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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

After reading abit around the forums I stumble upon the idea of pushing out my OEM Rock Rails with and idea taken from this thread Rock Rails

But i'm thinking on a different spin to this solution I do want the rock rails to still function agains rocks or tree roots, but I don't run into a lot of this trouble out here in Illinois. So this is my idea instead of just round washer spacers do a rectangle aluminum full size block spacer, except in the last part where the break line goes, look something like this:

The Aluminum block is an extruded rectangular tube with the following measures: 1.5"x3"x6" with a 1/4" thick wall. My question or the point where I need advise is with you engineers out there, is this set up strong enough?

This is the data from mcmaster carr on the aluminum

Alloy 6063
Material Ultra-Corrosion-Resistant Architectural Aluminum (Alloy 6063)
Shape Tubes
Tube Type Square/Rectangular
Finish/Coating Unpolished (Mill)
Tolerance Standard
Wall Thickness 1/4"
Height x Width 1-1/2" x 3"
System of Measurement Inch
Test Report Without Test Report
Hardness 60 Brinell
Application Structural Tubes
Specifications Met American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
ASTM Specification ASTM B221


Any input is welcome.

Nono

By the way I'm happy with the OEM rock rails just looking for a way to push them out if doable
 

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I am talking to my bud at work Monday. I am thinking that the weakest part might be the bolt or the area of the frame where the bolt screws into the internal nut. We will find out. I just don't know if I want to go 1" or 1 1/2" for the aluminum block. I think I will be using solid aluminum block. Maybe we will get this figured out.
Jax':wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds good, let me know the outcome. I'm thinking to go with the tube based on weight and $ i think going with blocks gets you to close to $100 +, so selling your stocks and using that plus the $100 buys you a set of trail gears.

Thanks for pitching in

Nono
 

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I'm also very curious about this...my sliders are my jack point for my hi-lift so they need to maintain their stoutness for the most part.
 

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O.K., I just crawled under my rig to make some measurments. Found out that my factory rock rails were made in Canada???? :mecry: And they only have 3 mounting brackets???:mecry: I also noticed that there isn't enough room to add a 1 1/2" spacer!!!!! :mecry: The distance from the mount bracket and the body is barely an inch!!! I don't think if you move the rails out more than that you will have to modify the mount or beat the heck out of the bottom of your rig!!!:rofl::flame:
So what is a person to do??????? Never fails that when someone gets a good idea, it never works for me! I hope that the other people in the other thread reads this, and looks and measures their space before buying blocks or spacers.........and I haven't even unscrewed a bolt yet, to see if I have
m8 or m10 bolts!!!
Jax':wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not good Opie,

I wont be able to make any progress on this for a couple of weeks my parents are in town visiting and my time is going to be devoted to them.

I'll look a bit more into this latter, thanks for posting.

Nono
 

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Sounds good, let me know the outcome. I'm thinking to go with the tube based on weight and $ i think going with blocks gets you to close to $100 +, so selling your stocks and using that plus the $100 buys you a set of trail gears.

Thanks for pitching in

Nono

I agree with this assessment. Check out Demellos rock rails...they sound exactly like the set of rails that you would like to have. He has been running some specials lately maybe he can help you out.

Doc
 

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Don't think this will be a good idea. The bolt will be longer and the will be more handle forces working on the welded nut in the frame when you do really need the rail.
Right now the nut is tight against the frame, little to no vertical movement possible. However add a spacer and now that bolt is no longer snug and has a possibly more vertical movement. 1/$" doesn't seem like much, but it will most likely allow larger forces on the welded nut and we all know those don't hold worth a crap.

This is the same principle of spacers vs adapters for hubs. Even with longer lugs, the spacer allows for movement and in a lot of case can cause the lug to break and the wheel goes flying. The adapter has its own nut that allows it to bolt flush and the wheel is bolted to it, less possible movement and likely hood to fail.

You would almost be better off making a rail adapter. Bolt that to the frame and then bolt the rails to the adapter.

Who knows, I may be wrong and 1/4" might not be an issue, but if it were my rig, I wouldn't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Al, Doc

Thanks for the input this is not something that I was ready to go buy and do next week or anything like that hahahaha, just running around with the idea trying to see if it was feasible or even smart.
 

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Its worth it to just buy something like the all-pros...After having rock rails with the bump out at the rear, I would never use anything else. Its already protected the FJ from about a dozen accidents...Its taken out 3 front bumpers, and actually knocked over 4 different 'moto conchos', which are these dudes on 125cc scooters that act as kamakaze taxi drivers...Lol. Its pretty bad, but its saved me from getting god knows how much damage on my side panels. I've had to re-paint/touch up mine quite a bit already, another reason not to buy the powder coated ones, they tend to get f'd up really quickly and spray paint takes seconds to repair...
 

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wouldn't putting a spacer be the same as the spacers they put on for rims? I think that a tire coming off or the stress that wheeling, towing and everyday use would be less than adding some grade 8 bolts and an 1.5" spacer on the sliders. If tightened properly it should be good.
 
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