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Are you absolutely certain you got the correct skid plate for your specific vehicle and model year?

This is how everything should fit together ('14 with Richochet aluminum armor): front edge of transmission skid clamped directly against front crossmember, rear edge trans skid clamped against transmission crossmember, with the cat rails below the plate.

Positioning the rear edge of the skid plate on top of the cat protectors makes zero sense.
View attachment 1135778
yes im positive. If you go to resz fabrication website you will see it has a totally different design where the front and rear skid bolt together. if it is not level than the rear skid points down and then obviously you create a bigger problem. You can see that the three fingers on the rear skid will point down and get caught on eveything not to mention the rear of the skid will sit against the crossover pipe.
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My Ricochet engine skid and Toyota cargo-bay skid have both been off several times for straightening after rock contact.

Luckily I have access to a 25T hydraulic press and a huge rack-and-pinion arbor press that made flattening them out fairly easy. Even a little deformation of the engine skid will affect bolt alignment and prevent re-installing the plate after removing it for an oil change.
 

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RESZ's website does advertise "No exposed bolt heads "
 

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Since the OP got his question answered I'll play.
OG Ricochet skids. Had them for about 7 years. Just decided to change it up one day and they now reside on someone else's FJ.





By the end the engine skid was a little wavy, but no issues bolting it back on time and time again.
iwashmycar -
It looks like you had an earlier version of the Ricochet engine skid that might have been a little less sensitive to bolt misalignment caused by deformation of the plate.

In your photos, the middle bolts are in a different location than on later skids, and the 'long' tubular spacers used on the middle bolts appear to be separate parts. On the later skids, these spacers were welded to the top of the plate. A significant impact to the plate can 'spring' it, causing the tops of the tall spacers to move out of correct alignment with their weld nuts in the crossmember. You can take the plate off, but you won't be able to get it back on, and get the bolts aligned with the nuts, until you straighten the plate and move the tops of the spacers back into the correct location.
Ricochet engine skid.JPG
 

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iwashmycar -
It looks like you had an earlier version of the Ricochet engine skid that might have been a little less sensitive to bolt misalignment caused by deformation of the plate.

In your photos, the middle bolts are in a different location than on later skids, and the 'long' tubular spacers used on the middle bolts appear to be separate parts. On the later skids, these spacers were welded to the top of the plate. A significant impact to the plate can 'spring' it, causing the tops of the tall spacers to move out of correct alignment with their weld nuts in the crossmember. You can take the plate off, but you won't be able to get it back on, and get the bolts aligned with the nuts, until you straighten the plate and move the tops of the spacers back into the correct location.
Yeah they were the very first style that went atop the OEM steel skids. I liked them a lot was just a PITA to install them with all the OE skids and all those cup washer ect each time. Was a bit easier to fudge their alignment
 

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Very curious, I have the ricochet skid plates that mount UNDER the cat protecting tubes and I would have thought that is what all manufacturers would have done to increase ground clearance. But I guess designing it the other way so they bolt OVER the cat tubes makes it so they can have a flush, flat bottom without adding additional angles up and down, thus simplifying the design and making hang-ups on rocks less likely as a rock could more easily slide along vs get caught. Still happy with my Ricochet skids though, but lad we have the forums for stuff like this!
 
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