engine of oil blowing it.
I elected to put a used motor in, shop did it in 4 days and it purrs like a kitten.
These engines aren’t good candidates for rebuilds due to the spiny type piston sleeves. It has been done but it’s rare. However these engines are super common used as they were used in FJs, Tacomas, and 4Runners. Personally I’d trust something Toyota put together in a factory over something rebuilt in a shop and that’s why I went with a used motor. Just my $0.02.
I bought my FJ with a blown engine with 182k miles and had the invoice from a timing chain replacement at 114k miles. At the time the technician noted the oil pickup tube was sludged up and that he cleaned and reinstalled. My guess is the previous owner never addressed what was causing the sludge in the first place and thus starved the engine of oil blowing it.
I elected to put a used motor in, shop did it in 4 days and it purrs like a kitten.
These engines aren’t good candidates for rebuilds due to the spiny type piston sleeves. It has been done but it’s rare. However these engines are super common used as they were used in FJs, Tacomas, and 4Runners. Personally I’d trust something Toyota put together in a factory over something rebuilt in a shop and that’s why I went with a used motor. Just my $0.02.
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Drive it till engine blows for good ! 10k is excessive. You’re talking white boy mechanics. I can get a good engine under 100k miles for less than 3 grand and my MexiCan mechanic will do the swap for 1,500 or 2k ! But as I state ! I am Mexicans we do the **** cheaper and better 😜
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If it's still running, don't fix it. The top always ticks. If it has a tick or knock from anything oil related, the crankshaft and dohcs are likely done anyways, just try to take care of it while it's putting out power. Wait for the knock to get really bad (but before a rod goes through the block) and to give you a reason to spend an arm and a leg. You'll still come out ahead in cost vs any late model low mileage FJ. Just go with high mileage synthetic and strong maintenance, and understand that these engines sound horrible up top from the factory. If you want peace of mind, take the valve covers off and clean the cams, under that plastic cover is a relatively accessible engine, just make sure you get a gasket/seal kit to avoid oil leaks.
If they didn't replace the guides (the actual main wear part) when they did the timing chain, that's why it's loose, as long as it hasn't skipped a tooth and is enough in spec not to, wait until you can learn to do it and the guides yourself. It's really just a ton of bolts, some basic procedures, and not rocket surgery, and not worth paying a mechanic who has never done it before on an FJ, either.
Don't bother resleeving or rebuilding them unless you want more performance and got a fat wallet, people crash 4.0 Tacomas and 4.0 4Runners everyday with the same engines. Jasper has the correct price for a reman of these engines, but a used junkyard engine from a crash likely will output similar performance. You can probably get something rear ended for way cheaper if you look, because these engines are rarely replaced outside of flood damage. I used to have a junkyard engine just sitting around rebuilt from a leaking intake manifold and waiting to go, and never needed it.
I got a 2007 I've owned since new, and it's always run rich, put out black smoke under heavy load (max towing under acceleration), and ticked like a cummins. It's just how those 1GR-FE first year FJs are. Mine has 180,000 miles, I'm **** at maintenance, and it's just works, better than a Todd Howard product.
TDLR: Find a better local mechanic.
If they didn't replace the guides (the actual main wear part) when they did the timing chain, that's why it's loose, as long as it hasn't skipped a tooth and is enough in spec not to, wait until you can learn to do it and the guides yourself. It's really just a ton of bolts, some basic procedures, and not rocket surgery, and not worth paying a mechanic who has never done it before on an FJ, either.
Don't bother resleeving or rebuilding them unless you want more performance and got a fat wallet, people crash 4.0 Tacomas and 4.0 4Runners everyday with the same engines. Jasper has the correct price for a reman of these engines, but a used junkyard engine from a crash likely will output similar performance. You can probably get something rear ended for way cheaper if you look, because these engines are rarely replaced outside of flood damage. I used to have a junkyard engine just sitting around rebuilt from a leaking intake manifold and waiting to go, and never needed it.
I got a 2007 I've owned since new, and it's always run rich, put out black smoke under heavy load (max towing under acceleration), and ticked like a cummins. It's just how those 1GR-FE first year FJs are. Mine has 180,000 miles, I'm **** at maintenance, and it's just works, better than a Todd Howard product.
TDLR: Find a better local mechanic.
Thank you for that info! 👍 I have 257k on mine now, and I'm guessing it's near it's death...although the darn thing doesn't burn any oil, sounds like a 5 year old car and not a 15 year old car...all systems are in good shape...but last week while flooring it on the freeway, all of sudden the red oil pressure light🚨came on and I pulled over immediately and turn the car off. When I turned it back on, the oil pressure light was somehow reset and didn't light up. That's my worry...🙏
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