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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Brand new FJ owner here. It’s a 6” lifted 2007 with 116k mileage. It’s lived in multiple states, including Hawaii and Texas and is now here in WA. I noticed some tire rubbing after bringing it home and after nearly being flung off the freeway by wobble I assumed it needed some work done . Couldn’t go to my regular people because it’s lifted so I took it to a place suggest by someone else. I’ve owned it less than 2 months and still owe close to 13k but I had decided I loved this thing and wanted to keep it running as long as possible but I’m wondering if this quote is decent. I used to do all my own work with the help of my grandfather who was a mechanic but as he’s passed I’ve got to start getting it worked on but not sure who to trust. I’m pretty sure the lift was done pretty close to the 2006 and I’m sure Hawaii had a lot to do with the rust practically everywhere in the car. I’m not sure if the original owners (there was a couple before me) ever took it out 4 wheeling but I think the chances are decent that one of them might have. Also I had noticed quite a bit of oil on a few of the parts so I do know there’s some decent leaks in a couple places on the rack)
Think this is an okay price?
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You can get much better parts than what they are trying to give you . Also you could save a boat load of money by doing most if not all your self .
 

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1. Where are you located in Washington? If close to Issaquah go to Mule and have them take a look
2. Without seeing the truck in person hard to say but, I would take it to another location just to get a second quote.
 

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I'm not sure about 6" lift; only have 3" on mine.

You can get much better parts than what they are trying to give you. Also you could save a boat load of money by doing most if not all your self .
This, and "do you actually need that replaced" are the big things to consider.

If they'll allow "customer provided own parts," you can bring a lot of the parts that you care about and either provide better parts than they would choose, or cheaper parts.

Steering Rack

They're saying the steering rack needs to be serviced and replaced? I'd get a 2nd opinion on anything that big, especially if it costs that much. For me personally, I might let a shop with a real lift and a garage full of spare hands and tools do that for me - but if you've got experience and the workspace...

Rear Upper Control Arm & Sway Bar Links

You ought to be able to find better and/or cheaper rear UCAs from the various Toyota 4x4 aftermarket vendors. Sway bar links should be painless and quick to do yourself, especially if you've done any suspension work before (but even if you haven't as long as you have an impact driver). Especially with a 6" lift - you ought to have plenty of room to get under there & access them.

I think what they're referring to as "rear upper control arms" are a bit trickier to work with 'cause you've got to move the suspension components around to get the bolt holes to line up. Not impossible to do (but, I failed in my attempt in a parking lot without a proper set of jacks & tools. Again, if you have the right workspace and the right tools, this shouldn't be difficult, either).

Struts

They're referring to your front coilovers!? I google'd part 171371L and found this. Typically, folks are pretty particular about which brand of suspension is on their rig - as it has a huge impact on ride quality on- and off-road. I have "helped" (handed tools to) a couple acquaintances who knocked out the front and rear suspension installation on an FJ Cruiser in a morning, so if you've got the right tools and know what to do, you can probably handle that yourself, as well (maybe call a buddy for an extra set of hands). If nothing else, I'd ask a bit more about why the front coilovers need to be replaced... and what they plan to replace them with. However, $286 for the labor of swapping the front coilovers seems like a steal to me.

If you can check the brand of front suspension that's on there now, that would be good information to share. You've guessed it was put on almost immediately, back in 2006? If it's never been serviced, it isn't unreasonable that 14 years later it's in poor shape. With 14 years and 116k miles, I would wager that just about any front suspension would at least be in need of a rebuild. It's interesting, then, that they didn't mention the rear shocks, which presumably are the same age and have the same mileage. I wonder if the front just got extra-traumatized, if they didn't check, or if the rears are actually still in good shape?

Shocks are a "buy once, cry once" thing (if you can at all afford it) - if you've got to pay to get new shocks (e.g. if the ones you've got are toast, and can't be rebuilt), take the time to research what you really, truly want, and then pay for it (cry once) instead of getting something still-expensive-but-cheaper, and then buying the set you really want later on, anyway.

Half Shaft ( Front - Both)

So, they're saying that both front CV axles need to be replaced, at $180 a pop parts cost? That had better be new-in-box OEM Toyota axle shafts! RockAuto has 3rd-party aftermarket CVs for the FJ for ~$80 a piece. I hear folks on the forum say the OEM Toyota shafts are much tougher, and worth keeping. Again, I'd ask why they need replacing. You can find grease & boot rebuild kits for the shafts for ~$60 from Pure FJ Cruiser. If they're claiming the gears/joints (don't remember what's inside the FJ's CV...) inside the axle shafts are toast and that's why they need replacing... well that $180 better be buying you a brand new OEM Toyota CV!

FWIW, the alignment at least, if by "lifetime warranty" they mean "we'll align it again and you won't pay, every 5,000 miles or so when you rotate your tires," $200's not a bad deal if they can actually align a 6" lifted truck. When you find a place that can consistently align your 4x4, especially a 6" lifted FJ, stick with 'em and reward them.

Basically, if this quote is to be believed, the front suspension was pretty toasted - coilvers and springs are shot, the steering rack is shot, and the CV axles are shot. And the rear was in suspicious shape - the rear UCAs need replacing and the sway bar links, too, plus the rear diff seal? That reads like "someone rode this rig HARD" or "someone had no idea what they were doing when they installed the 6" lift and now lots of things are damaged because they don't fit right anymore," or, as you suggest, a rip-off.

I guess they checked the rear diff (or... rear axle shaft? I'm not sure I'm interpreting their quote properly) whose seals need replacing and found that inside, it was all still okay? They caught the bad seals before anything really bad could happen?

I hear anecdotally that 6" lifts are harder to get right on the FJ Cruiser's independent front suspension, so it doesn't strike me as outside the realm of plausibility that it's actually in this bad shape.

But defintely get a 2nd opinon somewhere else, and ask why each part need replacing and which brand they plan to use for the replacement.

If the place you got that quote from wasn't a specialty 4x4/off-road shop, it might be worth shopping around for a place that specializes in off-road vehicles (at least for this initial checkup and fixup), even if it's a bit more out of your way.

The forum members might be able to be more useful if you could upload some quality, well-lit photos of the areas in question.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks everyone for the replies. I really wish I could do the work myself but all the tools were his and when he didn’t have anything written down in a will his wife got everything and sold it. (He had to mortgage the house a couple times to keep up with her spending so as you can imagine we tried to get some of his things but were unable to as she rather have money then graciously hand anything over to anyone else).
One of the things the guy mentioned to me was that it looked like it had been done by someone that didn’t know what they were doing. And I know from just looking under the hood and some of the after market parks that bolts were missing EVERYWHERE... it was like they liked to do the bare minimum so if it needed four bolts they’d only put in two...
I had seen a massive price difference in a couple of the parts they quoted too and wondered about that. I’ll have to ask why and what brand they are putting in and if I can bring my own parts.
But from what I gather from the replies the labor charges don’t seem too crazy so that’s good at least. Unfortunately all my previous work with my vehicles were all engine problems outside of replacing the cotter pin on my 87 Jeep Cherokee axel so I just don’t have enough knowledge on suspensions...

Little update: I was checking out the checklist the mechanic was filling out as he went. It included front tire cupping but not back tire cupping, LR upper control bolt not secured and rusted, RR upper control arm bushings worn, RR missing lug nuts, LR link pin (something with a b) falling apart, RF inner axel sel leaks.. needless to say it’s pretty chicken scratchy but I’m pretty sure that’s what everything says also play in rear diff but to be dealt with later. Also notes of rack pinion assembling, cv boots/joints, and struts all leaking
 

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A couple of things. first. you will not be getting oem cvs for 180 each. if so sign me up for a endless supply. . they are more in the 450 -550 range each . you can get rebuilt oem from CVJ axle though . I also believe you can get a rebuilt rack from them as well . maybe if you can post some pics of your suspension and we can see what you have . Some 6 inch lifts you can upgrade to Radfo shocks and it is a world of difference . If you are ok with running OE links you can get new bushing . or just get upgraded links. Metal Tech. Resz Fab ( Apachie offroad sells rebranded Resz ) or Rockman are all good . you could Also get a set of Taco tabs from polyperformance and be done with alingments
 
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