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Re: River/Water Forging

Velheru said:
Need to install a drain plug, I tip mine up at about 15 degrees when i do a wet wash on the inside to let it run out the doors.
I guess I'm not too concerned with getting it dry when I wash it out...I'm concerned with years of crap getting under the rubber and destroying the seal that the paint provides. Once that happens, it's only a matter of time before rust starts to buildup. During the course of a year there will be a lot of moisture buildup that we don't even realize and I just don't want exposed metal feeling the affects of that trapped moisture.

A drain plug will not help to keep the sand from gathering between the floorboards and rubber flooring. How do I keep that crap out short of pulling all the rubber and spraying a liner seal? Actually, that's probably what I should just do if I'm that concerned.
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

Thats not a bad idea really. Do a spray in liner like rhino or something just a thin layer then glue mat back down on top of it.
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

Velheru said:
Thats not a bad idea really. Do a spray in liner like rhino or something just a thin layer then glue mat back down on top of it.
Yeah, and it would probably help a lot in the rear cargo area for my poor pups and the heat they feel. Anybody know how much, if any, insulation those spray in liners provide?
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

I still haven't done any water crossings but do give it thumbs up for the washable interior ;) I didn't hose it off but did use a big soapy sponge.

www.revo1.com/fjmudding
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

TeamChin said:
if there's to many people on the beach you may want to park it on the sandbar...

been there... done that. it's not as easy as it looks.

main computer is behind the passengers dash. secondary ECU is in the rear door. I think there's a third one hidden somewhere ....
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

I think dynamat has a heat shielded mat that can be used on the firewall and hood, It should keep it cool enough for dogs
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

Once I got on land I keep driving to keep it hot and burn off any water...the whole time I'm just waiting for it to start to sputter and shut down.
It's good to hear that your FJ survived this. It makes me happy to know that the new FJ is as capable (maybe more so) then my old 78 FJ40 when it comes to water fording. With that rig (on 35 inch SSRs) I regularly had water up to the hood line and it never skipped a beat.

As for the comment above, water damage to a motor is usually going to be a sudden, violent, stop. When you attempt to compress the uncompressible, the motor usually will lock and all sorts of bad things will happen, but it usually results in a bent rod and locked up motor.

For anyone that intends to do a lot of water crossing, I’d highly recommend figuring out how to do the following; 1. Secure the fan so it’s not splashing around (in the old 40s we used a strap to secure the fan in one place, and the fan clutch took care of the rest, you’ll have to figure out if something like this will work on the new FJ since it’s clutch is clearly different), 2. Extend all breathers up to a high point in the engine bay.

As for the actual crossing, there are some really important things to know.

1. Know the route! I can’t stress how important this is, as if you are unclear of what the line is before entering the water you can cause all sorts of extra problems. Ask someone that is with you, as they will most likely know how to get you across safely.

2. Secure your fan (see earlier discussion about the fan clutch)

3. Have a recovery plan before you get in the water. I was in CO on a wheeling trip and our group came across a Jeep dead in the middle of the water crossing. The group with the Jeep was unorganized and didn’t have a real recovery plan. When we got to the water crossing with our rigs we sort of took control of the situation and pulled the jeep to safety before things got much worse. As a result of being unorganized the Jeep was left in deep water for quite some time. Given that all of our cruisers sat quite a bit higher then the Jeep we were able to recover the vehicle and cross the river without any real drama. I always recommend attaching a strap to your recovery point BEFORE entering the water. If you are first to cross, use common sense and attach the strap to your rear recovery point. Coil the strap up and secure it to the spare tire carrier, your roof rack, or other point where it is easily accessible when the truck is under water.

4. Enter slow. Splashes look good for photos, but honestly in deep water the last thing you want to do is go fast enough to splash. Enter slow and deliberately and you’ll be in good shape.

5. Follow your bow wave. If you follow the last piece of advice, you’ll create a nice bow wave just in front of your bumper. Your pace should be set to follow this wave across the river. The idea here is to proceed slow and steady while keeping your nose in the low spot in the water just behind your bow wave.

6. Celebratory woot! When you get to the other side feel free to let out a “woot” as you’ve earned it. This is also a good time to change shorts for those that haven’t ever done a deep water crossing. :)

-Nathan
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

For anyone that intends to do a lot of water crossing, I’d highly recommend figuring out how to do the following; 1. Secure the fan so it’s not splashing around (in the old 40s we used a strap to secure the fan in one place, and the fan clutch took care of the rest, you’ll have to figure out if something like this will work on the new FJ since it’s clutch is clearly different), 2. Extend all breathers up to a high point in the engine bay.

-Nathan[/QUOTE]

Just curious...does anyone make an electric fan?? I know flexalite makes some for a few applications. That would solve step one plus give a few more ponies.
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

I know Toyota says that you can go up to 27" of water. One of the Toyota models at the Auto Show said you can't hose it out. This leads me to ask for those that plan on going swimming in the FJ, where are the items that are restricting higher forging or is it just a matter of bouyancy? If you added a snorkel, would it do any good? Are the FJ brains (electronics) mounted somewhere that the water would fry at 29"? What can be done to protect oneself from damaging a swimming FJ? How many vents would you have to extend to a higher location?

Just thought it was a different topic then what has been discussed thus far.

Under 29" .....FJ Cruiser
Over 29" ......boat. :)


Sorry...I couldn't resist!
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

Another tip for off roading (in general) is to buy some cheap "hip waders". Good for scouting water and mud. If you are in above your waist, its not worth getting in over your head!
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

another tip: avoid water as much as possible.

on an older non computer truck, all you care about is air intake and exhaust (usually).

these days, watching the water level in the cab and knowing where your ECU is, just adds to equation.

for me, if there is a water crossing, avoid it like the plague. or just dont go. if the water is taller than the tires, i know i risk something. hence my paranoia...

having fun is one thing. having to break down and then spending $$$$ to fix it just isnt fun...
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

another tip: avoid water as much as possible.
This has nothing to do with anything on fording, but shouldn't your location be written as N37*33' W122*3'? I take it you're using *=degrees meaning it should be next to the 37 & 122 and ' always stands for minutes when written in this format. Sorry, the sailor & A.D.D. in me just couldn't help it. Cheers.
 

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Re: River/Water Forging

Another good idea is to fill all electrical connections with a good dielelctric grease if possible, this will keep water out of the electronics if you do get in a little too deep.
 
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