Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Roof top lighting and wiring is always a popular subject so I thought I would show you my approach. I was not interested in running the wires down the outside of the A pillar or on the outside in the rear so drilling a hole in the roof was the choice for me. I decided to run the wiring up through the “foot” for mounting the front part of the OEM Rack Tube.

THIS IS ONLY A SUGGESTION, HOW YOU WIRE YOUR OWN LIGHTING IS COMPLETEY UP TO YOU AND IS SOLEY YOUR RESPONSIBILITY

How you wire up your lights and switches is up to you. I want to have a relay on each light circuit, 4 for me. Front lights, Back up lights, and side lights on both sides. A couple of things were important to me regarding placement of components. I wanted them inside the cabin as opposed to under the hood and I wanted them all located in one place and easy to access.

I had originally mounted a Painless Wiring 7 Circuit fuse block to the firewall on the inside just to the left of the steering column.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/general-discussion/36493-adding-fuse-block.html

This was OK for just the fuse block but now I would be adding a Bus Bar and 4 relays to the mix and did not want to deal with the sound insulation material with all those items. I remembered seeing a thread that Shadow Warrior did about mounting a fuse block and he fabbed up a mounting plate ( very cool ) so I adopted that route. Thanks for the idea Shadow.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-12v-fuse-block-accessory-install-w-pics.html

As you can see in the photos I was able to mount the fuse block, Buss Bar, and 4 relays to the mounting plate. The plate mounts to the extra long brake frame mounting bolts using two 6mm nyloc nuts. I also ran a grounding wire from one of those bolts to the fuse block, this is the ground that allows the 4 switched circuits on the fuse block to activate via the relay on the fuse block.

Power for the 4 roof top light circuits will be taken from the Buss Bar on the mounting plate. Power to the Buss Bar will come directly from the battery via a #8 wire run through the firewall with a 40 AMP fuse in line. All 4 circuits will also have an in line fuse. Switch power will come from the Painless Wiring Fuse Block. A ground wire will also be run directly from the battery to the Buss Bar.

I pulled the headliner down according to the instructions Toyota puts out for installing their Air Dam and lights. Take your time with this and make sure to put something like a towel between the rear plastic and the headliner so the headliner does not get damaged. The headliner can kink without a lot of effort so be careful.

C = Center
1.Measure the location of the C of the down tube in relation to the C of the foot bolts
2.Transfer that C location to the inside of the roof.
3.Remove 2 foot bolts, be careful not to spin Rivnuts inside of roof
4.Losten & remove cap screw up inside foot that holds foot to down tube
5.Remove foot and foot gasket from down tube
6.Remove cross piece that cap screw threaded into holding foot too down tube
7.Drill 1 1/8 hole in roof (yeah it scared the hell out of me too)
8.Drill 1 1/8 hole in side of rack tube
9.Debur both holes
10. Install Grommets in both holes, Advanced Auto, DORMAN products #80191
11.Drill out 7/8” holes in both the foot and the foot gasket
12.Re attach foot and gasket to down tube
13.Run wire loom through side of rack tube and down through hole in roof
14.Pull as much wire down through roof as you think you’ll need, then pull another foot
15.Bend the wire loom up close to the roof and toward the front of the vehicle
16.Wire tie wire loom to top of A pillar at roof line, there are a couple holes already there
17.Run wire loom down the front of the A Pillar in front of existing wires
18.Wire tie the loom to existing wires
19.Fish wire loom down beside dash and into the kick panel area
20.Apply silicone sealant under foot gasket and mounting bolt heads (Optional)
21.Re attach foot to roof, once again be careful with rivnuts, they spin rather easy
22.Re install headliner and related parts
23.Wire up roof lights as desired
24.Hook up switching as desired

I pulled power for 4 circuits, grounds for 4 circuits and 3 extra wires because I am not going through this again!!!

I hope that this helps those of you that want to add some roof lighting to your rigs. If you want to make a mounting plate as shown send me a PM and I can either FAX a template over to you or arrange to mail one. Good luck :)

Stan
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)

· Registered
Joined
·
2,009 Posts
Nice write-up! Thanks!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Nice! Great info I hope to get my Hellas on the roof next Tuesday!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Did you sort out what switches you are going to use?
Yeah I am going to go with the OEM Toyota FJ Switch I am just waiting to see if anyone can find the part number for the FJ switch that comes with the Air Dam kit because it has the picture of roof under...that would be nice to have for my roof lights...

I am looking to see if any one can do custom switches as well...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I am going to go with the OEM Toyota FJ Switch I am just waiting to see if anyone can find the part number for the FJ switch that comes with the Air Dam kit because it has the picture of roof under...that would be nice to have for my roof lights...

I am looking to see if any one can do custom switches as well...
Custom switches? or off the shelf switches and custom wiring? I put PIAA lights on the roof and had to wire them myself as the stock harness that comes with the PIAA lights does not extend that far. It is pretty straight forward wiring.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Custom switches? or off the shelf switches and custom wiring? I put PIAA lights on the roof and had to wire them myself as the stock harness that comes with the PIAA lights does not extend that far. It is pretty straight forward wiring.
I am using the Hella wiring harness and then soldering what ever more wire I will need to a fuse and relay box to a dual battery kit, controlled with OEM FJ Aux Switches...

I am going to take a bunch of picture and post ever thing up... I am hoping to have all the parts in by next week so I can start Friday!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
I like everything abut this installation - no wires whatsoever, nor any sort of adapter or plumbing fixture in-sight anywhere. This is how I'll do my lights, I think.

Couple of questions:

1. Are you using 4 relays, one for EACH LIGHT? I believe that the lights I want (the KC Daylighters) have a relay for each pair of lights. I will wire mine up using two switches, one for each pair of lights, with one switch controlling the outer lamps (pointed for wide spread) and the other the inner pair (aimed for distance in a pencil-beam pattern). In my head, this seems like it will work fine - do you see a problem with this setup?

Also, for the relay trigger voltage, is that pre-wired in the lamps' harnesses, or did you just run a simple secondary positive from the battery or a SWITCHED fuse in the panel, driven by a cabin switch? I'm torn - part of me likes the idea that the lamps cannot accidentally be left on with the key out of the car, but another part of me winders if I'd ever need to run the lights with the key out. Hmmmmm...

2. I'll check into that Blue Marine fuse block - nice find. In the past, I've just used a simple, covered 4-fuse blade block for my positives, and then just used a large-gauge common ground. However, it looks like the Blue Marine one has one master positive and one master negative, with 6 fused circuits in-between... That's nice if so - easier to deal with. Is this how its really configured?

3. Are those roof liner removal instructions on-line someplace? I've been Googling, but I'm not finding them.

Thanks!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I like everything abut this installation - no wires whatsoever, nor any sort of adapter or plumbing fixture in-sight anywhere. This is how I'll do my lights, I think.

Couple of questions:

1. Are you using 4 relays, one for EACH LIGHT? I believe that the lights I want (the KC Daylighters) have a relay for each pair of lights. I will wire mine up using two switches, one for each pair of lights, with one switch controlling the outer lamps (pointed for wide spread) and the other the inner pair (aimed for distance in a pencil-beam pattern). In my head, this seems like it will work fine - do you see a problem with this setup?

Also, for the relay trigger voltage, is that pre-wired in the lamps' harnesses, or did you just run a simple secondary positive from the battery or a SWITCHED fuse in the panel, driven by a cabin switch? I'm torn - part of me likes the idea that the lamps cannot accidentally be left on with the key out of the car, but another part of me winders if I'd ever need to run the lights with the key out. Hmmmmm...

2. I'll check into that Blue Marine fuse block - nice find. In the past, I've just used a simple, covered 4-fuse blade block for my positives, and then just used a large-gauge common ground. However, it looks like the Blue Marine one has one master positive and one master negative, with 6 fused circuits in-between... That's nice if so - easier to deal with. Is this how its really configured?

3. Are those roof liner removal instructions on-line someplace? I've been Googling, but I'm not finding them.

Thanks!!
1. I used a total of 4 relays. One for the front PIAA lights(2), one for the rear lights (2), one for right rack light (1) and one for left rack light(1)

2. I used a "Circuit Boss" 7 circuit fuse block from Painless Wiring. It has 4 switched circuits and 3 constant circuits. I chose to activate the switches/relays with a switched circuit so I will not leave the lights on accidentally.

To power the lights I ran a 8 gauge wire directly from the battery to a buss bar along with a pair oaf 12 gauge ground wires directly from the battery to the buss bar. Power was then run from the bus bar through an in line fuse, to the relay then on to the lights, ground was run from the buss bar to the lights. I also put a 40 AMP fuse in the 6 gauge wire between the battery and the buss bar

3.I think I have a PDF of the headliner removal. If I do I will attach it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
I was looking at that Circuit Boss thing in another post... It just looks like 2 Autozone 4-fuse blocks mated together with a relay affixed to the bottom. No cover even. Or am I thinking of something else?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was looking at that Circuit Boss thing in another post... It just looks like 2 Autozone 4-fuse blocks mated together with a relay affixed to the bottom. No cover even. Or am I thinking of something else?
LOL yes that would be the one. There is no cover on it and the wiring comes out of it from the rear so nothing to really hit and short out. I purchased mine at Advanced Auto, they matched Summit's price.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,652 Posts
Any word on the OEM install guide for the roof/airdam mount lights? Just wondering how Toyota would run wire from the roof. Thanks.
See attachment below
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: azian_advanced

· Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
6,549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,643 Posts
Has anyone done a light install thats clean on ARB full size rack?
I have a pair of Hella's for the front and would like to add some back-up lights also.
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top